Thread: which 50-60cc Stihl chainsaw

Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

Rip the rings into half or quarters, then lift

Farm trees don’t hold their breath so a small bar can make small rings, they grow, and grow

You walk over there n scratch yer head and go “ shit this was bigger than I thought !”

And often your required to “tidy up” the mess or broken/blown over tree, so you clean up the whole thing, trunk and all

Then leave some cut wood behind for the farmer

Because the farmer is always a bloody good fella

Farmers are all grumpy old pricks

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Originally Posted by Mackattack

loooking at a new saw as a general use farm/firewood saw.
was looking at a ms291 for 1375 although they currently have a special on the ms311 for an extra $3
so basically at the moment im considering the ms311 for 1378 or even going to the ms261 for 1585.
anyone have feedback on these 2 saws?
cheers

I have the 311 but it has a 20” on it, it is a great saw but I think especially after reading this, the smaller bar would be best, and I’ll head in and speak to them this week about that.
It’s a great saw and it comes out with me every weekend and eats the Douglas easily but, it’s no magnum saw.


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My dad and I assessing a Macro on our farm a few years ago

Originally Posted by Mackattack

Not to much work. Wouldn't be every day. Odd bit of fencing and then ringing up firewood/ clearing trees that have blown over. Have a mix of blue gum. Douglas and macrocarpa. Probably end up with around 10cube of firewood a year.

Have a look at the saws sold by 'Goods Direct' at Rangiora. A mate put me onto them after a big blow here in Canterbury, he lost a lot of trees and bought two new saws to clean them up. I bought one, a Huskey copy and it has been a great saw. Replaced the plug with a genuine Huskey made plug and that fixed the high rev miss.
This saw has never caused any grief. I have ringed up a lot of big Blue Gum logs 700 - 900 mm, knotty macro etc. For sure a big powerful saw will go through big logs like a hot knife through butter but for the money these Huskey and Stihl copies are great. After all Stihl is made in China now anyway. The depreciation on a $1800 saw in one year will be more than the purchase of a Goods Direct saw, cost more to insure and be a target for thieves

Interesting they say 25:1 is that the ratio you run.

3% fuel oil mix for over 60cc saws to keep the clutch side crank bearing cool

2% for anything smaller


3% is 33 to 1 which you can actually use for everything


The critical load area of saws is not the piston, it’s the crank bearings

The highest thermal load is on the piston/barrel clearance

If you keep inside the cases of your saw exceptionally clean then thermal load concern of parts is all but eliminated

Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

My dad and I assessing a Macro on our farm a few years ago

Attachment 226298

She’s pretty big job.


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Originally Posted by Danny

She’s pretty big job.


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That’s just how some trees roll

GB Titanium bar from a Waratah harvester

Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

3% fuel oil mix for over 60cc saws to keep the clutch side crank bearing cool

2% for anything smaller


3% is 33 to 1 which you can actually use for everything


The critical load area of saws is not the piston, it’s the crank bearings

The highest thermal load is on the piston/barrel clearance

If you keep inside the cases of your saw exceptionally clean then thermal load concern of parts is all but eliminated

Yep, hottest part of the saw is the front right area of the cylinder - right next to the area where the oiler lives so if you have a thermal problem often one of the signs is poor bar oiling - thermal thinning of the bar oil due to crankcase heat. Had one 026 that was really bad for this, slight ding on the front half of the muffler was redirecting the exhaust gas over the front right of the crank case. Weld a little deflector plate on and hey presto no more issue...

As far as oil ratio in the fuel, I've gone to good synthetic or semi-synthetic oil (quality stuff not something from a bulk retailer) and 40:1 for everything. One of these oil brands guarantees their oil against all and any damage at 100:1 in modern small engines - bugger that but at 40:1 I know it's a good mix and if the saw is clean and the chain is sharp there won't be any issue with heat damage. It's one of the things I don't like about TC tipped chains, they cut slower and are draggier in the wood meaning more load and heat on the saw. They have their place, I was using one stumping out a conifer tree stump that just refused to die. See how it likes life in the fireplace... Very hard on gear, bars and clutches and rim sprockets but at least the chain doesn't go blunt in the first second hitting dirt. Saw runs noticeably hotter on the TC chain though, I just don't like them for normal work.

@No.3 what category would you put the stihl oils in?

Originally Posted by bigbear

@No.3 what category would you put the stihl oils in?

I use the stihl full synthetic at 40 to 1 as it's a small price to pay for geat protection.

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bubkin billy ray has a good video on oils..... really good watch,and rather eye opening as to wherethey all come from.... for years I just used the she'll be right attitude and threw car engine oil in with petrol at a slosh per tank...I now know better..my saws run properly and idel properly too. slightly oilier than 50;1 the wee 261 doesnt like it much oilier,the old 025 and 026 would probably run on diesel... not fussy at all.

Yep, 40:1 fully synthetic Total 2T oil for my 2 big saws and the Enduro dirt bike. $22/L whereas the Motul product I was recommended was $48/L

and the 300cc enduro is now nudging 600 hours on one piston/rings change. Gotta be happy with that.

Here's one guys opinion. Uses Husky oil in his Stihl.
https://youtube.com/shorts/rT3UkhPu0o4?feature=share4

I watched a review recently of all brands of oil and Stihl didn't come out on top. Will try to locate that review.

BBR conclusion was the stihl oil is the same as castorl stuff....look on back of your big brand oils and see who actually MAKES it.... I had bad run with the tt stuff..possibly double dosed the 261 and had to take it into shop to get sorted..the same fuel was simply drunk with out a burp by the 025 LOL. no flash harry filter in fuel system to get clogged up.saw would run but die as soon as tried to rev it.