Thread: Led Lenser MH10 replacement

I've had this Led Lenser MH10 for a very long time
Used it a lot with work and play
Recharged it hundreds of times

Last night i was carrying out some meat and i had some issues that were clearly a loose or damaged wire
Made a fix this morning to get me through the next few weeks on a remote access building job

So what is the new go too that does exactly what the MH10 did ?
Just newer and better ?
Maybe a red light as well would be nice
Still like the 18650 cell because i can have a spare
But a sealed rechargeable woyld be ok

What's the best
No compromises

LED Lenser has a 7 year warranty possibly still within that period?

Fenix HM65R-T is very nice. Only negatives I can think of is no red led, doesn't fit over a climbing helmet and no focusing beam. That aside, its an incredible wee unit. I prefer it to my MH10 as its more compact and comfortable but have to revert back to the MH10 for climbing missions. The HM65R is comparable albeit slightly inferior but will fit on a helmet. Also your LED Lenser 18650 may not fit in the Fenix, mine doesn't.

Ive got a wee fenix that has a single AA to power it...3 power levels and its awesome light to walk around with,normally only on the lower levels... got a bigger coast one but like the other types the wire between battery bank and light gets dodgy after awhile.

https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.n...e/cyansky-hs6r
I gave up on Led lenser, the quality now isn't what it once was. I have a Nightcore HC65 - it is great when its going but can short out on the end cap. Bought an Olight very good battery life but complicated to use, gave it to a mate. So still looking and think the Cyansky HS6R might be the one

+1 for the Cyansky. I bought one not too long ago from piercing the darkness and am very happy with it. It has a solid body and the strap is considerably more robust than the LED Lenser that i have. There is a range of power settings and a red light setting. My opinion is that it is good value for the money. I can't vouch for the longevity of the unit but my first few months have been good.

I got this last weekend so can't vouch for the long term use, but it seems to fill all your requirements. 18650 cell, red light and it's pretty darn bright and I'm very happy with it, used it for a possum shoot and went all night on the setting below max with plenty to spare.

https://www.torpedo7.co.nz/products/...eable-headlamp

Forgot to add link

Nz made GLOWORM lights

I changed from an MH10 to the MH11 at the start of winter this year as I managed to damaged the corded when it got caught in the car seat rails. relegated it to home use only after that as I could see bear wire.

The MH11 is probably going to be more reliable given that it dose not have the battery case at the back and a wire between them, however I'm finding it did take some getting used to the extra weight on the front. dose have colour LED options but its (way) more complicated to operate. The variable output mode is great and the one I use all the time.
It has a greater range than the MH10 but the flood diameter is not as great. So when bushwalking I could have the MH10 wound in a little while the mh11 is still at full wide.
also like that you can pre program the light steps as I found the mh10 low was too low and medium was too high for use in bed reading.
Z

Thanks team
Some really good suggestions here
I arildited up my mh10 to get through next week on a remote off grid building site
And then I will buy something new and the mh10 will be a spare

Cheers

What's the damaged wire exactly? I just took the battery case apart on my LL headlamp and fully resoldered the connections in it - corrosion had got in at some stage in it's life and I got it free off some good bastards on this forum, one who gifted the lamp and another who got it back working. The corrosion obviously was a bit more serious than the first dealing to could solve, I ended up having to solder new metal into the battery terminals, reconnect the internal circuit to the internal power cable and on/off switch and give it the complete defuzz and overhaul to get the board functioning again. I'm amazed it still worked actually, a fairly simple robust design.

Shouldn't be too much to get it fixed and running proper like.