Thread: Sharpening a chisel

So the other day, at the flea markets I picked up an old rusted chisel, it was $2, too rusted to see the brand name.

I took it home, cleaned it up, got most of the paint and rust off and it turns out to be a Ward and Payne knife, very good Sheffield tool company, eventually acquired by Wilkinson sword. Started in 1803 and become Ward and P in 1850 or so, this one looks to be from the 1950’s which means it was made from A2, which Ward had absolutely nailed the heat treatment for.

However this one showed a distinct lack of care, the grind was off, the edge was chipped and the angle was set at 35 degrees, I personally prefer my chisels to be 25, but I can do any angle.

So first I set the tormek at 220 grit and got rid of the damage:
Attachment 145779

Bit more work at 220 and it was done
Attachment 145780

Then I switched to 1000 grit and got rid of the worst of the 220 scratch pattern
Attachment 145781

Tad more work
Attachment 145782

Then to finish I dropped in a 4000 grit wheel on the tormek
Attachment 145783

Mirror finish. The marks are a reflection from trees outside the window.

Nice and sharp now, bargain at $2.

By the way I sharpen chisels, same price as I do knives, $5 per piece, can do planer blades and scissors too.

Shelley 021727546

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How flat can you grind?
I prefer my trimming knives to be basicly flat from heel to edge but of course over many steelings and quick stoneings enevitably I end up with a shoulder that needs removed.

I can do perfectly flat, or I can do a slight hollow grind, both whilst keeping the blade cold, I can also do a convex grind on a belt sander, I need to dip the blade in water to keep it cool doing this or it can easily get too hot and bugger up the heat treatment, finally I can also do a scandi grind sharpening, this takes more time, especially if you want a mirror finish.