Thread: Knife sharpener - Scary sharp or Wicked Edge

I sharpen as a side business to making knives and sheaths, I have used and still use some of theses, lansky (don’t use anymore), oil stones (don’t use anymore), diamond rods (emergency use), ceramic rods, scary sharp, spyderco sharpmaker, dc4, tormek, scary sharp, Japanese’s water stones, wicked edge, strops, steels and a 2 x 72 inch belt sander...
Different steels need different methods, the scary sharp is good for non “super steel” tripe knives, try and sharpen sv30 or Elmax on it and you won’t get the results you want, it’s very good for some type of knives and if you are happy with a toothy edge it’s fine. It’s downside is that you need to use it bolted to a bench in a shed, it makes a hell of a mess and sticks to high heaven.
The wicked edge you can sharpen anything, you can do it at the kitchen table, makes almost no mess, and need no extra chemicals to use it, with the right diamond plates yuk can get an edge sharper than anything anywhere. Period. But it’s damn expensive and it’s not fantastic on filleting knives. It works but I usually get out the scary sharp, or the tormek for them.
The tormek is a great piece of kit, but unless you get the Japanese waterstone it’s edge is no better than the scary sharp system, however you can also sharpen chisels, planes, Axes, shears and a hell of a lot more on it.

May not be much help but if you want send me three knives and I will sharpen them, label each one with the method I used and you can see what edge you like...I do charge $5 plus postage for the knives though but they will be sharp afterwards...
Shelley 021727546

Originally Posted by Shelley

I sharpen as a side business to making knives and sheaths, I have used and still use some of theses, lansky (don’t use anymore), oil stones (don’t use anymore), diamond rods (emergency use), ceramic rods, scary sharp, spyderco sharpmaker, dc4, tormek, scary sharp, Japanese’s water stones, wicked edge, strops, steels and a 2 x 72 inch belt sander...
Different steels need different methods, the scary sharp is good for non “super steel” tripe knives, try and sharpen sv30 or Elmax on it and you won’t get the results you want, it’s very good for some type of knives and if you are happy with a toothy edge it’s fine. It’s downside is that you need to use it bolted to a bench in a shed, it makes a hell of a mess and sticks to high heaven.
The wicked edge you can sharpen anything, you can do it at the kitchen table, makes almost no mess, and need no extra chemicals to use it, with the right diamond plates yuk can get an edge sharper than anything anywhere. Period. But it’s damn expensive and it’s not fantastic on filleting knives. It works but I usually get out the scary sharp, or the tormek for them.
The tormek is a great piece of kit, but unless you get the Japanese waterstone it’s edge is no better than the scary sharp system, however you can also sharpen chisels, planes, Axes, shears and a hell of a lot more on it.

May not be much help but if you want send me three knives and I will sharpen them, label each one with the method I used and you can see what edge you like...I do charge $5 plus postage for the knives though but they will be sharp afterwards...
Shelley 021727546

How much difference does the japanese water stone make to the tormek over the one supplied?,I have a t4 bushcraft coming and see they make a water stone for that size machine.

New Ruixin Pro ($30 on TradeMe) in action on my wife's just finished kitchen knife.
So far this system works really well for me, as I am bad with a sharpening stone doing freehand sharpening..



A Happy New year to everyone

The ordinary stone tops out at 1000, the waterstone is good for 4000, no good for removal, purely for refining the edge.

Originally Posted by Shelley

I sharpen as a side business to making knives and sheaths, I have used and still use some of theses, lansky (don’t use anymore), oil stones (don’t use anymore), diamond rods (emergency use), ceramic rods, scary sharp, spyderco sharpmaker, dc4, tormek, scary sharp, Japanese’s water stones, wicked edge, strops, steels and a 2 x 72 inch belt sander...
Different steels need different methods, the scary sharp is good for non “super steel” tripe knives, try and sharpen sv30 or Elmax on it and you won’t get the results you want, it’s very good for some type of knives and if you are happy with a toothy edge it’s fine. It’s downside is that you need to use it bolted to a bench in a shed, it makes a hell of a mess and sticks to high heaven.
The wicked edge you can sharpen anything, you can do it at the kitchen table, makes almost no mess, and need no extra chemicals to use it, with the right diamond plates yuk can get an edge sharper than anything anywhere. Period. But it’s damn expensive and it’s not fantastic on filleting knives. It works but I usually get out the scary sharp, or the tormek for them.
The tormek is a great piece of kit, but unless you get the Japanese waterstone it’s edge is no better than the scary sharp system, however you can also sharpen chisels, planes, Axes, shears and a hell of a lot more on it.

May not be much help but if you want send me three knives and I will sharpen them, label each one with the method I used and you can see what edge you like...I do charge $5 plus postage for the knives though but they will be sharp afterwards...
Shelley 021727546

Shelly, you are pretty schooled up but wondering if you have investigated the ezesharp from aussie which I rate very highly as sharp is a part of my hobbys and work.
The good thing about ezesharp is you are not restricted to one type of stone.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

I will give it a look, always interested in trying something new.

Originally Posted by Shelley

I sharpen as a side business to making knives and sheaths, I have used and still use some of theses, lansky (don’t use anymore), oil stones (don’t use anymore), diamond rods (emergency use), ceramic rods, scary sharp, spyderco sharpmaker, dc4, tormek, scary sharp, Japanese’s water stones, wicked edge, strops, steels and a 2 x 72 inch belt sander...
Different steels need different methods, the scary sharp is good for non “super steel” tripe knives, try and sharpen sv30 or Elmax on it and you won’t get the results you want, it’s very good for some type of knives and if you are happy with a toothy edge it’s fine. It’s downside is that you need to use it bolted to a bench in a shed, it makes a hell of a mess and sticks to high heaven.
The wicked edge you can sharpen anything, you can do it at the kitchen table, makes almost no mess, and need no extra chemicals to use it, with the right diamond plates yuk can get an edge sharper than anything anywhere. Period. But it’s damn expensive and it’s not fantastic on filleting knives. It works but I usually get out the scary sharp, or the tormek for them.
The tormek is a great piece of kit, but unless you get the Japanese waterstone it’s edge is no better than the scary sharp system, however you can also sharpen chisels, planes, Axes, shears and a hell of a lot more on it.

May not be much help but if you want send me three knives and I will sharpen them, label each one with the method I used and you can see what edge you like...I do charge $5 plus postage for the knives though but they will be sharp afterwards...
Shelley 021727546

I use these. No bolts required.

https://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/irwin...-pack/p/142936