Santa Fe heater issue

Hey team.
Just wondering if there are any mechanics that might be able to assist with their knowledge.

I have a 2012 Hyundai Santa Fe with dual heaters (passenger/driver). The driver side works perfectly, but the passenger only blows cold. It’s the whole left side of the car, when you defog the windscreen there is a line right down the middle. The car still changes between feet/face/windscreen, just blows cold.

My research told me that it is the blend door actuator that is faulty. I bought a new one as that seemed the most likely culprit. I took the dash apart and tested the actuator in place. Frustratingly seems to be doing what it should. It moves up and down as the temperature dial is changed. I have not installed the new one as I want to be able to take it back.

My next thought would be to flush the heater core, but even if that is partially blocked I don’t see how it would stop the half exactly?

Coolant is 3/4 full. Engine temp is normal, and the car has no other issues.

There is a ticking noise under the dash when the windscreen defog is selected, but it has done that since we have owned the car (5years) defog has always worked and still does (drivers side)

Anyone have any thoughts on what I could try next? I will take it to the mechanic if I have to, but trying to sort it myself first if I can. Save some coin.

Check the “door” or gate that allows hot air to enter that side

The stainless pin will be sliding inside the door and not moving it

Or the clip has fallen off the actuating cable

Keep looking, you will find it

Don’t reassemble u til you can feel hot air where it should be


Most times it’s a kids toy, ice block stick, library card, sticky lolly, old windscreen glass, eucalyptus leaf, supermarket voucher that’s jammed in the wrong place

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

Check the “door” or gate that allows hot air to enter that side

The stainless pin will be sliding inside the door and not moving it

Or the clip has fallen off the actuating cable

Keep looking, you will find it

Don’t reassemble u til you can feel hot air where it should be


Most times it’s a kids toy, ice block stick, library card, sticky lolly, old windscreen glass, eucalyptus leaf, supermarket voucher that’s jammed in the wrong place

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Perfect thanks mate. I assume I’ll need to take out the whole centre console(radio etc) to get access

I’ll get stuck in when my wife doesn’t need the car for a good few hours :)

My truck is the same. You can see the actuator moving the pivot that the hot/cold door rotates about, but it just stays cold. Most probably as above, a clip or something has come astray and the door inside the plastic box isn't actually moving.

Trouble is, its a rip the entire dash out, plus the enormous tangle of air con and ducting plumbing just to get to the offending part......

So I just leave a puffer jacket in the truck for winter driving:omg:

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Originally Posted by XR500

My truck is the same. You can see the actuator moving the pivot that the hot/cold door rotates about, but it just stays cold. Most probably as above, a clip or something has come astray and the door inside the plastic box isn't actually moving.

Trouble is, its a rip the entire dash out, plus the enormous tangle of air con and ducting plumbing just to get to the offending part......

So I just leave a puffer jacket in the truck for winter driving:omg:

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Bloody old Nissans, so unreliable…


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nah, the 31 year old GQ Nissan is fine. Everything still work. its the 25 year old GU Nissan that needs to be off the road for a week when I get the time...and inclination;)

Have your radiator half empty improves heater performance.


Sent from my SM-A226B using Tapatalk

It'll be a 22 case.
Bloody things get everywhere.

unfortunately the whole cable and rod system has been done away with processors and motors/solenoids.

took me nearly a whole day on a subaru to solve a similar issue.
could be worse, could be a f...ing tesla pos!

Thought I would update this as I finally had the time to get the dash apart. I got most of the dash removed but couldnt get it the whole way off. Something was stopping it and I didnt want to break it by forcing it. There must have been a final screw or bolt stopping it. It defeated me. I have had a sufficient break and am now interested in trying again. We want to sell the car, and thinking having half the heating not going will be an issue for a potential buyer.
Ill give it another nudge on my next days off I think.
One thing I did find that I would appreciate some advice on, was when I unclipped the rod that was being moved by the actuator I could move it freely back and forward by hand. It sounded like an internal door was in fact being opened and closed, however when I did it manually with the heater on there was no change in temp. Points to the door as being faulty. When I tried the same thing on the non faulty drivers side, I could not move the door manually.

If I remove the blower motor from behind the glove box, am I likely to have access to that door? Or do I really need to remove the whole dash and just start taking shit out until I get access?

Wait till you start losing water and cannot forgive out where’s it’s going, cheapest fix is to trade it in��

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Originally Posted by Ross Nolan

It'll be a 22 case.
Bloody things get everywhere.

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Yep, and 10mm sockets too.
It's always the 10mm socket missing from the set.

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Originally Posted by Grey Kiwi

Yep, and 10mm sockets too.
It's always the 10mm socket missing from the set.

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I dispute this statement - it's usually the socket I need that's missing from the set. Often it is the 10mm, but usually whatever size I'm needing is just not there right when I need it!

That heater thing is a pain in the arse, even if there is a clip on the actuator rod there are two ends there... You really need to get enough off it too be able to see it and have a look at exactly what isn't doing what it ought to. I have had this in the past where it was right back in the blower where the issue was - a bit of crap had gotten into the duct in front of the diverter flap and it was only letting the flap open to one side or close the entire thing off not direct the flow...

I have no idea but have you searched YouTube for ways to disassemble the dash or fix the original problem?

I find it very helpful sometimes.

Not the heater hoses holding it in ?

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Originally Posted by RUMPY

I have no idea but have you searched YouTube for ways to disassemble the dash or fix the original problem?

I find it very helpful sometimes.

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Yep I fix most thing with the help from youtube. I tiled our bathroom after watching a couple of videos haha

Theres not too much on there annoyingly. The most common issue by far involves the blend door actuator not the blend door itself. The vast majority dont go any further than that, and the videos dismantling the dash are sped up and not much help either.

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Originally Posted by No.3

I dispute this statement - it's usually the socket I need that's missing from the set. Often it is the 10mm, but usually whatever size I'm needing is just not there right when I need it!

That heater thing is a pain in the arse, even if there is a clip on the actuator rod there are two ends there... You really need to get enough off it too be able to see it and have a look at exactly what isn't doing what it ought to. I have had this in the past where it was right back in the blower where the issue was - a bit of crap had gotten into the duct in front of the diverter flap and it was only letting the flap open to one side or close the entire thing off not direct the flow...

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I thought I might take the blower motor in behind the glovebox off and see if theres anything getting in the way from there. Might give me some access to the blend door too.