Thread: Knife sharpener

Ok so the new knife fetish is not good, I got a few blades now from different countries , locking systems , blade material .....
So the next thing is sharping them.
I am pretty good with a steel and they do get sharp but I don't know if I am maintaining the best / original cutting angle or can improve on the factory finish ( i know I can )
What system / method are you guys using, I was looking at a Lansky system but there are a lot of others out there.

Lansky at home, jewel stick on the hill

There are tons out there, the one being more expensive than the other.
I use Lansky because it works and its very affordable for the amount of sharpening I do.

I might consider a Wicked Edge or a Tormek if the need was there but, fortunately, it isn't

The Deluxe Lansky does look like a good staring point and there's some nice accessories and You Tube instructional stuff for them as well.
I also like the look of Japanese waterstones and leather strops to really go the next level

A better question might be ‘what’s your budget’?
I found the diamond lansky set too coarse, I don’t know about the ceramic version.
A steel is only really going to refine an existing edge rather than maintain the bevel.
Leather stropping is even better still.

A good set of whetstones and strop plus time will be a valuable investment.

Japstones and autosol on leather

I have a hardly used Lanksy for sale soon. I can post up some pics tomorrow if you're interested, but not much to see. 3 grades of stone and a base mount. $60 posted. It does the job, but I find it a bit annoying to use if I'm honest.

https://www.blademaster.co.nz/shop/S...ky/-LKCO3.html

https://www.blademaster.co.nz/shop/S...ky/-LM009.html

Decent quality stones and a strop. Takes a little learning but it's not hard. Bloody satisfying when you get it right

Well I have tried a few Lansky works but you need to modify to work well and you still won’t get a consistent edge, Japanese waterstones wear too quickly, I really only use them for scandi drinks now and the occasional finishing for a user blade.
For a mid priced if you have a spare bench grinder the paper wheels systems are ok, although I find the grit come off too easy.

For a consistent sharp edge the scary sharp is good, gives a very useable edge, just messy to use, need to do it in the shed, not in the house.

I have a wicked edge on order, already have a few of the diamond stones going up to 1.5 micron lapping film, so after it arrives and a fair bit of practice I should be able to advise you on that system.

If you have a real steady hand and some cheap knives to practice on a good size dmt double sided diamond stone seems like a safe bet, I know a couple of chefs that swear by them.

Originally Posted by Shelley

Well I have tried a few Lansky works but you need to modify to work well and you still won’t get a consistent edge, Japanese waterstones wear too quickly, I really only use them for scandi drinks now and the occasional finishing for a user blade.
For a mid priced if you have a spare bench grinder the paper wheels systems are ok, although I find the grit come off too easy.

For a consistent sharp edge the scary sharp is good, gives a very useable edge, just messy to use, need to do it in the shed, not in the house.

I have a wicked edge on order, already have a few of the diamond stones going up to 1.5 micron lapping film, so after it arrives and a fair bit of practice I should be able to advise you on that system.

If you have a real steady hand and some cheap knives to practice on a good size dmt double sided diamond stone seems like a safe bet, I know a couple of chefs that swear by them.

Yeah I use dmt for the course work then finish on a 8k waterstone and strop.

For most uses a dmt fine/extra fine with a strop to finish will be heaps.
Will put a shaving sharp but still slightly toothy edge only really need to go sharper for slicing style knife or razors

i've got a 3 stone kit. but on a hunt i have one of the walther units, has both a ceramic and tungsten hone. good for touch ups

Butchers' steels are not for removing metal or changing the shape of the edge. They are used to simply re-straighten the bent or feathered edge on a knife.

Diamond sticks and likewise will sharpen and change edge profiles but if over used will eat your blade.

You don't need expensive gadgets. Various fine grades of emery paper laid on a bit of 4x2 will do. Work from courser to finer. When you get to the fine use soft strokes.

I use water stones and strops with emulsion on them.

A knife made out of half decent steel should easily last one full gutting and bone out of a deer.

The trick is not to let your knife get too blunt because then they require major work. Touch them up lightly after every use. Maintaining an edge is easier than making an edge.

I recently switched to using a Japanese waterstone on a friend's advice. I would recommend not wasting your time with anything under 3000 grit. I have a 1000/6000 and the 1000 side wears too fast and gets a concave on it (although it was great on a small axe). The 6000 is really sweet though and I could/have spent all day lovingly polishing an edge or two on there. If you get a waterstone go for 6000-8000 grit and remember to buy and use a leveling stone regularly. That would be good for improving a factory edge out of the box. Also get on youtube if you haven't used one before as it is a slightly different method.

All that aside I think the waterstone was too much of a culture shock for me and I'm going to eventually go back to a hard whetstone and butcher's steel for maintaining my knives.

NNNJJJAAAAAA!!!!
Dammit @viper now I have to buy another knife and it's all your fault!!!

Originally Posted by Lore

NNNJJJAAAAAA!!!!
Dammit @viper now I have to buy another knife and it's all your fault!!!

Lol, sorry mate. If your looking for something try the Superior Swords website as they have 50 % off all the Kizlyar Supreme folding knifes at the moment. Made in Russia, good steel and built like a tank.
I brought one a few weeks back, seriously made knife, check them out.