Thread: trailer breaks/kits

LOL.....because I changed trailers not long after wiring leds on.....the new trailer is of course longer than the old one.....so I got small clear honey jar and drilled cable sized hole in base and the lid....and put the joiners inside the jar......any issues with wiring and after the plug its the 2nd place to look....keeps it neat n tidy and out of the weather without having insulation tape for africa.

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

LOL.....because I changed trailers not long after wiring leds on.....the new trailer is of course longer than the old one.....so I got small clear honey jar and drilled cable sized hole in base and the lid....and put the joiners inside the jar......any issues with wiring and after the plug its the 2nd place to look....keeps it neat n tidy and out of the weather without having insulation tape for africa.

That's one way - the other method of doing that is an electrical junction box up the front and run the bulk of the cable forwards and join it at the junction box. I still prefer the duraseal crimp and a quick blat with the heatgun to shrink and seal the crimps, or solder and two layers of dual wall heat shrink approach at the back end. Mate of mine got some sealed LED's with 7m of quality 5-core tinned cable already attached, and simply run them up the chassis and terminated both cables in the back of a 7-pin socket on the inside of the two rails just behind where they meet and the towing hitch is bolted on. He's got a couple of pilot lights coming from the same place. Makes the termination into the back of that socket a little messy, but it works. Then the little male-female lead to plug into the tow vehicle... That has lasted really well and so far after 5 years on a boat trailer hasn't need to be touched once.

The brakes on that trailer are another story - he managed to flick something up on a gravel road which flattened the bundy tube as he was slowing down and the trailer brakes were applied. It basically park braked the trailer and he was driving along with the brakes cooking off. New bearings, hubs, calipers, and stub axles later all back running as per. One of the few times I've seen stub axles blue on a trailer! A good reason not to run the bundy tube on the bottom of the chassis rails of the trailer.

Of interest to the discussion, saw this today regarding the trailer and brake standards they are talking about introducing. https://www.newstalkzb.co.nz/news/na...uments-reveal/ Would be so much easier to be able to use the Aussie air-over brake systems combined with a GVM upgrade pathway!