Looking at a knife sharpening system - anyone used both and can comment?
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Looking at a knife sharpening system - anyone used both and can comment?
One never seems to see these knife sharpening systems coming up for sale second hand, that tells me they are either really good value and no one wants to part with them...or they are junk.
Me, well I am one of the old fashioned ones that use a sandstone water wheel and carborundum stone and a quality steel...advice I would give to anyone sharpening knives is to get a jewelers loupe and closely inspect what you are doing.
Geoff from Hawera Rewinds makes the Scary Sharp, give him a call and hear how good they are, he’s a good dude and a keen shotgunner
FWIW I couldnt sharpen a knife worth a shit with any method, prior to modern systems. I have tried the lanskys and just about every other sharpener out there apart from the scary sharp.Still had poor results.
Bought a wicked edge while I was overseas a year ago. I now easily get the sharpest knives I have handled. Simple, accurate and enjoyable. Especially when working carbon steel blades.
I now get enough people asking for their knives to be tickled up, I could almost start a small business[emoji16]
The only thing I dont like about the wicked edge, I have, is it takes a knack to get long thin blades like filleting knives to the standard I can get shorter blades.
Dont know much about the scary sharp but I have heard they're top notch and may even be a better system when it comes to longer blades.
My wicked edge was pricey but I got excellent results straight away. I have added plenty of strops, paste and stones to my kit over time and I would say it owes me nearly $800 Nz to replace.
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You can buy the clamp, stone holder and stone cheaper separately than in a kit. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by muzr257
Basic kit is $420....separately $250
Having a blade rigidly clamped at bench height and with the edge facing outwards is not a system I could trust myself with.
Why pay $hundreds...at least at this price one can then decide if it is the system they want to follow...where the below system would not work for me is at the angle I sharpen at the blade clamp would be in the way.
https://www.trademe.co.nz/home-livin...5aec6e7196-001
My brother bought 1 of those cheap chinese systems. Stones are rubbish. Whole cradle frame is floppy and rubbish. Stone holder broke very easily and no protection from cutting yourself.
This is the best and most reasonably priced system in the market I have used.
Really great people to deal with even though they are aussies.
I used this in the early nineties when I was muelsing to sharpen the shears.
I bought one for myself and now got a few mates using them.
Awesome bit of kit
https://ezesharp.com.au/product/ezes...0mm-flip-over/
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Theres a good video in there of how it works to.Quote:
Originally Posted by andyanimal31
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That thing looks the goods!:thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by andyanimal31
I assume you have to contact them directly as there website will not ship to nz.?Quote:
Originally Posted by andyanimal31
These sharpeners of which I have the old and new models[the latter is still in its box] have a serious flaw.Their name sums it up.Travelled over to Hawera to see the man before I purchased. Makes no promises he cant keep.You are onto your 5th beast and your mate is still hacking up his first one. My 2C. 90/100 NZ hunters cant sharpen a knife for quids. Quality kit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Maca49
phil -I bought the plastic predecessor unit and still have it .whilst its a bit flimsy never the less if i concentrate and take my time i can produce a bloody wicked edge.Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil_H
eldest son much to his regret thought my efforts on my boning blade werent as good as i thought till point went clean through his flash leather shoe into his toe .sat there sipped ma beer andsaid big boys dont cry!
I may well purchase this unit of TM and look to mounting it solidly!
fixed it :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by muzza
Amen, when I bought one of the Chinese sharpening kits I mounted it to a bit of decking timber which I can clamp to my bench or remove easily, and I either have it facing away from me or at 90 degrees to where I'm standing, as I'm always wary of feeding my hand to a freshly sharpened knifeQuote:
Originally Posted by Puffin
I see your wire and cardboard and raise you regularly cutting on the marble counter top.... know have chips in my nice vitronox skinner that i 'donated' to the kitchenQuote:
Originally Posted by dannyb
I sharpen as a side business to making knives and sheaths, I have used and still use some of theses, lansky (don’t use anymore), oil stones (don’t use anymore), diamond rods (emergency use), ceramic rods, scary sharp, spyderco sharpmaker, dc4, tormek, scary sharp, Japanese’s water stones, wicked edge, strops, steels and a 2 x 72 inch belt sander...
