Thread: Show me your knives

Originally Posted by 40mm

Attachment 103757@rushy the e cat version

What are the backwards facing spikey bits for?

Originally Posted by Nick-D

What are the backwards facing spikey bits for?

to hold your Corn cobs

Originally Posted by Nick-D

What are the backwards facing spikey bits for?

@Nick-D and @dannyb those spikes are for intimidation factor.

Na seriously they are anchor points, the lanyard tab on these is about 4mm thick and tough like hell, those spikes are 10mm thick and mount onto a hand guard thats also thick as hell. There is a pic somewhere of a navy seal with one on his hip, must have been a gluten for punishment as they are heavy like a meat cleaver.

P.s. I am one tough son of a bitch now that I have this knife, dont fuck with me!

Originally Posted by 40mm

Here is my Buck master 184, this is THE knife for skinning small animals. Weight a ton, about 600g and the navy seals used them occasionally for anchors... anyway, I feel invincible when it's in my hand, watch out baddies cause Rambo is on the loose!Attachment 103746

So, now I can ask the question I always wanted to... what ARE those spikes for???

Originally Posted by Cordite

So, now I can ask the question I always wanted to... what ARE those spikes for???

Hand Guard for knife fighting..., only thing I can come up with

So I found this bloke selling his knives at a night market here in Punta Del Este (Uruguay)
You can check out his website by searching Willy Knives Uruguay.
This is a "Trapper B" made with N560 steel polished finish and the handle is Madera Itín which is a south american hardwood. Absolutely beautiful knives
The makers mark ( Willy R.O.U ) stands for Republica Oriental de Uruguay, which is the full and proper name for the country. He has a few others hes selling at the moment and I would buy them all if I didnt need a mortgage to fund it!

This is another of his. The model is "Practicó " also in N560 with Chital/Axis Deer antler for the scales. He also has one of these with a hardwood scales which is also very nice.





USD$300 if anyone is feeling spendy and wants something unique

Just got this one in

I’m new to NZH&S but thought I would share a couple of pics. Sadly made by my favourite Australian knife maker who’s no longer with us. Makers name engraved by hand ( no machine engraving). In D2

And another by same maker. This a larger camp knife with crocodile scabbard. D2 steel. Tapered tang. Plain but beautifully crafted. Gidgee handle and titanium bolster.

Here's a few more from my collection. Better photo of the Camp knife and matching Cleaver (both D2 with Titanium bolsters), small handy knife with Whale Tooth Ivory scales, and the knife I showed a photo of above I had engraved. All engraving is done with hand chisel.

Originally Posted by Southcity

Here's a few more from my collection. Better photo of the Camp knife and matching Cleaver (both D2 with Titanium bolsters), small handy knife with Whale Tooth Ivory scales, and the knife I showed a photo of above I had engraved. All engraving is done with hand chisel.
Attachment 106502
Attachment 106503
Attachment 106504
Attachment 106506
Attachment 106505

That Cleaver - priceless !!!!

After grinding up the little rabbit knife in the top of the picture below, I was impressed by the comfort of the 3/4 length buffalo horn handle and the finger scallop. Works extremely well in a range of grips maximising the versatility of the blade. So, I decided to have a go at making a compact flaying and boning knife to match.

The two new blades are O1 tool steel. Now this steel is a bit more complex in its heat treat requirements over the 1075/1084 type plan carbon I have been playing with so far, but I have just purchased a heat treat kiln so was looking to experiment!
Following internet based recommendations the blades were normalised three times with a quench on the last cycle, then hardened and tempered. Unfortunately, the anti-carburizing past that I used failed during the normalising heat cycles, and as a result I did lose a bit of carbon from the steel in the process. The heat treat should have yielded 60-61 HRC but a test by the local metallurgy lab have 58HRC. Still up there with most commercially produced blades, and it did make the blades easier to sharpen in comparison with the rabbit knife which I suspect is in the low 60's based on how long it took to get an edge on my water stones.

Blade surfaces was left as heat treated.



Then the next fun part was making my first ever kydex sheaths.
Kydex is wickedly expensive by my standards, so I hunted for some alternatives. Found a company selling 6'x4' sheets of ABS for around $70 so ordered that instead.
Watched a few youtube clips and then had a go.




Due to the slim, compact shape of the knives, I decided to try for a double stack ……..





All of this has been in an effort to keep my learning one step ahead of the boys (and a couple of their dad's) that come around on a Thursday to learn to build stuff in the shed.

Originally Posted by hotbarrels

After grinding up the little rabbit knife in the top of the picture below, I was impressed by the comfort of the 3/4 length buffalo horn handle and the finger scallop. Works extremely well in a range of grips maximising the versatility of the blade. So, I decided to have a go at making a compact flaying and boning knife to match.

The two new blades are O1 tool steel. Now this steel is a bit more complex in its heat treat requirements over the 1075/1084 type plan carbon I have been playing with so far, but I have just purchased a heat treat kiln so was looking to experiment!
Following internet based recommendations the blades were normalised three times with a quench on the last cycle, then hardened and tempered. Unfortunately, the anti-carburizing past that I used failed during the normalising heat cycles, and as a result I did lose a bit of carbon from the steel in the process. The heat treat should have yielded 60-61 HRC but a test by the local metallurgy lab have 58HRC. Still up there with most commercially produced blades, and it did make the blades easier to sharpen in comparison with the rabbit knife which I suspect is in the low 60's based on how long it took to get an edge on my water stones.

Blade surfaces was left as heat treated.

Attachment 106806

Then the next fun part was making my first ever kydex sheaths.
Kydex is wickedly expensive by my standards, so I hunted for some alternatives. Found a company selling 6'x4' sheets of ABS for around $70 so ordered that instead.
Watched a few youtube clips and then had a go.

Attachment 106807


Due to the slim, compact shape of the knives, I decided to try for a double stack ……..

Attachment 106808
Attachment 106809


All of this has been in an effort to keep my learning one step ahead of the boys (and a couple of their dad's) that come around on a Thursday to learn to build stuff in the shed.

Love the profile of that skinner man. Have one very similar in 01 as well sitting unfinished in the shed. Need to pull finger and smash out a couple more

After lurking on the forum for a few years I finally joined. I must say that I hold this forum responsible for starting me down the knife/ blade rabbit hole. Which all started with a thread on Bahcos...

Now rather than make a new thread, I thought I should ask this knife question here.

Has anyone had any good/bad experience with the Canadian belt knife pattern? It looks like it would be a knife that's not too big not to small.

For example the Grohmann #1 / Bird n Trout/ or Knives of Alaska Yukon?







The steel is not the best in those examples, it was more a question on the pattern than a particular knife.

Cheers