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Got a ‘96 VX cruiser with a 4.2 turbo diesel. 300k on clock (I’ve done the last 250k)
On the flat I’m fine, but as soon as we hit the hills or attempt an over taking manoeuvre, there’s just no power. It’ll kick down in gear but goes no faster....
A mechanic friend has suggested it’s my diesel pump, and to have this worked on is $2.5k for the outwork plus the remove/re-install labour
Anybody been through similar?
Any advice?
Not the turbo.... My old girl is a slug on the hills always has been but it's the result of no turbo, bosses goes like a cut ca in comparison having been opened up, new exhaust... Etc
I know on the older patrols there was a gause filter that could fill with junk on the inlet side of the pump which would give a similar result as what your are experiencing.
Any boost leaks?
Some of them did have a fault with the injection pump but that usually resulted in stuck on side of road damage.
First up put a boost guage on it....no boost no power then look from there. Could be a stuck waste gate or blown diaphame in the boost compensator or a boost leak between the two or a sevearly blocked fuel filter.
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3in exhaust, 18psi and a tuned injection pump should liven it up abit
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Thanks guys. Will make notes of above and convey to my mechanic
I've got a BJ73 that I had the fuel pump rebuilt and bill came to $3400 in the end. I think it may have been on the more expensive end of it though, they had to replace the body of the pump as well so it's pretty much a new pump. Looked at as it was lacking power, ended up trying to adjust the fuel screw as I thought it had come loose. Adjusting the screw didn't do much and not long after that the revs started hanging and took it in and got the pump done, injectors were buggered too.
All good advice but always start at the cheapest and easiest first. Don't forget the air element as I've seen them in trucks look good but suck them selves flat and restrict air under load to give the same problem yours had. Even saw one that had a new turbo, inter cooler cleaned, new turbo pipes with no luck. turned out to be just a new air element needed! Which leads me back to what I said at the beginning. Cheapest first , air, fuel, boost, hoses, pump timing etc before pumps, turbos and the other expensive stuff. Even a motor running to cold from a dodgy thermostat will lose power more than people realise
Thanks guys. Will def check out all options there
@ SiB I have had one that also lacked power on hills etc didn’t put up any lights or use more gas. Garage couldn’t find any problems but wasn’t till I looked around and found the intake pipe had worked lose under load but at idle was fine but under boost would blow air out.
Had something very similar on my Nissan. Remedy was just a new Fuel filter.
I’m going to check it over myself this weekend
exhaust gas reticulation valve, same symptoms as we had on our mitsi triton. i found the best stuff to use is a bottle of "royal egr cleaner". it took 2 bottles to clean the sludge out.
then i fitted a wee electronic device to keep the valve turned off permanently
Had to have my pump Resealed coz the low sulphur diesel goes the "O' rings, got totally ripped off by "Jaffa" outfit, $3900 by the time it was on the road again,(will admit, new injector tips were $1200) they wouldn't return the pump til it was paid for!!!
Then I found out I could have had a factory reconned exchange pump from Aus for $1100!!!!!:pissed off:
The workshop that I use won't be dealing with that outfit again!!
Could be a great number of things to be fair.
Check all the basics that you can do yourself first.
Then it would pay to get a diesel specialist down your way to check it out. Wouldn't get too carried away doing anything until you have a proper diagnosis.
Mine was low on power so got 3” exhaust, new injectors, high flow turbo and dyno tune (as well as water pump etc as was due fornthem) completely different vehicle and runnin lower egts with a lot more power, no help in finding your solution but options to mull over and let your curiosity win you over
@SiB how did this go for you.
Mechanic just found a crack in the boost fuel line filter. Replaced a $20 piece of plastic and it’s going like a charm!!!
It’s a whole new wagon....
buy a 2.8 naturally aspirated hiace.
It is already a slug before it breaks down (which it wont) so you wont notice any difference.
problem solved.
Boost fuel line filter?Quote:
Originally Posted by SiB
Crack in boost line to pump compensator and replaced main fuel filter maybe?.
@vietnamcam
You speaka da language. That’s the bit.
I appreciated all the advice here. It allowed me to go back to my mechanic (who I trust and rate highly) and give him some suggestions.
Thanks guys!!!!
Si
@SiB what motors are you running? I have a 1991 80. And removed just the factory large worn out muffler and replaced it with a straight pipe in that section only. You really get better spool up and response.
4.2 turbo diesel. The 1HD-FT I think- it’s still w mechanic atm.
I’m taking it into the exhaust repair place anyway so will have a discussion about exhaust
Welcome to Land Cruiser Owners On Line (LCOOL)
Suggest you post your symptoms here. Some very knowledgeable people.
As mentioned earlier, you really really must work through a process of systematic elimination starting with the simplist first. I’ve run these vehicles - 80 and 100 series - in Africa and Aus and dozens of Hilux too and I’ve lost count of the number of times we had problems that some bright spark said would cost a fortune to repair but turned out to be quite an elementary issue.
Sometimes unfortunately though it is the fuel pump! But again, shop around, look in Aus via the forum for rebuilt swap out plug and play units, etc.
The Toyota factory service manual will likely be available online as a download from somewhere, someone on LCOOL.org will have a copy, it makes the process of elimination much easier.
Look up the symptom, FSM will say start here, check this, then that, and so on. Good luck! Let us know the outcome.