Thread: Eggington shepherds sharpening steel

Has anyone used the Eggington shepherds sharpening steel? Was looking at buying one.

Is that like the little rabbiters steel that comes with the knife and sheath at most hunting shops?

@charliehorse. No, saw it at NZhunting&fishing. Top Gear nz have them as well, around $20. Same design as the Victory rabbiters steel. But I see top gear have ceramic sharpening sticks at a good price, so I might get one of those.

I saw the Shepherds steel on eBay
There is another Eggingtons, the Sportsman's steel. 2" shorter described as a fine cut with no cross bar.

Both reasonably priced I thought. I have one full sized Eggingtons. They are a decent brand

As far as a suitable steel for in the field we don't have a lot of options if you want to keep it compact. Assuming you are looking small and compact for the field @Three O'Three

Don't mean to de-rail the thread, but can someone explain to me why a steel is preferable to a small sharpening stone and strop (leather belt) for in-field blade touch ups?

Originally Posted by caberslash

Don't mean to de-rail the thread, but can someone explain to me why a steel is preferable to a small sharpening stone and strop (leather belt) for in-field blade touch ups?

A lot depends on what steel your knife blade is .
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Originally Posted by caberslash

Don't mean to de-rail the thread, but can someone explain to me why a steel is preferable to a small sharpening stone and strop (leather belt) for in-field blade touch ups?

A stone to sharpen and a steel to keep it sharp. Can't speak for the leather strop as I've never used one, maybe I'm too young.....but I'm guessing it does the same as the steel. An extra fine edge or shit steel would require more maintenance.

Then there's the steel, coarse, fine, combi.........we used to use wet and dry sand paper to rub them down to desired coarseness.

My 2c

Originally Posted by caberslash

Don't mean to de-rail the thread, but can someone explain to me why a steel is preferable to a small sharpening stone and strop (leather belt) for in-field blade touch ups?

Start sharp and the steel might be good for field maintenance, particularly if you are remote.
Honing on a stone can be slow and tedious.
You might be able to strop using your leather belt on a flat surface but that's a final touch, best on fine edges and may not help much if the knife is dull.
Fur is abrasive on blades
Small diamond steels are light but the one I have has a bulky handle.
Diamond steels are abrasive and remove the slightest about of material (neglible) a traditional steel hones and straightens the feathered edge.
If your blade is a harder variety it might respond better to a fine steel. Some commercial knives like Victorinox while good quality they are not as hard as some the Victorinox is easy to maintain and will touch up easily

I've bought the small rabbiters style Edgington steel. Guy in the shop believed it would be great for my Victory knives. I had a play with it, works great on my victory and Knifekut knives, but a bit abrasive for my lower carbon and damascus knives so I'm looking at buying the small ceramic stick and a couple of the inexpensive Lansky pocket sharpeners from Topgear.

Originally Posted by caberslash

Don't mean to de-rail the thread, but can someone explain to me why a steel is preferable to a small sharpening stone and strop (leather belt) for in-field blade touch ups?

Its not.

A steel will only work for softer simple steels. A strop loaded with compound or a small stone will work for any steel at any hardness.

I much prefer a strop for touch ups on a soft steel knife. The more complex, higher wear resistance steels don't need a touch up in the field usually (at least for my needs, 2 animals max)

the very best steel I ve used for in the field was smaller than a big pen...rod fitted inside handle and turned around and screwed in place for use...got pinched/lost somewhere in distant past...Ive got a similar one from fishing shop marketed as hook sharpener,basically a 3" rod about 1/4" round that is gritted somehow...pretty course but works well and weighs next to nothing.

the question was asked,difference between steel and stones.

a stone removes material to form a sharp pointy edge with tiny feathery bits...your ginsu 2000 or mums bread knife are the extreme HUGE version of the feather edge...whats on a good blade are tiny,all the steel does is restraighten them when they get bent/folded over.... a really hard steel blade wont get a lot of good from a steel,it will sort of only polish edge...as has been said a soft knife will readily be sharpened with a steel as it is aggresive enough to remove some material to reform edge...when in previous life I spent weeks n weks on filleting line...you steeled like normal,then put tip of steel on bench,leant on it and scraped knife DOWN steel away from self towards bench watching angle from above...you can put an edge back on and might gain you a few more hours cutting before needing to go over and restone blade.

the oval diamond steels are very aggresive and work fast on most knives . SS blades have always given me issues being so hard.... give me a simple soft steel blade anyday...or a bacho,those puppies just work.

Only problem I have with using a steel is getting the angle right. My eyecrometer aint that good, thats why I like those pocket sharpeners.
Anyone used the Lansky pocket sharpeners? What's angle are the ceramic rods?
Does anyone how if The "Block Sharpeners" are sold in NZ? https://theblocksharpener.com

mate...try using steel away from you down onto table and stroke knife down and in towards you...a long steel and short knife is easiest...you can LOOK DOWN onto steel/knife and keep angle constant much easier this way.
my ceramic rods sit in wooden block at 25 and 30 degrees??? they look like two cigarettes.