I'm currently looking into the lansky knife sharpening system is it any good or is there one out there that better ?
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I'm currently looking into the lansky knife sharpening system is it any good or is there one out there that better ?
been using lansky 3-stone system for about 20 years, outdoor and kitchen knives.
very happy with it, consistent, not super fast, but very good results.
pretty easy to make a scissor sharpening jig for the lansky as well.
I use a selection of stones and steels, maintaining a constant angle on both is key. If your not OCD on things that cut being sharp then the lanski or any similar system that controls your angle is probably a good idea. Im a fan of a "micro bevel" on hard knives but it does mean you have to be gentile/careful hocking or cutting to bone.
Got a soft knife no sharpening system will help you;)
I use a shone to sharpen and then a steel in between sharpenings to straighten the edge
I use an edge pro,
Does a great job an gets my knives "scary sharp" as the misses says
http://www.edgeproinc.com/Apex-Model...Pro-System-c3/
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Scary sharp. Scary Sharp - Constant Angle Sharpening System have one of these first use takes a bit but after that wicked as
Ring Geoff and have a chat with him after looking at the vid's. Make sure you keep a firm grip on your knives after sharpening as the old method's dont compete. Gutting/skinning a mob of goats 6-10 requires only 1 flick of the steel when using the Svord drop point to keep up that edge. Amazing tool .Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy
I use different grades of sandpaper and the method from the svord website
I use the edge pro apex as DAF pointed out, I'm sharpening the misses knives all the time as she's a butcher. Good bit of kit
I'm using one of these Lansky Sharpeners :: Blade Medic Pocket Sharpener
Only because I'm too much of a hopeless case to learn how to use a proper sharpener :P
Hand Convexing a knife edge Demonstration/Tutorial Part 1 - YouTube
This is what I do :)
hey guys thanks for sharing your ideas and i was about to buy a good sharpening kit then my radiator on my ute needs fixing 450 bux later.... TeRei mate that method sounds bloody brilliant to a poor man haha, i like it sounds simple and its cheap thanks for sharing
Double end grinder, buffing wheel one end with a basic jeweller s mix on it for finishing, other end of the thing is an off the shelf linishing belt setup. Start to finish 60 seconds tops, and those fuckers are sharrrrp.
Takes about an extra 90 seconds to do an axe as you gotta change the belt. And then that mother is same same.
Another vote for the edge pro system, a workmate is making me a knife currently ( mrs is getting me it for my birthday), he uses a linisher and gets them razor sharp. Will post up pics of new knife when I get it
A mate showed me his trick this weekend whilst on a hunt. Accu-sharp, the white/blue one - AccuSharp Knife Sharpeners - Sharpen Knives, Cutting Tools, Garden Tools, Scissors, Axes - AccuSharp Filet Knife Sharpener (010)
Works dang well.
I've always used oilstone/diamond file/diamond steel - but his way was so much faster for a similar (possibly better) end result
Those things DESTROY knives! After a while they get such a shoulder on them(the knife) that even that sharpener wont work anymore and you have to spend hours on the stone ripping the shoulder off.Quote:
Originally Posted by peril 787b
a wee tickleup on a quality oilstone and then a steel and thats all one should need......all these so called knife sharpeners serve to do is ruin good knives Attachment 5478Attachment 5479
I have just purchased a Scary Sharp System saw it at the Sika show in Taupo last weekend very impressed not cheap but very good check out his websiteQuote:
Originally Posted by turner nz
I'd better not say what I mainly use, there would be tears. :D
lovely knife...Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinehunter0
In the Kitchen just to keep an edge on the knives I use a Warthog V Sharpener ( South African) has 2 Diamond stones that form a V that you can set a 17, 20, 25 degrees depending on what the knife is to be used for. My hunting knives I use a oil stone then touch up with a steel or Diamond steel. My wife sharpened a bread and Butter Knife that had no edge to the point where it would slice a tomato.
such a pityyou cheapen the sense you speak with the shit written in redQuote:
Originally Posted by Alpinehunter0
but for the grace of god there go you!
ive had 44yrs in this field and heres a challenge put up or shut up!
