Best hunting knife unders $100?

I always have a mercator in my pocket and NZ Svord in my pack. The Svord holds its edge well.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 7mmwsm

Spent a morning breaking down deer straight off a helicopter last week. I probably did fifteen or so just with a Mercator. Touched it up with a steel but it kept going. Took a Victorinox, Swibo and Eicker expecting to need them but didn't.
A proper handle would be more comfortable though.

---

Wonder it didn't break weak as shit knives

Sent from my Nokia X20 using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MSL

How does any of that mitigate the swelling of the wood?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Makros

Lol try that when the wood is wet and it's jammed. Mine required pliers. Terrible design.

---

Have you actually tried this?

I used an Opinel knife in the jungles of South East Asia as a backup folder and had no issues with the Inox version despite constant moisture.

The handle is designed in such a way that the sharp, hard tap on the flattened end causes the blade to pivot on the hinge and from there the tip will be exposed enough for it to be opened.

I like a Gerber Gator folding drop point. I reckon you could get one for less than a hundy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 7mmwsm

I'm not very strong so that might be why it didn't break.
Oh and I prefer to use technique rather than dumb arse strength.

---

Surgeon, nothing to do with strength it's the piss poor locking system that goes ,had it happen twice once while gutting a trout , it's a common fault.

Sent from my Nokia X20 using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Makros

Agree with all the above posters. The Victorinox, Victory, Green river, Mercator, Bahco knives are good performers and cheap. You don't need to pay more to have functionality for hunting at all.

But there is one caveat (this is the $50 to $500 extra caveat) carry a sharpening steel. All of those knives can be sharpened to be razor sharp but they tend to go blunt quickly as they all struggle to hold an edge in the field.
The Mercator is the worse one of that list in my experience, but is so soft and quick to sharpen that most forgive it I think as it's back to razor in no time. I carry one as a spare always because even with a rock you can sharpen that thing.

I've tried them all (maybe not the Victory though - I think Green river are similar however) and think they are all really good knives and I use a few at home for butchering. However, their edge retention struggles when skinning and boning out in the field.

I know I should try and avoid this but I end up cutting through hair sometimes, scrapping and cutting against bone when boning and in general doing things that are terrible for retaining a sharp edge. It is here where the extra money on a better knife (or more accurately better knife steel) actually makes a difference and I found myself with many knives (a Mercator for most of the time) struggling with them for too long before stopping and sharpening them. This is my failing really not the knives, but I'm sure many are similar and tend to just want to get the job done and often push a blunt knife a bit too far before steeling/sharpening in the field which is both frustrating and dangerous.

I ended up with a couple Knives of Alaska "Alpha wolf" knives. Which can be had for about $140 and I've found the steel will go through boning and butchering several animals without needing attention. I really like them and are extremely good for the small premium (but also come with a sheath which many cheaper options don't). I still carry a small steel and diamond hone but these are used for between animals if needed.
https://www.top-gear.co.nz/shop/SHOP...l+-+326FG.html

---

D2 is 3 x more wear resistant than the other steels mentioned here.

The victory etc are good knives but are very basic steels that are very soft. The soft steels work well in a commercial setting as they are cheap, fast to sharpen and deflect rather than chip or abrade with bone contact.

Cutting meat in a factory environment is not very abrasive on an edge. Cutting hair etc in the field is massively abrasive. Obviously guys that have worked in a meat works etc are going to be far more efficient, but most of us haven't worked in a meat works so don't have the benefit of years worth of cutting experience


For you average Jo, a better quality steel is going to hold a usable edge wayyy longer in a field environment than any of the above mentioned knives.

Oh and ditch your steel for the D2, KOA runs it up around 60rc the steel is to soft to have a meaningful effect on the D2.

Ahhhh , the deep and endless rabbit hole of knives and knife steel.
Hate to say it but no right or wrong answers here , you use what works for you .
I have my own ideas around knife design and knife steel mostly based around real world in the field practical use .

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NRT

Wonder it didn't break weak as shit knives

Sent from my Nokia X20 using Tapatalk

---

Have used Mercator pocket knives for nearly 50 years. Farm, general use and hunting. I’m hard on knives and the only problem I’ve ever had with them is losing a couple. As stated on another thread can skin and break down a couple of deer no trouble without sharpening or do a day of dressing goats (20+) for processing. Each to their own tho.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 7mmwsm

I just like Mercator's.
Got a few different brands as well. Some with serrated blades. Don't really like them.
Found this when helping a old guy shift.
So if any of you hate Mercator's and have a broken one with a spare blade, I'd be happy to take it off your hands for some beer or such. Attachment 201466

---

Have you got any new ones that you can compare to old ones?
I had an old one that was worn almost to a ice pick that was used for possums for years by a friend and I used it in high school for the same purpose. It was probably brought before the 80s. It stayed sharp for ages. I have a couple newer ones and I'm sure the steel isn't even similar as I find they go from razor to blunt in very short order.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bumblefoot

@zeropak I'm a clumsy bugger and don't want to lose them! ;)

---

@bumblefoot Fair call, but at least if you do loose one the tears will be a lot less that if it was your new custom made $500 hunting knife, have to admit I did consider the pink, but could not quite bring myself to push the buy now now button, ended up with blue. But I guess out in the scrub theirs a fair chance no one will see you with the pansy pink knife.:pacman:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 7mmwsm

I just like Mercator's.
Got a few different brands as well. Some with serrated blades. Don't really like them.
Found this when helping a old guy shift.
So if any of you hate Mercator's and have a broken one with a spare blade, I'd be happy to take it off your hands for some beer or such. Attachment 201466

---

Could do a replacment blade for it in a good steel :thumbsup:

Assume the pins are all peened? What's the locking mech on these standard slip joint?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by caberslash

Have you actually tried this?

I used an Opinel knife in the jungles of South East Asia as a backup folder and had no issues with the Inox version despite constant moisture.

The handle is designed in such a way that the sharp, hard tap on the flattened end causes the blade to pivot on the hinge and from there the tip will be exposed enough for it to be opened.

---

I have an Opinel. It's a family heirloom, sad since it's only $30 knife! I used it and abused it as a kid, but had it restored by a generous forum member who wouldn't take payment. Sad to say, the handle does swell badly when it gets wet. Maybe the newer versions are better. The carbon steel blade is a shocker for rust. I know this is a feature of carbon steel, but it doesn't make for a very practical knife, so it stays at home. On the plus side, the blade is one of the sharpest and easiest to sharpen that I've come across.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dicko

I like a Gerber Gator folding drop point. I reckon you could get one for less than a hundy.

---

I've got a couple of those. Wanted folding knives. Overall, I would recommend them. Edge-holding abilities aren't great, but they will get through one animal and they are easy to sharpen.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 7mmwsm

I'm quite happy with a standard Mercator blade. The pins are just burred at both ends so pretty simple.

---

That was mean to be tongue in cheek ;). Would be a cool project. Shame about the big chips as the rest is probably salvageable with a bit of work

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MB

I have an Opinel. It's a family heirloom, sad since it's only $30 knife! I used it and abused it as a kid, but had it restored by a generous forum member who wouldn't take payment. Sad to say, the handle does swell badly when it gets wet. Maybe the newer versions are better. The carbon steel blade is a shocker for rust. I know this is a feature of carbon steel, but it doesn't make for a very practical knife, so it stays at home. On the plus side, the blade is one of the sharpest and easiest to sharpen that I've come across.

---

Have you tried soaking the handle in tru oil or similar? The cutout area just won't be well sealed.

They are lovely thin knive the opines, cut really well