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Thread: Under car rust proofing

  1. #1
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    Under car rust proofing

    Finally, cabin chassis turned up,
    main use is work, farm stuff and fishing.
    Should I get Autoblast to spray the underneath, is it worth the $?

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  2. #2
    MSL
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    What cab chassis is it?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #3
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    I would say rust is the least of your problems with fuel consumption like that

  4. #4
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    Used this system over the years along with underbody application gun etc. Most panel beater suppliers have similar stuff to to sell direct . Cheaper than what Supercheap Repco sell
    https://www.raj.co.nz/category/527-underbody-protection
    Snap 4T likes this.
    Si vis pacem, para bellum

  5. #5
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    There’s some stuff called fluid film that they rave about in the rust belt in the US. Most under seal just trap the moisture in.
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    Remember the 7 “P”s; Pryor Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance.

  6. #6
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    Well, in the old days we used to use fishoilene. Stunk like hell, but bloody worked well.

    There's a great product made by Wurth. 'Cavity wax'. Apparently it is used in aircraft and its good.

    Ok, so. The application. Is your vehicle new or second hand?? Second hand the chassis will need a big steam clean, then drying time and then application. New just apply when its dry.

    I would use an underseal on the outside of the chassis and then the cavity wax in the box sections with a wand. The idea is to get a film of wax etc everywhere, which then excludes oxygen and water, thereby preventing rust from forming. Do every seam, pillars etc you can get at.

    If you do the door pillars, pull the seat belt right out by hand before you pull the trigger to stop contamination of the belts.

    I used to have to do this weekly when I was an apprentice so if you need more advice..........

  7. #7
    Member Micky Duck's Avatar
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    The wax stuff is waste of time if you intend to steam clean/waterblast..didnt last 2 months on fert sower despite going back for 2nd go at putting it on.
    we had tectil rust proofing on mazda ute and rusted it out in 2 years!!!!!!
    something thick and flexi would be ideal.... if you afford it,do it.
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  8. #8
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    That tectyl stuff was rubbish Micky. Used to dry out and crack and let the water in.

    Yep. something that will stick, is water proof and flexible.

    Not really sure wax stuff will withstand pressure gun, its not made for that.

    When I got my landcruiser new I stripped it down. Blasted rust killer into the seams, and let that dry for a week with the heater going in the cabin. Then applied the cavity wax to the interior seams ( like in the doors and window frames, pillars etc)

    Underseal for the chassis and exterior floor pan. Wax in the chassis box section till it was running out.

    No sign of rust yet anywhere and its ten years old now.
    Moa Hunter and Micky Duck like this.

  9. #9
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    I run my car on the beach, though salt water and get it covered in sand. I just wash it out throughly including chassis rails and really flush the underbody and front end after each trip. Been doing it for over 10 years. No rust apart from a little around the back door seals which is not due to beach use. Vehicle in 15+ yrs old.

    Vehicle protective coatings have come along way. Wasting your money in my opinion. Unless Toyotas are special and I doubt that.


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  10. #10
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    This stuff is quite popular in UK for both motorcycles and landrovers for salted roads in winter. Used on aircraft, so can't be too bad https://www.aero-marine.co.nz/acf-50... I think there's a thicker version too, maybe for marine application?
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  11. #11
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    Prolan Extreme Lanolin - spray inside all cavities and over underfloor and chassis
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSL View Post
    What cab chassis is it?
    Hilux


    Quote Originally Posted by rugerman View Post
    I would say rust is the least of your problems with fuel consumption like that
    Haha.. didnt see that one. 1 litre per km, I must have turbo all the way home.



    Quote Originally Posted by tac a1 View Post
    Well, in the old days we used to use fishoilene. Stunk like hell, but bloody worked well.
    ....
    Ok, so. The application. Is your vehicle new or second hand?? .......
    I used to have to do this weekly when I was an apprentice so if you need more advice..........
    Yeah, I use fish oil on hardly use tools at work and yes, they stink, leave a thick layer of film and stick like an animal.
    its new Hilux and thank you for the offer, much appreciate it.



    Cheers guys for the info and advice,
    Look like they going to do the same stuff you guys mentioned,
    all set and booked with Autoblast for next week.

    My in law told me in Europe, they have similar stuff but
    no matter what they did, salt from winter road always wins.

    See how this one goes,
    if all is good and no visible rust next year maybe I will do the same with my daily drive.

  13. #13
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    The salt over there is a bit different. Its much more concentrated than, say, salt water. It will eat through anything I would say.

    Ive seen a few vehicles imported from the UK and US where they use salt. It aint pretty. Major chassis rust issues and floor pans rusted out.

    Make sure you get that Hi Lux serviced early Snap. Don't let it go over its service intervals. These new diesels wont put up with poor maintenance or bad fuel. My 2c anyway.

    My wifes prado has a oil change interval of 15k. I change the oil and filter in it every 7500kms.
    Snap 4T likes this.

  14. #14
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    ok, I will keep that in mind. thank you

 

 

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