Different steels need different methods, the scary sharp is good for non “super steel” tripe knives, try and sharpen sv30 or Elmax on it and you won’t get the results you want, it’s very good for some type of knives and if you are happy with a toothy edge it’s fine. It’s downside is that you need to use it bolted to a bench in a shed, it makes a hell of a mess and sticks to high heaven.
The wicked edge you can sharpen anything, you can do it at the kitchen table, makes almost no mess, and need no extra chemicals to use it, with the right diamond plates yuk can get an edge sharper than anything anywhere. Period. But it’s damn expensive and it’s not fantastic on filleting knives. It works but I usually get out the scary sharp, or the tormek for them.
The tormek is a great piece of kit, but unless you get the Japanese waterstone it’s edge is no better than the scary sharp system, however you can also sharpen chisels, planes, Axes, shears and a hell of a lot more on it.
May not be much help but if you want send me three knives and I will sharpen them, label each one with the method I used and you can see what edge you like...I do charge $5 plus postage for the knives though but they will be sharp afterwards...
Shelley 021727546
How much difference does the japanese water stone make to the tormek over the one supplied?,I have a t4 bushcraft coming and see they make a water stone for that size machine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shelley
New Ruixin Pro ($30 on TradeMe) in action on my wife's just finished kitchen knife.
So far this system works really well for me, as I am bad with a sharpening stone doing freehand sharpening..
Attachment 127228
A Happy New year to everyone:)
Shelly, you are pretty schooled up but wondering if you have investigated the ezesharp from aussie which I rate very highly as sharp is a part of my hobbys and work.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shelley
The good thing about ezesharp is you are not restricted to one type of stone.
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All of these sharpening systems produce micro bevels. Not much good if you have knives ground to or prefer a convex edge.
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The ordinary stone tops out at 1000, the waterstone is good for 4000, no good for removal, purely for refining the edge.
I will give it a look, always interested in trying something new.
That’s where the 2x72 belt sander comes into play!Quote:
Originally Posted by hotbarrels
I use these. No bolts required.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shelley
https://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/irwin...-pack/p/142936
Agreed. That’s how all mine get sharpened now. Would like to make up a leather strop belt for my belt grinder.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shelley
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Knives flat ground to 0 are. Fine on traditional wet stones, convex not so much. Personally I think convex edged knives are a pita, juice isn't worth the squeeze.Quote:
Originally Posted by hotbarrels
Knives flat ground to 0 are ..... what?Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick-D
The main reason I went away from “sharpening systems” and took the time to learn to convex sharpen (even on flat ground blades, therefore technically a convex micro bevel) is that once in the field and forced to stone a blade (as opposed to strop or steel a blade), unless you can perfectly match the angles established by your sharpening system, you will never get a sharp edge again until you have ground your finely tuned micro bevel to that of your “natural hand”. Therefore, you are (IMHO) better served to spend the time and learn to hand sharpen your knives. In doing so, if you have to sharpen in the field your blade is already “set to your hand”.
If you are ‘sharpening for others’ then a ‘standardised’ angle profile is probably better.
As a young lad I was always astounded at how sharp my granddad and my dad could get their knives for home kill (my granddad turned to home butchery during the depression). A couple of minutes spent on a spit covered water stone and a few swipes with the old school super smooth steel had the forearm shaved as smooth as a new borns bum.
I still have a couple of their knives - they are all convex ground.
There is a reason why ‘jigs’ (sharpening systems) have been developed for micro bevel sharpening - it’s not easy to achieve repeatedly by hand.
With practice, a convex edge is much easier to achieve by hand than a micro bevel.
Therefore, if you read between the lines, I’m just lazy and taking the easy option by convex grinding.
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I think I have seem them for sale, need to use compound or maybe oil...also if you get them keep them sealed in a plastic bag or ice cream box as you don’t what grit getting into it.Quote:
Originally Posted by hotbarrels
Cork belts is an option too.
While not as durable, I prefer simple flat grinds to convex grind edges as I can maintain them with a stone easily enough
Yeah most hand sharpened edge bevels are going to be convex anyway. Also for the cost of those systems you can have a set of top quality stones.Quote:
Originally Posted by hotbarrels
When talking convex grinds I'm talking a tall primary bevel grind like the bark rivers. There are definate positives to them but I do thinkthe out weight the(comparitive) hassle of sharpening
What about these things: https://knifesharpners.nz/
