Thread: Modern Vehicles and Their Modern Problems

Originally Posted by tac a1

Get rid of the fucking thing. Too much stress

Buy a Corolla.

Eventually that's the plan but I'll be buying a Camry instead. I drove a 96 Camry for 12 years, I miss driving that car, still got it parked up in the garage, can't justify the money I'd need to spend to get it road worthy again, better for parts to keep another Camry in better condition road worthy for 12 years.

Originally Posted by Three O'Three

2013, mk4?, 6 speed auto power shift, 290k on clock, and no adblue. Yeah I know I should run a proper scan tool on it to see what's really going on but I can't get it to a garage without it going into limp mode, problem with living rural.

Ok so that should be the 148/150 hp RHH motor running delphi DCM 3.5 injection.
It's actually a pretty good engine and that injection version doesn't create a lot DPF issues. Having said that at 290k there will a reasonable amount of ash load in the dpf so the time between regens will be shorter.
Re the p2002 code, you will need to get it on some gear that can at least read the live values from differential pressure sensor. The value at idle will usually be some where from 0-10 mBar and at WOT stationary 65-120 mBar on a functional but aged dpf with is engine.
If the value is not changing from 0 bar the ecu will log a code as there will always be some rise, even on a brand new part, due to the nature of the core . Given that you've seen the core (and I'm assuming that there wasn't a big hole drilled down the middle...) and that there is unlikely to be a fist-sized hole in the exhaust upstream from the dpf, the most likely culprit is a failure of the dpf sensor.
If there is a high sensor value (ie >250 mBar at WOT stationary) this is pointing to a blocked dpf. A static regen will improve this but as the accumulated ash load can not be burnt out of a dpf the time/distance to the next regen will be relatively short. Only an off vehicle professional clean will get rid of that ash properly.

So here is the plan forward:
Find a real diag tool and someone who knows how to use it and verify the DPF sensor operation.
If it's fucked then replace it, verify operation, clear codes, perform static regen and confirm pressure sensor values after regen. If that's all good you then change the oil and filter and drive off in to the sunset.

Originally Posted by threefootsix

Ok so that should be the 148/150 hp RHH motor running delphi DCM 3.5 injection.
It's actually a pretty good engine and that injection version doesn't create a lot DPF issues. Having said that at 290k there will a reasonable amount of ash load in the dpf so the time between regens will be shorter.
Re the p2002 code, you will need to get it on some gear that can at least read the live values from differential pressure sensor. The value at idle will usually be some where from 0-10 mBar and at WOT stationary 65-120 mBar on a functional but aged dpf with is engine.
If the value is not changing from 0 bar the ecu will log a code as there will always be some rise, even on a brand new part, due to the nature of the core . Given that you've seen the core (and I'm assuming that there wasn't a big hole drilled down the middle...) and that there is unlikely to be a fist-sized hole in the exhaust upstream from the dpf, the most likely culprit is a failure of the dpf sensor.
If there is a high sensor value (ie >250 mBar at WOT stationary) this is pointing to a blocked dpf. A static regen will improve this but as the accumulated ash load can not be burnt out of a dpf the time/distance to the next regen will be relatively short. Only an off vehicle professional clean will get rid of that ash properly.

So here is the plan forward:
Find a real diag tool and someone who knows how to use it and verify the DPF sensor operation.
If it's fucked then replace it, verify operation, clear codes, perform static regen and confirm pressure sensor values after regen. If that's all good you then change the oil and filter and drive off in to the sunset.

Thanks for that. Yeah I did look inside the dpf and there are no big holes that I could see, when I flush it out with water it flowed reasonably freely, more so from back out the front than front out the back.
I did my own half ass air pressure test by blocking from front of the dpf with my hand and pumping air into the filter with a air gun through the front temp sensor hole, made sure the air was sealing the hole. I could feel pressure building up the filter and air was flowing freely out the back. No idea what the pressure inside was.
About to order a dpf sensor off trademe for $67, Fingers cross this solves the problem long enough to sell it

Daft question is it a split hose? Had that was hard to diagnose had a sensor either side of hose and as soon as engine temp rose split opened up and put the Ute into limp mode. Hose was at back of engine and split was on the back too.

Originally Posted by Happy Jack

Daft question is it a split hose? Had that was hard to diagnose had a sensor either side of hose and as soon as engine temp rose split opened up and put the Ute into limp mode. Hose was at back of engine and split was on the back too.

Do you mean the dpf pressure sensor hose? I replaced those

I recon shoot it with your three O'Three youll feel so much better.....put the thing out of its misery

Originally Posted by blip

I recon shoot it with your three O'Three youll feel so much better.....put the thing out of its misery

Don't tempt me. I was about to take my brothers advice and send it to the wreckers

My old mondeo shit out after 6 years .the gearbox are notorious for failing in the earlier models.. they still go for 1000 plus for a gearbox