Modern Vehicles and Their Modern Problems

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Originally Posted by No.3

Is it raising the idle at all? Would suggest that the brake pedal is not something that would be related to what you've done - I would also suggest that the fact the DPF was full of crud and you were able to flush it would suggest that it's not effectively doing the regen.

Are you able to get the differential pressure sensor's reading with your scan tool? It seems to me that it isn't playing the game?

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Idle seems normal, around 800rpm. Unfortunately my tool doesn't read the dps, its likely the culprit but at $250-300 I don't want to replace it only to find out it wasn't the problem. The trouble with living in the country is mechanics with proper scan tools are miles away.

I think you'll need to correctly diagnose this somehow - either get hold of a tool to do it (Forscan lite and a OBDLink bluetooth adapter or some other tool that will read the DPF sensor) or take it to someone to get it diagnosed. You're flying blind at this point - and you could end up in the situation of a couple of issues with no real idea if you've created a bigger issue or you are simply chasing your tail.

Welcome to the world of emissions control electronics... When you had the DPF out, did you check the hoses and pipes for the pressure sensor were all clear and able to work?

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Originally Posted by No.3

I think you'll need to correctly diagnose this somehow - either get hold of a tool to do it (Forscan lite and a OBDLink bluetooth adapter or some other tool that will read the DPF sensor) or take it to someone to get it diagnosed. You're flying blind at this point - and you could end up in the situation of a couple of issues with no real idea if you've created a bigger issue or you are simply chasing your tail.

Welcome to the world of emissions control electronics... When you had the DPF out, did you check the hoses and pipes for the pressure sensor were all clear and able to work?

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hoses where replaced

Mite be a good time to stop looking at the end result ie the exhaust and blaming the dpf and start at the beginning
If you have lots of burn offs it’s 1 not enough air ,2 to much fuel or 3 burns are being stopped due to a parameter not being met

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Originally Posted by longrange308

Mite be a good time to stop looking at the end result ie the exhaust and blaming the dpf and start at the beginning
If you have lots of burn offs it’s 1 not enough air ,2 to much fuel or 3 burns are being stopped due to a parameter not being met

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"burns are being stopped due to a parameter not being met" What do you mean?
Air filter has been replaced and I'm no expert but MAF reading on scanner seems more than sufficient. Don't about fuel though. Tomorrow I'll run the scan tool, take screen shots and post images on here.

The computer is looking for information that it isn't getting, and as a result is stopping the regen from running to completion.

Likely scenarios that would cause this include a MAF sensor issue making the computer think the air/fuel mix is not correct, a DPF differential pressure sensor not functioning (reading 0.0Kpa across) again making the computer think all is not well, an engine management or timing sensor not operating, failed injection or diesel handling component, wiring or connection issue, computer module failure, or an earthing or battery or charge issue...

So - what he's saying is that you have seen the issue with the DPF but that is likely a symptom of the problem that is causing it. If you don't get it correctly diagnosed and start chucking parts at it you don't know if you are making the issue worse, better, or just plain wasting time effort and money.

the oils not too full is it?

Or turbo bearing or seal on the way out, crank case vent system not playing the game, EGR system not playing, burnt valve - there are a heap of issues that can cause this to happen with the DPF setups and the irony is that at the moment, the emissions reduction kit has set up a situation that the thing is creating many times the emissions that an engine without all that crap is making. Joy...

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Originally Posted by No.3

The computer is looking for information that it isn't getting, and as a result is stopping the regen from running to completion.

Likely scenarios that would cause this include a MAF sensor issue making the computer think the air/fuel mix is not correct, a DPF differential pressure sensor not functioning (reading 0.0Kpa across) again making the computer think all is not well, an engine management or timing sensor not operating, failed injection or diesel handling component, wiring or connection issue, computer module failure, or an earthing or battery or charge issue...

So - what he's saying is that you have seen the issue with the DPF but that is likely a symptom of the problem that is causing it. If you don't get it correctly diagnosed and start chucking parts at it you don't know if you are making the issue worse, better, or just plain wasting time effort and money.

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What else can your scan tool scrape off the OBDII port and live feeds?

In Forscan Lite on Android I've got a heap more I can pull off, fuel rail pressure desired, fuel rail pressure actual, fuel rail pressure sender output mV, all temps, all pressures, TP, live error count, voltages, most sensors crank and cam so you can check that they are functioning correctly etc etc.

The ones you do need are EGR and DPF for a start.

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Originally Posted by No.3

What else can your scan tool scrape off the OBDII port and live feeds?

In Forscan Lite on Android I've got a heap more I can pull off, fuel rail pressure desired, fuel rail pressure actual, fuel rail pressure sender output mV, all temps, all pressures, TP, live error count, voltages, most sensors crank and cam so you can check that they are functioning correctly etc etc.

The ones you do need are EGR and DPF for a start.

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Thats the best it can do unfortunately

Yeah you can't see enough to be much use off that. You'll need to get it into someone who's got the right kit or beg/borrow a better tool and have a crack yourself. Once you've found what's causing it you'll be able to correct the issue but until you know you're flying blind.

Yeah, you're going to need a tool that gives you desired/reference data vs what's happening live and ideally one that gives you snapshot data logged with the fault code.
What year is this Mondeo mate, MK4, MK 5?
Is she manual, DCT (powershift) or proper auto trans (6/8 speed)? Rough idea of Km's on it? Is it running adblue?

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Originally Posted by threefootsix

Yeah, you're going to need a tool that gives you desired/reference data vs what's happening live and ideally one that gives you snapshot data logged with the fault code.
What year is this Mondeo mate, MK4, MK 5?
Is she manual, DCT (powershift) or proper auto trans (6/8 speed)? Rough idea of Km's on it? Is it running adblue?

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2013, mk4?, 6 speed auto power shift, 290k on clock, and no adblue. Yeah I know I should run a proper scan tool on it to see what's really going on but I can't get it to a garage without it going into limp mode, problem with living rural.

Get rid of the fucking thing. Too much stress

Buy a Corolla.