If you need a sheath I could do you a little kydex job, might be able to get rid of the chip for you as well at the same time, well after I have made the sheath, not exactly the same time but pretty damn close!
Printable View
If you need a sheath I could do you a little kydex job, might be able to get rid of the chip for you as well at the same time, well after I have made the sheath, not exactly the same time but pretty damn close!
I thought I would post a quick review of a new knife. After seeing photos of a few bark rivers on here I decided that I needed one! My requirements of a knife were primarily something of high quality that was going to last well, hold an edge and be lightweight as most of my hunting involves a large amount of walking. So I was tossing up between a few of their small EDC and neck knives but settled on the featherweight fox river with an elmax blade and black canvas micarta handle. When it arrived I was a little concerned that it would be too small for butchering deer but after using it it is fine for my purposes. It is almost like using a scalpel, is very sharp and seems to hold an edge well. I would recommend one for anyone looking for a knife but they are concerned about the weight and the issue of such a small knife being hard to use doesn't seem to be a problem as it is so sharp.
Attachment 120401
Attachment 120402
I would wax that sheath, looks a tad dry.
Elmax is very hard stuff, don’t sharpen it with a stone, you will want diamonds to get a decent edge once yours goes blunt.
Use water stones.
Thanks, yes a wax is a good idea . Any tips for sharpening?Quote:
Originally Posted by Shelley
Haha, diamond or stones? I've got a Japanese water stone which I normally use. Any tips on sharpening, 2 experienced knife guys one saying stones the other diamondsQuote:
Originally Posted by Tahr
Diamonds will eat your knife.
You want to maintain the convex grind on your Bark River so avoid putting a V edge on it.
Depends on the anniversaryQuote:
Originally Posted by Benj
thanks yes keen to maintain the convex grind, I have seen people suggesting using finegrit sandpaper on a soft backing like a mouse pad any thoughts on that?Quote:
Originally Posted by Tahr
Fine-grit wet’n’dry is excellent for this purpose. I can shave with a KaBar honed thusly, and have done so frequently.
How to sharpen a knife is like a mine field, like what’s the best caliber.
I’m a fan of a wet stone and learning to do it by hand but I maybe about to change my mind having see what Puffin has achieved with a simple home made jig.
The other change is types of steel that maybe too hard to sharpen with a wet stone and need diamond stones?
https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....v-steel-52926/
Depends on how much time you want to invest and what sort of grit you have, diamonds will not munch on elmax, not if you use a high grit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Benj
The other option to maintain your grind is to get a paint stirring stick, glue 1200 grit wet and dry sandpaper to it then run that away from you over the edge, follow the convex shape, takes some time but will do the job.
By overdoing the downward pressure the mouse pad method can easily end up taking too much off at the edge, taking the edge angle out to where you'd lose some of the slicey attributes that are supported with that thin blade stock and convex profile. Best if wanting to use a flexible abrasive to start out with a firmer backing material I'd say.
well Ive got some very good old oil stones...and a lansky set of ceramic rods...and a fancy wee jig thingy that holds small stones of various grades at correct angles too...what have I sharpened my knives with lately???? a piece of rangitata area rock/boulder that had been run over by tractor and heavy roller and split fairy straightly...Ive been looking at these for ages and finally stopped and picked one up....its that plurry hard you get no sandy grit off it when honing a knife,it polishes as it goes,if I change to a rougher piece of the face I can take more material off....the novelty factor hasnt worn off yet and knives are very sharp....might just be correct technique,but Im able to get stainless knives sharp too which has always been an issue with oil stones.
That’s pretty much how it was done in the dark ages Micky Duck, these days though diamonds are a sharpeners best friend, nothing wrong with what you are doing though, I have seen people sharpen knibes on the bottom of a coffee cup too!
yeah its hard case just how many of them are split so straight,,,Ive been known to pick up a river stone as desperate measure before when knife got very blunt but this is whole new level. being about 8" each way makes it easy to keep grind angle constant and not worry about off hand slipping over edge of knife (that hurts and takes 8-9 weeks for tip of finger to heal over).... the best bit of knife related kit I own is a mesh glove for off hand....Mrs got sick of carting me off to be sticthed up LOL.
Latest one, based on a Bark River but I can't remember which model.
