Thread: Rules for building your own ute deck?

I'm replacing my trusty old Courier soonish, most of the utes for sale nowadays are wellsides, and I want another flatdeck.
Can anyone point me in the right direction for the rules and regs of building your own deck? Mainly interested in how much overhang I'm allowed, width etc.
I'll be getting a 4 door so will be a shorter deck..so keen to make it a decent, sensible size if allowed.
Or buy a secondhand deck and modify..steel seems to be a hell of a price now.
Cheers

Virm is online
But in a nutshell no more than 100 wider than body each side
No sharp shit use ya head
You will never exceed the other dimensions so don’t worry about that
Make sure bob the welder knows how to weld and ya good to go
Other usual things like mud flaps ,lights etc

Originally Posted by longrange308

Virm is online
But in a nutshell no more than 100 wider than body each side
No sharp shit use ya head
You will never exceed the other dimensions so don’t worry about that
Make sure bob the welder knows how to weld and ya good to go
Other usual things like mud flaps ,lights etc

Sweet thanks, it was the width I was interested in mainly so good to know.
I've built a couple of trailers etc and they have lasted years so my welding can't be too bad...lol
cheers

I went down this road a while ago and there are plenty of secondhand decks about at very reasonable prices (like less than materials cheap, mine had a scruffy diesel soaked deck but was only $500). The one I got needed two brackets welded on and was good to go, the lights even plugged right in and I've yet to replace a bulb.

Just a thought . . . .

Originally Posted by Tentman

I went down this road a while ago and there are plenty of secondhand decks about at very reasonable prices (like less than materials cheap, mine had a scruffy diesel soaked deck but was only $500). The one I got needed two brackets welded on and was good to go, the lights even plugged right in and I've yet to replace a bulb.

Just a thought . . . .

This is exactly what I'm doing with the 60 series use chop I'm building, picked up a tidy galvanized deck for less than $500 including genuine narva lights and even a fuel filler neck and fuel cap. Sure it'll need a few mods but much cheaper than building scratch.

Main thing to consider or factor into the price is all the sensors the new utes have,lane assistance, park assistance reversing cameras etc that you have to put back on and if you replace any they need to be programmed to the ute

https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/s..._Threshold.pdf

Have a look around for one that came off a similar model, how much is your time worth (even if you have to adjust the front angles and polish a few sharp corners...). Steel is dear at the mo, welding consumables even more so. Bloody near cheaper to build out of Ali than galv one too! Sandblast and paint is cheaper...

I probably won't be buying anything newer than 2015.too bloody expensive

Thank You stug