Lansky and a leather strop board with some compound to make it very sharp. I use a buck flipstik in the field.
The Wicked Sharp system is probably better than the lansky but its way pricier.
I sharpen freehand on waterstones but used an Edge Pro Apex for a couple of years before that. Great tool for learning the mechanics of sharpening and how different angles and grit levels affect how the knife cuts. Mine has been gathering dust lately so you are welcome to try it for as long as you want - PM me if interested.
I have various systems that I interchange, oil stones now only get used to put an initial edge on chisels and planes that I buy at the markets (good steel but usually some bastard has buggered the edge), Japanese water are good if slow, puts a nice polish on the blade but, diamonds I use if there is either damage or I need to remove a LOT of metal, then I go for ceramics, usually I end up going with the spyderco triangle sharpener thingy (takes practice, first few times I used it I took ok edges and made them completely blunt), then I strop with yellow compound on a piece of leather.
It takes time to put a good edge on a blade that will last, also depends a lot on the grind, steel and tempering done to it.
Reading through all this, I'm beginning to think that I've been doing it all wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgetman
Attachment 56627
No wonder a knife only lasts around 3 months
My kitchen knives get run across the base of whatever crockery is at hand. Works a treat.Quote:
Originally Posted by oraki
To be fair, I do use a mixture of oil stone, steel and diamond stones for my hunting knives. Just find the angle grinder is quicker and handier for work knives. Plus the serrations left behind cut the silage wrap much easier
Edge Pro Apex to put the edge on my knives, and a ceramic steel to use between sharpening.
I use different systems depending on the knife, the knife steel quality and the job to do.
All the cheaper knifes get an accusharp treatment to get the beginning of a good angle and then can be finished on a spyderco Tri stone or a large dmt Dimond stone. I have a lansky sharpener but it slow to put in action and you have to remember the angle setting on each knife. The little lansky wooden box with the two ceramic rods is an excellent system that I bought to a few girlfriends who wanted sharp knifes but did not know how to get there. .
I had one particular cold steel Bowie that I could not get sharp. A friend got me a Dimond steel with three different grade of grit. And now that knife is super sharp.
I mainly use pukko style knives and they sharpen on the bevel so are super easy to get consitant angle free hand on any flat stone really. And within just a few stroke they are back in action, even if going hard around bones. I have a little dmt double sides stone that I carry in my pack for that.
This bloke is very interesting
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c4oA...em-subs_digest
Lansky to put correct angle if different from what I want, then a spyderco, followed by a strop, never a steel.
I use a water stone - double sided Suehiro one with the different compounds 1000/3000 - and then a double sided leather strop with compound that I had got from Top-Gear. that gets my main hunting knife, a Svord 15N20 steel? sharp enough to cut paper without catching. I have a little Knives of Alaska Featherlite Hunter folder that is D2 steel - that also sharpens up really, really nicely with this system. The strop really polishes that edge and significantly improves it from what I could get with either a fine oilstone or fine waterstone alone. Fully recommended.
Any input from those that use Elmax or 3v steels?
Elmax and 3V exactly the same as you are doing. I use both the white and black compounds on them and the CBN/Bark River emulsions. The emulsions are quicker.Quote:
Originally Posted by Speill
I bought the Lansky 3 stone system and then added the ultra fine stone and the leather strop. Its fantastic for keeping your knives razor sharp but if I have got a knife that's really poked I use a wet stone first otherwise it takes to long.
Spyderco tri sharpener and leather strop.
lansky diamond paddle folding hone for under $40. Is great for field work edge.,just requires a little practice to maintain angle....never use a good blade on bone.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rushy
I bought a Tormek T-8 recently for sharpening both knives and hand tools.
Terrific kit, works as advertised.
