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DO NOT BUY
I've recently brought this knife from hunting and fishing as a small and helpful pack knife. With the intentions for a small, pack ready knife, it was a shit purchase. Don't be fooled with the fancy, bullshit specs, it could hardly whittle wood or prep a deer. Tried sharpening with many different steels but never got the edge back. Shit steel and shit knife.
Attachment 159552
do you want to swap...I will post you a bacho as straight trade......pretty sure I will be able to make the gerber work and if you cant get the bacho to do so...something seriously wrong with your sharpening technique.
Great knife the bacho - takes a hammering and still keeps it edge
It should be alright but thank you though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
I'll definitely keep a lookout at those smaller brands.
PM sent..... hard steel knives like that gerber possibly is will need good stoning to get it sharp....the ceramic rod kit from lanski will get you up and cutting easily too...not as good long term as proper stoning but will do job reasonably well....
there was a member on here in Auckland?? who was doing knife sharping for a small fee. Might be able to dress it up and get back on track for you
I have one of those Gerbers and the folder version as a tramping pack knife and the other hiding in the glovebox, they have done several years of service slicing cheese and salami, among other duties, wood shaving, rope cutting, marshmallow stick prep... A quick rub on a 400 grit stone keeps them serviceable.
@ShelleyQuote:
Originally Posted by bigbear
Possibly learn some knife sharpening skills? Had one of these for a while before losing in scrub.Worked alright for taking legs and back steaks off goats, skinned a couple of deer and genral cutting jobs. The older Gerbers were a bit of a shit to sharpen without a decent stone and steel.
Got a folding Gerber I sharpen with a normal lansky and it works all good i imagine it's the same steel on the blade so should be all good
I will sharpen it for free, you just pay postage here and back, I will use diamonds to establish an edge then swap to stones and finish with Japanese waterstones at 8000grit then a strop with 60000 grit paste, will have a polished edge and you will be able to shave facial hair no problems.
Shelley 021727546
@Reon Morrison there you go mate, this is what this old forum was about. Top members like this helping out others when they can
Shelley........100% good on you.....thankyou for doing this,it restores my faith in mankind.
@Shelley What is a good diamond stone for putting on an initial edge before a traditional stone. I've always used stones which is a pain in the proverbial with a new knife. Thanks!
I would go for a dmt double sided stone diamond stone, probably 6 or 8 inches once side coarse and the other medium, it will last forever, never dish and never wear out - diamonds are forever after all.Quote:
Originally Posted by bumblefoot
It will set you back a couple of hundred though, and it’s definitely for metal removal, the medium will give you an ok edge for cutting through hide but the coarse side is only good for setting an edge or for chip removal.
@Shelley Thank you :)
https://www.top-gear.co.nz/shop/SHOP...+WM8FC-WB.html
That is what I use.
If you got the $$ atoma is the business in diamond stones, but value for money is the dmt duosharps. The fine extra fine (green and red) is a good combo, the fine is roughly equivelent to about 600 grit so is plenty course for re establishing an edge. Only time you'd want to go courser is for reprofiling or chip removalQuote:
Originally Posted by bumblefoot
Yeah, thanks ms everyone. Probably wouldnt be a bad idea getting one of those fancy diamond stones.
