Thread: MQ Triton diff swap

Originally Posted by Delphus

Yeah it all looks pretty straight forward. The only thin gf I don’t really know how to do is disconnect the brake lines. I would assume I need to bleed the brakes once done? I don’t have any jack stands either so would need to get some of them too. I suppose that’s something I should have anyway.

Normally there is a compression union at the place where the steel brake pipe meets the rubber hose which is between the chassis pipe and the diff to allow the diff to articulate. Grab each hex and carefully unscrew. If you get a plastic hose clamp you can prevent fluid loss and air getting into the system... There is a bleeder nipple at each wheel, you can get a cheap and cheerful "one man" bleeder kit from the auto parts outfits, or a length of surgical tubing pushed onto the nipple and looped up then into a plastic bottle. When bleeding, start furthest away from the booster and master cylinder (usually left rear) and push fluid through until no bubbles in the surgical tubing (don't let the reservoir get empty or you have to start again). Repeat for each corner getting closer to the front right and when you get all the bubbles out of the front right you should be all bled. Jack stands are the ideal, but a solid section of good tree trunk (50 or 60cm diameter or so and two the same height and high enough to hold everything off the ground) will be fine with a pad for the chassis to sit on. They need to be flat and straight up and down. Concrete blocks are a no-go, steel drums are a dumb idea too.