Thread: Bahco Knives

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

Cheap enough you can melt handle off and see what you have to work with.

My metal detector pin pointer says the tang finishes 30-35mm before the end of the handle.

Originally Posted by XR500

My metal detector pin pointer says the tang finishes 30-35mm before the end of the handle.

Plenty of length to rehandle to something a bit more aesthetically pleasing then

It would be a labour of love to re-handle a ten dollar knife.

I prefer to accept them as they are and just use them.

Originally Posted by Fee Knicks

It would be a labour of love to re-handle a ten dollar knife.

I prefer to accept them as they are and just use them.

True, but i do like to keep myself busy and I have a couple spares

Got one of these from Bunnings for $30......outstanding value, great in the tackle box

Originally Posted by Scouser

Got one of these from Bunnings for $30......outstanding value, great in the tackle box
Attachment 268587

Don't think Mega has them where I work.

Originally Posted by Tahr

The harder the knife steel the finer the sharpening steel should be. Otherwise it just chatters along the edge.
As shepherds we used to hone our new sharpening steels down on a brick.

Did you ever farm with Jethro Tull. LOL.

Originally Posted by TeRei

Did you ever farm with Jethro Tull. LOL.

I went to school with Jethro.
Did you know that he invented the seed drill?

Originally Posted by Tahr

I went to school with Jethro.
Did you know that he invented the seed drill?

Amazing guy he has a rock band too

Originally Posted by Happy Jack

Don't think Mega has them where I work.

They have a DeWalt one for approx $60

Originally Posted by Tahr

I went to school with Jethro.
Did you know that he invented the seed drill?

Some people do know their history,

The original agronomist, our friend Jethro. I named a wheat variety after him some years back. Tull. Unfortunately not a very successful cultivar but not bad germplasm.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

That's interesting...try changing your steeling angle. My work mate has been getting me to sharpen his knives and it had me buggered how they got so blunt. Once I chucked out his draw through tool much better but they keep coming back with huge rounded shoulders...then I saw him use steel. It's my firmly held belief that your knife should just about lay down against the steel when stroking it. (The back edge of blade closer to steel) You are after all just trying to restraighten the tiny bent bits on very edge of blade. If your knife is at closer to right angles to steel you are rubbing the sharp bit off. The only way I can discribe that is with hand flat curl tips of fingers over....that's a worked full blade.by steeling you are unrolling fingertips back straight again.

Small gains or what you should have been doing ages ago. It does make a difference. Some things stare you in the face and you never recognise it. The benefit of the Forum. Some one always has a bit of knowledge to add to the knowledge pile.

The tradional "Rabbiters Steel " would be the ruin of many a knife.

Might as well use an old chainsaw file - not much differance in texture or roughness.

A steel liberated from your local meat works is a much better tool - the smoother the better

Cambrian 14" butchers steel - these come in "cuts" usually 3, fine #4, extra fine #5 or polished #8. Various lengths the longest is 14" and while it's a pest to transport it is the one you need for long knives like chef knives or long filleters.

I have a #3 and a #4 cut, either will do but for kitchen knives that go through the dishwasher and get used on dinner plates etc (which is real hard on an edge) the #3 does the business.