Thread: show us your chainsaws

Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

Your well prepared then

Your top plate angle can be anywhere from 25-35 degrees and you won’t notice any difference

But your down angle is able to make quite a difference to engine load, 60 degrees down angle is comfortable for midsize saws and 55 and 50 degrees will suit high hp saws as the closer to 50 degrees down angle the more aggressive the chain self feeds

At any down angle rakers can’t go lower than .5 of a mm below the top plate or the chain gets “grabby” and vibrates and slows down


Attachment 219058

Thanks again what is the best way to cut your rakes to all the same height, with the likes of the jolly

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Originally Posted by 25/08 IMP

Thanks again what is the best way to cut your rakes to all the same height, with the likes of the jolly

Sent from my CPH2145 using Tapatalk

When I'm recovering a chain I actually do them by hand - I've had chains written off by taking them to people to get them all returned to the same length and they end up overheating and bluing every other tooth. If you know what you're about and ensure you don't overheat the cutters it's fine but I find no real advantage to doing it by hand with a guided file (Oregon jig thing works quite well). Stuffing the temper can go two ways, either soft cutters which sucks or so hard you can't file the damn things and they need to be ground again early to get them sharp.

Unless a chain is really off spec, can fully sort a 3/8 72 link in about 10-15 minutes. I made a little tensioning doohickey to tighten the chain without the powerhead on the bar - that really helps. I had a ripping chain that clipped something hard that we didn't want, and filed that back to a standard 25deg and that took about 20 minutes to recut and even up the top plates and set the rakers.