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Noticed a rattle and found that a bush/spacer has shit itself and other side is close to going poo as well.
I have no Idea what to ask for at the stealership parts desk so anyone shed any light on the proper name for the circled "thing"
I know ts part of the suspension rear but what??
Attachment 203247
Sway Bar Link bushes
Sway bar vertical link arm n bushs.Repco should have them,about $100 aftermarket item.
Thanks to all who helped.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trout
Found some in Aussie set of 2 for $50NZ landed.
LH-RH-Rear-Sway-Bar-Link-Pin-Bush-Kit-for-Mitsubishi-Pajero-NH-NJ-NK-NL-4cyl-2.5L-4D56T-2.6L-4G54-2.8L-4M40-
I know buy local but........
Just got rear link arm are replaced in patrol last Tuesday,to get wof.The only thing i had to replace for the last yr with 20400ks travelled.Smashed the end on other link river batching.Cost $70.
Attachment 203269
https://www.onlineautoparts.com.au/p...8K/ZPN-03031__
I'd suggest replacing the main D bushes underneath there at the same time.
I know I should but I'm not very mechanical unless its floating machinery and a floating 4x4 is not a good thing!!Quote:
Originally Posted by ROKTOY
The D bushes are 2 bolts each to remove them, bushes have a split in them to remove/refit. I am free for a few hours every now and then if you want a hand.Quote:
Originally Posted by mikee
hey bud, I did my boy's a few months back but i bought the whole link kit with new rods/nuts/washers etc.
anyway.. just get some crc or something to soak into the threads while you're waiting for the bushes to arrive it'll help when you go to take them off, ours were a bit dry & rusty at the thread.
I used fencing pliers(vice grips or plumbers pliers will do too) to hold the bolt to stop it rotating while turning the last nut off with a socket, take a closeup pic to remember the washer orientation, they go on 1 way.. around the bush.. '( O )' not ') O ('.
You can compress the new bushes pretty hard before the nut bottoms out so when you're doing them back up just use your eyes.. if the bush starts do deform that's probably far enough, no need to crush/split them they need a little flex to work nice, you can always tweak them up a notch after a few days as they settle.
when you refit them, get both sides(left & right) captured before you tighten them up so you're not straining against the sway bar to line the other side up.
& while you're under there... check the gearbox mount bushes on the cross member. you have to peel the rubber dust flaps to the side to see them, ours were beyond gone & hidden out of sight.
i thought it'd be a 5 min job but took nearly an hour farting around on the driveway..
enjoy..
oh yeah.. last thing, if i'd used my brain i woulda cracked the first nut, undone it a bit & sprayed the thread wth crc then retightened it & then cracked the nut on the opposite end of the bolt, that way both ends woulda been easier to undo. but being a dumpluck i dived in & undone one end completely then laboured with the fencing pliers to hold the bolt tight while i tried to crack the other nut which hadnt been off for decades. so yeah i wasted some time & effort there... sigh
