Thread: Best way to sharpen Mercator Stainless?

Further interesting results: my Mercator with a carbon blade came out less sharp than the cheap knock off sheffield with a stainless blade. Followed the same method. Interesting also that the carbon blade really needs to be finished off on a strop, more so than the stainless. Sorry if this is common sense to a lot of you.

Originally Posted by thatguy

Further interesting results: my Mercator with a carbon blade came out less sharp than the cheap knock off sheffield with a stainless blade. Followed the same method. Interesting also that the carbon blade really needs to be finished off on a strop, more so than the stainless. Sorry if this is common sense to a lot of you.

The knockoff stainless blade will be softer, so you will need to do more work on the Mercator to get the same result.

Being XC75(1075) the carbon blade will have a much higher ultimate sharpness potential than the cheap stainless will due to the large chromium carbides in the stainless. You will have to be a pretty good sharpener to get to a point you notice that.

Did you form a burr on the Mercator?

Originally Posted by Nick-D

The knockoff stainless blade will be softer, so you will need to do more work on the Mercator to get the same result.

Being XC75(1075) the carbon blade will have a much higher ultimate sharpness potential than the cheap stainless will due to the large chromium carbides in the stainless. You will have to be a pretty good sharpener to get to a point you notice that.

Did you form a burr on the Mercator?

@Nick-D okay that explains it. In my nativity, I thought it was the other way around (the carbon steel would work up an edge faster as it’s softer or something)
This makes sense because I probably spent a bit more time on the stainless blade, mainly because there were still two angles visible on the edge. I’ll go back and spend more time on the Carbon blade. Thanks for the advise

Originally Posted by thatguy

@Nick-D okay that explains it. In my nativity, I thought it was the other way around (the carbon steel would work up an edge faster as it’s softer or something)
This makes sense because I probably spent a bit more time on the stainless blade, mainly because there were still two angles visible on the edge. I’ll go back and spend more time on the Carbon blade. Thanks for the advise

It usually is the case in equivelent stainless vs carbon as chromium carbides are larger and hard than iron carbides, but given the stainless is a knockoff its a good bet its got a shit heat treat and bugger all carbides in solution.
The thickness of the primary bevel has a big part to play in this as well. I can raise a burr on one of my very hard (62 RC) stainless kitchen knives in about 15 strokes on each side from dead blunt because they are super thin behid the edge.

Just focus on sharpening with your course stone until you can feel a burr. If you do this you will always end up with a sharp knife.

Originally Posted by Nick-D

It usually is the case in equivelent stainless vs carbon as chromium carbides are larger and hard than iron carbides, but given the stainless is a knockoff its a good bet its got a shit heat treat and bugger all carbides in solution.
The thickness of the primary bevel has a big part to play in this as well. I can raise a burr on one of my very hard (62 RC) stainless kitchen knives in about 15 strokes on each side from dead blunt because they are super thin behid the edge.

Just focus on sharpening with your course stone until you can feel a burr. If you do this you will always end up with a sharp knife.

Really appreciate the advise @Nick-D