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Any resident panel beaters: how easy does this look to fix? Not really too concerned about the dent except that it may encourage extra attention at WOFs, there's potentially some rust in there (see the yellow bog) and it's pulled open the seam in the sill so shit's going to get in there and accelerate rust
yes I'm getting some rock sliders...
https://i.imgur.com/Pg7daNk.jpg
Was wondering about the panel damage in your video....
some places would fail that at a warrant (depth of crease and location right where the the quarter joins the sill especially if its pulled the spot welds)... other places would pass it thats the inconsistency of warrant of fitness stations around the country. at the very least get some primer on it the reseal the joint with a non acetone based sealer (urethane adhesive sealer is best)and get some top coat on it . to fix it properly you really need access to the right tools to pull the dent out .
it'll buff out
No problem for a WOF as the vehicle has a full chassis.
not a panel beater but sure restored a few in my time
its close to a seam, its not on a removable panel (door etc), so it aint going to be a quick fix.
ok, its not load bearing so no issue with wof unless they see the amount of "bog"
if you want to DIY it. you need to use a pull hammer (or make one). basically you screw in a self tapper and impact outwards. dont try and do it in one spot , it will tale multiple places and pulls. i do suggest you strip the entire area first to see how much metal you have to play with
I have a 78 series L Cruiser/Prado but not too familiar with the 73 series, but is there an internal panel you can remove and gain access to the dent to push/hammer it out from the inside?
Good call, I hadn’t thought about it much. there’s a wee panel in there that I can unbolt, maybe it will give me access to the back of the damage. Will have a lookQuote:
Originally Posted by ROKTOY
I did the same to both my pass. doors before building rock sliders, they have saved my doors several times since. Well worth the investment if you are in the rocks on a regular basis.Quote:
Originally Posted by gimp
Don’t want to pop ya bubble butQuote:
Originally Posted by kokako
https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt....frontal-impact
Have a wee read
The damage shown is not in any structural areas shown in your link.Quote:
Originally Posted by longrange308
Roger got it , so not near a body mount, not near a “b” pillar , not near a sill, not near a lower seatbelt mount or near a lower seat mountQuote:
Originally Posted by veitnamcam
Sweet grab the bog gimp she’s right :pacman:
technically the point where the quarter is spotwelded to the sill is considered a structural point as it forms part of the structural integrity of the passenger cabin the fact that it has an independent chassis is irrelvent. a wof inspector could deem it weakened the structure to make it unsafe in an impact in that area of the vehicle allowing objects to enter the cabin . ive been doing this for over 30 years and have seen things pass that should fail and things fail that should pass ..... the most inconsistent wof stations are the VTNZ ones i would never take a vehicle to them (mostly failed mechanics who couldnt make it in the real world). DONT drill holes in it and pull it with a screw puller ....when you bog it the bog will absorb any moisture from inside and start to bubble and rust alot worse than it is now , modern bog is designed to stick to paint . if you can get inside it it better to push it out then scuff the paint up and bog it the bog needs to be sealed off from the air as it will absorb moisture and begin the rust process.
Good war/character wound.
I use to knock them out of my trucks from the inside when access allows with a small sand bag (like your thlr radar bag) and a piece of wood sanded to a bull nose profile and a heat gun on the outside and get it warm as possible so paint won't crack when reshaping, thenpunch it out via hammer, wood, sandbag.
The sand bag should help you keep a smoother surface without tooling marks/ dimples on the skin.