Reccomend a muzzle break for me...

Hi all... I have a 284 Winchester on a 25.5 inch medium/sportier type barrel. There are a lot of muzzle break brands/types/options in New Zealand. Where to start?! The goal obviously is to cut recoil to observe splash on the target. Any suggestions?

Terminator T2 made by Kiwi Greg. Best there is.

Yeah mate, just get a terminator

Terminator.

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I run a Terminator, great brake.

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Terminator T2

Best recoil reduction on the planet.

I have Dean Maisey Quatromax for my rem mag and it’s sweet. Heard nothing but good about the T2 aswell.

Yea mate t2 terminator is the way to go. Have one on my 300 win mag and the break makes it really nice to shoot

Don't get a side exhaust brake - they have to be timed to the barrel/action which costs more money and means that it is more awkward retiming the brake after you have taken it off the muzzle when you want to do some maintenance on the rifle. Get a radial brake - cheaper to install and none of the timing problems associated with side exhaust brakes. The internal design of the brake is important for accuracy potential but you will have to check that out on the internet. I use both types, radial and side exhaust and prefer the radial for the reasons above - and there are no problems with dust clouds caused by the radial brake exhausting at the bottom - that is an internet reality created problem unless you are lying on the floor of a dust desert in Iraq. Be aware of how small the muzzle will be turned down for threading - the closer to the original diameter the threaded barrel is the better because the internal diameter of the bore may bell out (very bad for accuracy) if the muzzle is turned down too much for threading. Different kinds of manufacturing processes (hammer forging, button or cut rifling) of barrels have different levels of vulnerability to this effect. Do get a brake because they make a big difference to recoil but if you fire the rifle without hearing protection you will regret it for the rest of your life due to the probable hearing damage you will suffer. You may get a bit of flack from you mates as well if you don't warn them before you take the shot.

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Originally Posted by rupert

Don't get a side exhaust brake - they have to be timed to the barrel/action which costs more money and means that it is more awkward retiming the brake after you have taken it off the muzzle when you want to do some maintenance on the rifle. Get a radial brake - cheaper to install and none of the timing problems associated with side exhaust brakes. The internal design of the brake is important for accuracy potential but you will have to check that out on the internet. I use both types, radial and side exhaust and prefer the radial for the reasons above - and there are no problems with dust clouds caused by the radial brake exhausting at the bottom - that is an internet reality created problem unless you are lying on the floor of a dust desert in Iraq. Be aware of how small the muzzle will be turned down for threading - the closer to the original diameter the threaded barrel is the better because the internal diameter of the bore may bell out (very bad for accuracy) if the muzzle is turned down too much for threading. Different kinds of manufacturing processes (hammer forging, button or cut rifling) of barrels have different levels of vulnerability to this effect. Do get a brake because they make a big difference to recoil but if you fire the rifle without hearing protection you will regret it for the rest of your life due to the probable hearing damage you will suffer. You may get a bit of flack from you mates as well if you don't warn them before you take the shot.

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Thank you. PM sent

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Originally Posted by rupert

Don't get a side exhaust brake - they have to be timed to the barrel/action which costs more money and means that it is more awkward retiming the brake after you have taken it off the muzzle when you want to do some maintenance on the rifle. Get a radial brake - cheaper to install and none of the timing problems associated with side exhaust brakes. The internal design of the brake is important for accuracy potential but you will have to check that out on the internet. I use both types, radial and side exhaust and prefer the radial for the reasons above - and there are no problems with dust clouds caused by the radial brake exhausting at the bottom - that is an internet reality created problem unless you are lying on the floor of a dust desert in Iraq. Be aware of how small the muzzle will be turned down for threading - the closer to the original diameter the threaded barrel is the better because the internal diameter of the bore may bell out (very bad for accuracy) if the muzzle is turned down too much for threading. Different kinds of manufacturing processes (hammer forging, button or cut rifling) of barrels have different levels of vulnerability to this effect. Do get a brake because they make a big difference to recoil but if you fire the rifle without hearing protection you will regret it for the rest of your life due to the probable hearing damage you will suffer. You may get a bit of flack from you mates as well if you don't warn them before you take the shot.

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Disagree, radial brakes are shit. Get a directional and get it timed

T2 or have you considered a supressor

Radial brakes cover you in dust and all sorts of rubbish they blow up off the ground. Side exhaust brakes don't do this. I had no issues with cleaning my rifle with a Terminator brake. I had no reason to take it off. Not sure what rupert ment about taking it off for maintenance.

Terminator T2

T2:cool:

Ok... side exhaust brakes. Do these need to be tuned as mentioned earlier?

The person cutting the muzzle thread will do it. If they can't tune it right they shouldn't be cutting the thread in the first place.

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Originally Posted by Gerardo

Ok... side exhaust brakes. Do these need to be tuned as mentioned earlier?

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Originally Posted by stug

The person cutting the muzzle thread will do it. If they can't tune it right they shouldn't be cutting the thread in the first place.

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As Stug said tho "timed" or "indxed" is a better word than tuned....there is no tuning required, with the brake "timed" to horizontal you would have to take the thing on and off twice a day every day for 5 years to have a problem and that problem would still exist with a radial...worn threads.
It really is a non issue.....once you have it on you wont want to take it off.

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Originally Posted by veitnamcam

As Stug said tho "timed" or "indxed" is a better word than tuned....there is no tuning required, with the brake "timed" to horizontal you would have to take the thing on and off twice a day every day for 5 years to have a problem and that problem would still exist with a radial...worn threads.
It really is a non issue.....once you have it on you wont want to take it off.

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Thank you.

Have a t3 with t2 on it no problems with timing when removing for cleaning, also have a tt for ctr which is a 2 piece no smith timing needed. Love them great products

Just use a suppressor. That's all my .284 needs.

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Originally Posted by Kudu

Just use a suppressor. That's all my .284 needs.

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I did think that too, but she would end up pretty long