Thread: Knives for the Roar

Couple of previously posted and one just finished.

All are full tang with 4mm thick O1 tool steel that has been heat treated and then tempered (twice) to produce a Rockwell C of 59, this I feel is the ideal hardness as it takes and holds an excellent edge but is field sharpenable with normal equipment and is more likely to roll, rather than chip, if you are unlucky enough to slip and hit a bone.
Being 4mm means there is enough steel that they will take any abuse that goes there way but still take a very sharp and useable edge.

All have wood handles (small drop point is rimu, Nessmuk is kwila, and the big knife is a type of cyprus), and have G10 liners (the nessmuk also has copper), and have brass tong tubes with brass and stainless or full copper loveless bolts, and marine grade epoxy.

Two come with ambidextrous kydex sheaths and one has forest green leather set up for right hand carry.
Nessmuk style knife $125

Overall 17 cm long with an 8 cm handle, has copper liners between G10 and steel, extremely useful shape.

Small Loveless inspired drop point $110

Overall 20.5 cm long with 11 cm handle.

This one is a wild card, was made before I got my new equipment, but never got around to finishing it until now.
25 cm long with 11 cm handle and 14 cm blade.
This never really turned out the way I had intended, its got a big drop point blade with a slight recurve shape that never really went to the full recurve and a super comfortable ergonomic handle that practically glows in the sunlight, really nice golden colour.
The brass tong tube was installed at a slight angle (I now have a drill press to prevent this) and as such the wood at the very rear cracked as it went in, this has been clasped and glued and sanded and reglued and filled several times, unless you are using the pommel end of the knife to smash open oysters you should not have a problem with it. I have added one more layer of glue since taking this photo, gap is gone, and knife is now drying.

The blade has a high saber grind but comes down into a super useable edge that slices like a dream.

The OD green kydex sheath is set up for scout carry but could easily be modified to regular carry as well, the kydex has super tight retention, a thumb press, extra eyelids, a slight drain hole, snd makes asn audible "click" when pressed home.
Because of the crack I am letting it go for a song - $75.











Thanks for looking, and as always I am happy to do custom work or make kydex sheaths for your regular knives.
Shelley

How are you heat treating your 01 man? Do you soak or just heat to critical and quench? Am making a knife in 01 at the moment, if I could get a rc of 59 odd I'd be stoked

He sends it to a heat treatment outfit

I get it professionally done in a vacuum furnace to eliminate decarbonisation, the double soak to temper the blade and reduce the Rockwell. Once all done it gets tested to make sure it was done right, I have had it once independently tested and have had the Rockwell confirmed so am confident of the work.

Happy to chat about knife making if you are keen, swap ideas etc.

Ahh awesome man, Yeah I flicked an email to HHT in henderson but have yet to hear back from them.
Got a couple of blanks knocked out, good fun but sure takes a bit of elbow grease doing it all by hand

Hmm thinking about that small drop point...
Jane you sold it yet @Shelley?

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Originally Posted by puku

Hmm thinking about that small drop point...
Jane you sold it yet @Shelley?

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

All yours if you want it, flicked you a pm.
Shelley

Originally Posted by Nick-D

Ahh awesome man, Yeah I flicked an email to HHT in henderson but have yet to hear back from them.
Got a couple of blanks knocked out, good fun but sure takes a bit of elbow grease doing it all by hand

I use ssm.co.nz, only problem is they have a minimum charge.

Originally Posted by Nick-D

Ahh awesome man, Yeah I flicked an email to HHT in henderson but have yet to hear back from them.
Got a couple of blanks knocked out, good fun but sure takes a bit of elbow grease doing it all by hand

I use ssm.co.nz, only problem is they have a minimum charge.

Make sure you polish all the sanding marks out before you heat treat. Those blades look like they need more finishing work. Just being honest but keep it up

Small drop point sold.

Originally Posted by scoped

Make sure you polish all the sanding marks out before you heat treat. Those blades look like they need more finishing work. Just being honest but keep it up

Ive taken mine to a clean 600 wet finish pre HT, and will finish at 800 with a 600 grit satin

I take mine to 1200 grit wet and dry, although on the spine I can now take to 5000 with new equipment, done that on one so far, problem is the heat treat can be a bit unforgiving, the guys usually do industrial equipment not blades, also they usually clamp the blades in the tempering process to prevent warpage, all of this means the blades get a bit knocked around, also they come back covered in burnt oil which needs to be sanded off, they head blasted them once, against my wishes, which mean they were clean but left mico pits on one of them.
Also before heat treat you need to not take the blade to the point where It is sharp, leave about 1 mm thickness then finish shaping and sharpening afterwards.
Once I get the knives finished I usually test them in the kitchen, but before I ship I give them a big clean, might need to do that before I take photos next time;-)

Hello. Are any of these still available or do you have anymore?

Keen on the one with the crack in the handle ?
Can you PM me, if it’s still available ?
Cheers