@Danny Mount Maunganui, Totara Street
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@Danny Mount Maunganui, Totara Street
I've got a 2001 over 400000 on the clock as my work truck. New head 4 months ago my fault, transmission around 2yrs ago, still like it thou.
Hey mate,
Yeah mines a '96 1kz, but the auto.
Yeah the head only becomes an issue if overheated, and the overheating is often just caused by a faulty Rad cap, also at that milage the radiators can become quite blocked up, so if it hasnt already been replaced, you'd def pay to get it taken out and flushed and inspected and checked for blockage etc at a minimum, some people just replace at that milage.
If the cooling system is looked after and engine not overheated, then the heads are normally fine.
The radiators in the auto also have an oil cooler for the trans in the bottom tank which causes a restriction and also dumps extra heat into the water, which is really hard on the cooling system especially when doing heaving towing - But being a manual you shouldnt have to worry about that.
Often the guys with auto prados, fit a radiator from a manual and fit a seperate transcooler, or just fitting a seperate trans cooler helps a lot on its own.
Also you want to have the front ball joints checked very well by someone who knows how to check them properly. The original ones after quite a few miles do tend to break, causing a front wheel to fold back under the vehicle, not something you want to have happen at all, let alone at speed.
But those things aside, i love my old truck, just keep up the regular oil and filter changes and she keeps on chugging, it suits my purpose perfectly. It gets me where i need to go hunting etc and Nothing to flash to leave at Public road ends.
Bit of an old thread, but after making that post I did go out and buy a 96 prado Auto 1kzte, Ive owned it the last 5-6 years now. Nothing has gone wrong bar one thing, but I did fit an additional trans cooler (after reading the above post if anything goes wrong with the rad I'll fit a manual one). Ive done about 100 thou k's in her and have only had one fix and that was the steering rack ends (200 bucks) everything else has been fluids, oil, filters, tires etc. I actually really like the old girl. Very comfy to drive plus its bloody practical for what I do.
Just wanted to say thanks for this thread. Looking for a late 90's Prado and this has been big help!
You sure it's selectable 4x4 mucko? I have the same model although a 98. I didn't realise it was fulltime 4x4 untill I tried to do a paddock hack and nearly rolled it lol. Going into 4x4 locks the back diff I believe, diff lock works well in mine I get quite far on aggressive a.ts and would do much better on m.ts. I have the 3.4 petty aswell and you'd be amazed the fuel economy if you keep it below 90kms really stretches a tank out. I get 500-550 driving normally I get 600-700 driving like a bitch.
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Roger that. So in layman's terms? Cause the rear seems to lock up (maybe lsd) and the front just single spinner
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If you don't have lockers all you have is single spinners.
I have a manual 1996 SWB Prado. It is full time 4x4. It has a central diff lock that distributed power evenly to both axles (this is locked in low range) and also has the factory diff lock on the rear axle only. Works well and that rear diff lock has got me out of some places!
Mine definately has positive lock up in the rear. Is nz new model if that makes any difference
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@Cartman you would know if you had a rear locker
Attachment 85591
Scuffing the inside rear tire on a hard or gravel type surface is a symptom of being in 4wd on a part time 4wd generally they have no center diff.....think hilux.
Allwheel drive or permanent 4wd involves a center differential of some sort so very generally speaking you can still get stuck with only one wheel spinning front or rear.....untill you lock the center diff giving you "hilux" 4wd where by two wheels must spin in order to be stuck one front and one rear.
When one speaks of "diff lockers" one should not be really be referring to the center diff....that is the domain of front and rear selectable diff lockers.
Toyota lsd may be "shit" as an off road lsd but if you understand how they work and drive them accordingly they work pretty well.....if you regularly have wheels off of the ground you should have lockers or at least an Auto locker in the rear.
Where lockers suck ball is in steep country and ice, keep the diffs open and spin... or lock em and slide off the track,soft sand/dunes same same open/lsd diffs win but crossaxle situations its a locker every time.
@GWH I know what you are saying re the wear but static pressure is not how the diff is designed to work, it is designed to lock up threw the clutch packs with torque supplied threw the diff and pressure clamping that clutch pack supplied threw the side gears thrust.
Ie if you roll up onto a cross axle with momentum and stop with wheels off the ground or very light contact you are going no where unless brake and throttle are applied to load the clutch pack ;).
My current 2wd hilux has done a lot more burnouts than it probably should have and every single one has been both wheels at 340,000km ...Why? because there is torque flowing threw the diff forcing those side gears into the clutch packs locking up the 340,000km worn diff.
Is the Toyota lsd diff ideal for off road work new or worn NO!. Does it work if one understands how it works and how to drive to make it work yes. (worn or new)
Not long bought a 97 manual prado 1KZ. Third of the price I sold the Patrol for. Sat in the garage most of the time so could justify having it and too worried I'd dent it up. Was too tidy. Just done a head on it plus few other bits. Will get a bigger dump pipe fitted and snorkel. Possibly aftermarket water temp gauge. Bloody comfortable and goes well. Won't matter if it gets scratched up etc as not worth a lot.