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My service plan has run out on 2018 Hilux 4WD. No more cheap services. Next service due next week is 90,000km. After talking to Toyota, that’s going to cost $1000. Complete lube replacement all round. Has anyone gone to an independent mechanic for these services and is it any cheaper and warranty still valid as long as correct consumables and parts are used? If it’s only a small saving I wouldn’t bother but if savings are significant I’d definitely look into it .
TIA
What’s in the warranty agreement with Toyota bro? Sometimes the warranty says it has to be serviced by the dealership and others say it just has to be a warranty approved mechanic. My Holden Colorado was serviced by a garage in town from new as a warranty approved mechanic (most workshops are). Way cheaper then servicing with the dealer
yeah that was the problem with my mercury motor on the boat. 5 year warranty but had to get it serviced at an agent which was boat city in Pram. Still not as far as Napier :O_O:
Looks like I’m shit out of luck. Nearest service centre other than a dealer is Dannevirke. Have to have service done at a service centre or dealer to get the extended warranty out to 5 years. Ute is 4 years old in September.
Got me by the balls on this one I’m pretty sure.
If it's anything like the "full services" I've seen it won't be all fluids, so I'd check to make sure they do include diffs, trans service and transfer box.
Unless they use some ridiculously expensive oil (like ZF do) changing fluids is not difficult or expensive.
Even your local garage shouldn't be able to screw up fluid replacement.
Sounds like it is all fluids. With option to not have done any I don’t want. Just sounds like a shit load of money for 3 hours work.Quote:
Originally Posted by Beetroot
A + B + C
Attachment 195063
Id say youd be a bit light if 1K was your pricing. $855.00 plus timing belt.
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They don't call them stealerships for nothing.
I’d say it’s cheap to get another 1.5 years of warranty
It’s only money, you can’t take it with you when you leave this place
Yup the 90k is 1 of the biggest services.
All up it can get past 1200 easily with everything done.
You can ask for the extras to be checked and replaced only if deemed absolutely necessary.
According to that list they only replace brake fluid and engine oil.
Unless the I* as you said means it's optional.
$1000 is way to expensive but that is to be expected, I'd be inclined to get it done just to keep your warranty.
If there was a considerable saving in not doing the optional fluids and it didn't effect your warranty I'd forgo them and do them myself, if you need them done for warranty purposes then probably best to do them.
If it's an auto ask if the flush the trans out fully or if they just drain whats in the pan? I guess they'd replace the filter too, may pay to confirm.
You could argue the warranty isn't really necessary as Toyota never break....
Curious to know how they inspect the diff, transfer, trans oil when not replacing, do they just check the level is correct?
Maybe they drain it out, look at the colour and stick it back in?
Just suck it up.... I got my 4yr old triton serviced at 40km they insisted on doing the 60km service (due to age not kms) having just failed my warrant for brake pads (wtf I don't tow much) $1300... That's dealership life
As long as you keep good records of the services etc it should be no problem with warranty. I have prestty much serviced my 70 series from new. Oil and filters every 5000km. grease every 2500 kms in the drive shafts. fuel filter every 15000 kms. diff and g box 40kms.
No problems so far.
Dear though. Just the filters are $120 on their own now. Thinking about putting a finer pre filter in with water trap. cheaper filters. Change that one and leave the main fuel filter alone. That's what I did in the last Hi lux.
90k includes diff oils, transfer oil, AT oil drain and refill (there's no filter as such to change), brake fluid, fuel filter, and of course engine oil, and filter. If air filter and cabin filter need doing then that adds bit more on top.Quote:
Originally Posted by Beetroot
Checking oil level and condition is pretty simple and straight forward by the way. It's not rocket science.
I quit my 2017 Hilux back in the day as franchise charged $1300 for ‘big’ service. With the Isuzu, I now have a mates garage do oil changes every 10,000 Km (7.5 litres!) with other servicing according to schedule.
There's nothing to stop people going going else where and getting a cheap service with cheap oil and filters but you just get no warranty.
In five years time with more and electrics coming out your corner mechanic want be able to change a light bulb.
I know few years ago we had a big service coming up so they done a few things extra the service before and gave us a warning.:)
I have just bought a new landcruiser and from previous dealings I certainly won't be taking it for services at a dealer.
My previous experience is that they are fricken useless!
My specialist diesel mechanic has looked after my last cruiser for 9 ish years and I have had a dream run.