Make a great hunting knife.
Might have it sold but if not it could be available.
Kitchen knife for my lovely wife next.Attachment 121010Attachment 121011
Flash as
that is very nice indeed.
Representing the ugly brigade. 22" OKC machete with ugly handcrafted handle, 14" blade Condor Barong with ugly marine ply handle and Becker Bk5 camp magnum knife. The original handles were too small for me. All high use ,the machete gets flogged doing fence clearing work,( most tools in the tropics get the 'rust patina' lol so I don't care) the barong goes on my backpack for hiking, the becker magnum for general use. I think the barong and becker are now out of production.
https://i.postimg.cc/J018pmGc/knife-collection.jpg
Attachment 121198
My Silver Stag Bowie. Made in the USA has stabbed an chopped a few things.
That’s certainly different, not sure I would call it a Bowie though, looks like a spearpoint to me...the handle looks good to slash and hack with, is it comfortable for delicate or reverse grip stuff?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnus
Got a few knives but none come close to these ones handed Dow. A few generations. Hold their edge really well and stay sharp as f**k
Attachment 121438
My new knife arrived in the post today, it was made for me by my friend Mark Bird.
Mark is a custom knife maker in the UK and this is number 112 that he has produced.
Made from 3mm 01 tool steel with a Scandi grind and Kirinite Venom handles with G10 liners and brass pins.
He is on both Facebook and Instagram as mbblades and produces some very nice work.
He makes his own custom knife sheaths too.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1de12ba49b.jpg
At the Sika Show there was a recurring comment from women as their husbands looked at knives... what a waste of time because you can't sharpen a knife. One lady was in raptures as her husband looked at the Scary Sharp stand. She said to hubby "I mend your hunting clothes at least you can learn to sharpen our knives." She looked daggers at me but smiled once I told her I had the old model as well as the new kit.
20 odd years ago I made some heavy blade clip-point hollow-handle survival knives from O1 steel. Last year I found some handles and a couple of blade blanks in a box of junk so I decided to make one up into a tanto style point. At some stage I will have to knock up a sheath as well, as it is just being used as a paperweight at present.
Attachment 122019
I will swap you a kydex custom sheath for a spare handle if you have an extra lying around.
Yes, I can do that for you. Send me a PM.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shelley
Attachment 122077
Attachment 122078
My latest, tad of imagination needed but you get the idea...
Mean, what model grinder?Quote:
Originally Posted by Shelley
Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk
That’s an 84 engineering delux model.
It’s pretty sweet!
What we visualize when we think of bowies is not necessarily true but more about whats be made popular through the ages.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shelley
https://www.relentlessknives.com/bow...e-history.html
Yeah mean. Want oneQuote:
Originally Posted by Shelley
Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk
Got to try out my new knife yesterday. Many thanks to John Worthington for his donation of this beautiful piece of cutlery to the Toby / CCF auction. I thought I had used a few sharp knives in my time hunting, but this piece is on a whole new level.
Attachment 122303
Ive got a similar model with walnut scales from John, it’s my favourite knife now.
Very nice. And straight into action!Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathias
Do you take the rump off from the top of the hip plate separately?
Rough bush butchery, off with the back steaks [emoji38]Quote:
Originally Posted by Tahr
Sent from my SM-A530F using Tapatalk
I was thinking the same thing @Tahr looking at that. It's worth its own thread - whether to continue the cut up close around the bone and end up with the rump attached, or take it off as a separate cut - pros & cons ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Tahr
Yes, it's interesting. If I have a short bladed knife like a Mercator (which is hardly ever now) I sometimes take the rumps off when I do the back steaks, or I free them up from the top before I flip the animal over and take the legs off complete with the rump. If the knife has a bit of length (4"-5") I just take the rumps off with the legs with the animal on its back like usual.
The knife on the left is a plain looking Bark River (Kephart) but ideal for doing hind legs with the rump on them without any shagging around. Its one of my favourites. The one on the right can be a pain in the arse at times.
Attachment 122325
Attachment 122333Attachment 122334
My latest knife sold, pretty proud and already blooded , ex venison butcher who is stoked with the performance ( tough first critic ) , two more under way now.
Both based on Bark River models, I will post as finished .
