Thread: Replacement ute advice

I'm thinking of upgrading my ute. Currently have a 2005 Mazda bounty with 275k on the clock. Doesn't miss a beat and drives great. I brought this ute just to see if I'd actually get use out of one and yes I use it a lot. So I've confirmed the use case and thinking it might be time for something a bit more modern but I don't want to sell a reliable ute and get a lemon.
I basically only use the ute for hunting but still mostly on road with a bit of sedate 4x4 driving at destination. Also often take it on holiday with kayaks on the roof rack.
Budget is about 25k and currently quite like the triton around 2017/2018 models. No fixed opinion on auto or manual current ute is manual but drive autos off road for work often and they are equal in terms of pluses and minuses to me.
I not a "ute guy" so no fixed ideas on brand but the later model hiluxes I have driven have awfully harsh rides on road compared to other brands I've driven.
What do you reckon/ what's the advice?

2015 hilux with the 3.0L d4d engine and auto transmission.

2000 to 2004 hilux 4wd d/cab

You'll get a lot of Hilux fanboi's chiming in, then you'll get the next guy that has an opinion on another brand - the best bit of advice I can give you is 'buy the vehicle not the story'. If you find a Hilux that is low k's, looks immaculate, ticks all the boxes on service history and hasn't been flogged buy it and you'll likely be happy. But, a lot of other jokers are looking for the same thing and everyone who is selling one seems to think their one was poo'd in by Barry Crump himself and that makes it worth an extra 10K...

I've been in just about every brand ute on the market at one stage or another and let me confirm, all have problems and all are as reliable as each other which is to say if you service it, don't make it swim, don't bounce it off everything and don't treat it like a formula 3 practice hack chances are you will get a good run. You do get the odd weird failure, my ranger sh1tting the PCM module which fried a lot of other electronics is a case in point for this. That isn't a Ford failure, thats a Bosch supplied part taking a lot of other gear out and Bosch supply gear for a lot of manufacturers.

As far as buying advice - test drive everything. As much as you can get your paws on, and focus on things like driver vis, comfort, in cab features like vents and cup holders and sunglass and key pockets, etc etc. Try the spare wheel mechanism, some are just ugly (Ranger and BT50 of the same years - this is you!). Put the normal load you'll be carrying in it (sandbags?) and see how it is at that (some utes are set up for empty loaded state assuming you'll be driving in a city and not a full axle weights so they just sit on the bump stops).

When you nail down what you like and what you don't, look at servicing and tyre costs for those on your list then have a chat to the service guy you'll be using (for second hand find a decent independent or non-dealer guy as they won't be looking to half arse any warranty repairs on you). Talk to the service people, and see what they think, they will know what they see coming up all the time and what costs at what mileage (timing belt v timing chain, different models of trans servicing, DPF and EGR delete etc etc). Once you've got that far, start looking for the ute that fit's your billing and money. When you find one, get a pre purchase inspection done on the mechanicals - including operating diagnostics for the engine running under load showing things like injector duty cycles, common rail pressure actual vs commanded and the turbo and manifold pressures. Common rail diesels start showing injector wear at about 125,000Km's typically and the modern waterblaster style common rail injector pumps can start to go at about the same time. Budget 8-10K for this work depending on model, some a little less some a little more and it's really preventative rather than repair if you are looking at the performance and don't let it fail on you.

There are model specific failures, example on the 3.2L BT50 and ranger engines the oil pump is a vane type that self limits for flow and if that fails (wane snapping or getting pinched/dislodged) it destroys the engine instantly (stops the timing chain). It sames about 0.75Kw of power so helps fuel consumption figures - awesome.

Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

2000 to 2004 hilux 4wd d/cab

This guys a smart guy, listen to him

Originally Posted by dvk-kp

This guys a smart guy, listen to him

Not really, 20plus years hard work and all with “low ks” his current vehicle is same if not a better option

The modern ones 16 or 17 onward have all manner of emission control doohickies and sensors that can playup and cut engine power. Something to be aware of

Stick with what you've got, just keep replacing g the glow plugs and keep the radiator clean.

Otherwise a low km pre 2016 isuzu dmax, the 4jj1 motors are about as robust as they come. After 2016 they have turbo and dpf issues.

But as I said, keep what you ha e and run it into the ground.

Some models of those hiluxs have the most shit handbrake you can get. Bit dissapointing for an otherwise good wagon

Originally Posted by Savage1

Stick with what you've got, just keep replacing g the glow plugs and keep the radiator clean.

Otherwise a low km pre 2016 isuzu dmax, the 4jj1 motors are about as robust as they come. After 2016 they have turbo and dpf issues.

But as I said, keep what you ha e and run it into the ground.

There is a lot of sense in this, "the enemy you know..." in keeping what you have if it's doing the mahi for you. I'm not so sure about the pre 2016 Dmax, engines are pretty robust but the transmissions and other driveline components can give problems and aren't that cheap to fix. As I mentioned though, every brand/model has it's weak points - none are perfect and all are built to a price cheaper than what they sell for new! Buy the vehicle and not the story.

Originally Posted by Savage1

Stick with what you've got, just keep replacing g the glow plugs and keep the radiator clean.

Otherwise a low km pre 2016 isuzu dmax, the 4jj1 motors are about as robust as they come. After 2016 they have turbo and dpf issues.

But as I said, keep what you ha e and run it into the ground.

My thoughts too.
At 270 km it's probably still got a lot of life in it.
New vehicles appear to be a lottery now days.
Talking with a guy who sources fleets for companies, Isuzu and Mitsi are the pick.
That will probably change with Isuzu dropping to toy motors.

Originally Posted by 7mmwsm

My thoughts too.
At 270 km it's probably still got a lot of life in it.
New vehicles appear to be a lottery now days.
Talking with a guy who sources fleets for companies, Isuzu and Mitsi are the pick.
That will probably change with Isuzu dropping to toy motors.

They factor in a few things over and above what the average punter does though in all fairness, including fleet bulk-purchase discounts and supply timings which can make a significant difference to their expenditure and financial side.

I'm no expert when it comes to which ute to buy however another thing to be factored in is if you do need to replace parts, what are the cost of those parts and are they likely to be in the country when required.
Mitsi parts are generally the most expensive out of all the Jap brands and usually available, Toyota and Mazda are usually very well priced and easy to get, Holden and Isuzu can be on the pricier side and sometimes need to come in from overseas meaning a few weeks delay. Ford are not too bad overall.
This is very general and in most cases parts are usually available, some parts do have to come from overseas which can take anywhere from 2 wks up to 16 wks in some cases.

Another thought.
A 2005 Bounty is less likely to "walk" from a road end while you are away hunting than a late model one is.

Originally Posted by blip

Some models of those hiluxs have the most shit handbrake you can get. Bit dissapointing for an otherwise good wagon

Yep mine was shit as, replaced everything (even down the the clips and little springs) with a kit from Oz, found a seized bellcrank lever while doing it. It’s mint now.