It's not about the cost for me I just want it done properlyAttachment 195131
I means inspect
they dont even change the gearbox oil
this is hardly a big service
most of the "I" inspections at dealerships are done with magic wands
find a mechanic you trust and dont instantly question when the bill is 1k no need to buy a toyota dealer another house on queenstowns lake front
Having the same issue as this (dealer service side having questionable behavior) with my hack. Specified on day 1 of the vehicle that I wanted the service schedule modified to have the fuel filter changed at every service not just the ones they thought it would be nice to do it at. Hopeless bastards didn't chuck it on the vehicle's file and now have an $8K bill to replace injectors, pipework and injection pump - and I'm told by people that know the breed the useless bastards havent sorted out the core problem that is likely to have created the damage in the first instance. That, and three counts of bonnet popping up to the safety hook after services, one screwdriver and lots of cable ties recovered after services, a couple of cases of incompetent work leaving the vehicle in basically an unsafe state. Not really happy - just too many ballsups including not being able to tell me who's actually running their outfits. Bloody hopeless.
Sounds like you should be going to mechanic No. 2 No. 3
I found a good mechanic a while ago who didn't try to charge me for everything he could. That was nearly 20 years ago and I still take my vehicles to him.
Yup.Quote:
Originally Posted by rugerman
@No.3
I always put a secondary fuel filter on my new vehicles for that exact reason.
stop taking your vehicle to fuck witsQuote:
Originally Posted by No.3
in saying that my highly skilled mobile mechanic and offsider managed to service six of our picking machines and only fill 5 with oil
number 6 promptly seazed
human error is still a thing that exists but these guys have saved me a lot more than this one day/issue cost me
I also unseazed it and got it working again but its never been the same since
A family member had a 10 year old vehicle (200,000kms) they were having serviced with a dealer due to and extended warranty.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill999
Had a big service coming up and asked when they recommend changing oil in diffs, xfer box and service the trans.
Apparently the oil never needs changing in any of these....
The only vehicle I have ever bought with service history was being serviced by a well known "specialist".
I guess servicing doesn't ever include checking the diff oil as it looked like CV grease and was barely less viscous than grease....
There's a bit of a debate about that with the CAV-type rotary lobe pumps - seems they might take an intense dislike to extra restriction on the suction side and shitting one of the piston return springs or the SCV valve is a risk factor. After those die it would seem the injectors are effectively toast just because they are toast at anything past the 1st km travelled. Cost more than replacement to get them tested... I haven't been able to find a confirmed media rating for the factory filter as well, I've seen anything from 30micron (which is basically useless) to 5micron rated which shouldn't need replacing. I suspect the biggest issue with the AC Delco factory filter on these vehicles is that it filters the fuel return to tank as well as the fresh draw. That strikes me as fully counter-productive trying to do this with one filter as the return flow (around 80% of primary draw) is heated to something near 80degC as it comes back off the injector rail.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gkp
That does two things, heats the incoming draw of fuel which reduces the density and calorific value and requires the pump to move more fuel and the injectors to fire longer to compensate and also basically halves the effective filtration volume of the filter which isn't flash to begin with. The point of filtering the return flow would appear to be removal of any metallic particles from the far-to-common CAV pump piston return spring failure and trying to prevent them from contaminating the entire bloody system.
I would think it would be far more effective to replace the dual path AC Delco filter and set up one filter for the inlet flow and one for the return path and separating the fuel flows completely. The current generation vehicles appear to have gone back to a single flow-path filter with a direct return to the tank so obviously the AC Delco design was a bit of a failed concept and was good for more bloody problems than it solved.
A sage comment - both for the first line and the second observation...Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill999
If the dealer proves to be hopeless, who the heck do you go to next? It's almost worth pirate importing the factory computer and doing it yourself when you consider the cost incurred from staying with dealer servicing in this case. It's not just consequential damage it's the vehicle down time and fart arsing about getting the thing in which is an entire cost far in excess of the basic 'cost of service'. We seem to seriously struggle with competent mechanical support in NZ - I know of several occasions recently where professional mechanics have started into a job and got to a position of 'oh fu*k' where the job just trippled in labour costs and an extra factor of parts etc etc.
I had one recently on a little Tiida, WOF fail on lower arm bushes top hats and something I can't recall. Quote $2K. Ended up saying stuff it, got my mate who's a mechanic to do the thing at my place for a bit of labour, food and use all my gear and ended up all the WOF parts, servicing the CVT, replacing the plugs, and additionally doing front struts belt and a couple of joints for about $1400. I realise that the commercial boys have overheads and bricks and mortar to fund but jey-sus, their markup on labour and parts is frightening. Getting that job done by them who failed the thing would have been probably $3500 at the end of it on a $3000 car.
One place where the bigger boys like the dealers can beat me is at cost of lubricants - the dealer charge for oil for my vehicle is $1.20 less than I can buy it for and to be honest I get it at a reasonable sharp rate (well under retail).
When doing a self service an oil change every 5000
Filter as well but if tight every 10000
Fuel Filters every 80-100000 just remember every time u open the fuel system is more of a chance for shit/ contamination to get into the system
Biggest chance for shit getting into the fuel system is when you fill up. Seriously, some of the commercial suppliers don't even run catcher filters between the tank and the pump - any crap that gets stirred up off the bottom of the tank gets sent straight out the delivery gun. I don't know what the answer is to this issue, one of the worst times to fill up is on the fuel company promo or discount days where the throughput and flow out of the tank is much much higher than any other time and the trucks have to drop two or three times a day.Quote:
Originally Posted by 260rem
I know a couple of guys that fill a 5L can every time they fill up and keep it to settle the content out just to check if any crap comes through with the fuel. I don't know how worth it that is - I think what they are thinking is if the can shows bug or water settling out of the fuel they go back and claim off the company for any clean out costs or damage but I am really not sure how easy that would be.
You lot do know most delivery trucks only have two hoses for 3 fuels right, also if you are in chch Mobil has the only pipe over the hill , jet is all ways the first over, the other little secret is npds “100+” which is 95 with a booster , which said booster took 2 days to destroy the hose so god knows what it’s doing to your fuel systems
Cant be a ford dealer 10lts 0/30 120 bucks from super cheap but ford rape service 200+ soon as mine is out warranty Ill go local with egr delete and xtra fuel filters and downloading forscan for tpms delete etcQuote:
Originally Posted by No.3
What’s your point?Quote:
Originally Posted by longrange308
Don’t complain about fuel quality cos it’s shit , fuel filters every time you do a oil filterQuote:
Originally Posted by McNotty
Nothing wrong with the fuel. Majority of the time it’s someone’s put the wrong grade in the wrong hole in the ground…….;)
Once the additive is diluted into fuel (dosage rate is less than 2% worst case) it doesn't eat much. When it's in concentrate form OMG it eats everything - including PTFE or teflon protected components. It chews it's way through concrete once it gets out of the pipework and starts dripping. Latex gloves don't even slow it down, incredible stuff. It strips the paint off the drum if you leave the drum open too long. That's just the vapours getting out...
As far as the hoses, there's only one string and one pipe off the fuel berths and it all goes through that one pipe and hose string. The only other fuel pipe is for black oil for the ship propulsion and then you have the others for chemicals, cement, and the like.
Haha shandy up...Quote:
Originally Posted by McNotty
Hmm you're getting raped... Check what you are using there though, needs to be the specific grade of full synthetic and there aren't that many sources for it at the mo. Jut because it's 0/30 doesn't mean it's right. I get it at $21inc a litre last time I checked, so $12 seems light from Supercheap (they usually aren't cheap, but I had to get the CVT trans oil from them last time as they were the only outfit with 8L in stock. $5 a bottle dearer than my usual for the same exact product, not too bad on that one surprisingly).Quote:
Originally Posted by m101a1
The service timeframes are a bit of a prick too, filter off, refill and replace then drop the sump and as soon as it stops plug back in and refill. And hope that you haven't airlocked the oil pump... Stupid system. There needs to be a test point somewhere between the oil pump and the galleries to be able to run a drill pump and back purge when filling the sump just to make sure there isn't any issues with air getting into the pump - it's one reason I don't do the servicing on that myself (blame some other bastard if it turns to shit).
In Australia linking warranty to servicing by Toyota was called out by fair trade as a restraint of trade. Surprised it’s not the same in NZ.
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I believe it's been called out here, but they still insist under extended warranty and service plan provisions. Bastards.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dicko
Full syn from super cheap just not castrol but the change system is a cunt not to mention the dealer down here but he will keep , no more money from me with his attitude and the toyota dealer is no better .
