Thread: show us your chainsaws

Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

The light bars are flexible for sure, and the toughest bars are great for splitting planets in half

But you get used to them quickly and horses for courses, you use each when the benefits are required

Understand the task and set the saw up accordingly


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Yeah, that's a fair statement. I found the 361 was unhappy with a light bar with only the inside bumper dog on it - it was enough distance between the bar and the dog for a side pull when the saw was hauling against the dog to put a flex on the bar. I fitted a set of slim matching dogs the same length as the factory single dog (they are an order in from Stihl not a stocked item). Sorted that out, and stopped the issue of the saw pulling against the alloy of the clutch cover when cutting through the crutch of an avo or the like. Didn't seem to do the same when the solid bar was on it, and to be fair the weight difference on a saw that size was barely noticeable. Looked a bit stupid I thought with the full size dog pair on it, the dog spikes looked half the length of the bar on such a small saw!!!

Originally Posted by No.3

Yeah, that's a fair statement. I found the 361 was unhappy with a light bar with only the inside bumper dog on it - it was enough distance between the bar and the dog for a side pull when the saw was hauling against the dog to put a flex on the bar. I fitted a set of slim matching dogs the same length as the factory single dog (they are an order in from Stihl not a stocked item). Sorted that out, and stopped the issue of the saw pulling against the alloy of the clutch cover when cutting through the crutch of an avo or the like. Didn't seem to do the same when the solid bar was on it, and to be fair the weight difference on a saw that size was barely noticeable. Looked a bit stupid I thought with the full size dog pair on it, the dog spikes looked half the length of the bar on such a small saw!!!

I'm running a standard 20 inch on my 362 and don't feel the need to go light on that.
Mind you it would be really light with a light bar on it!
I'm thinking I might move on my 880 as getting to bloody heavy for me to lug around.
Not even a light bar could help that beast.
Replace with the 900! When it turns up.
It might even get 7mmsaum to change brands!


Sent from my SM-A556E using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by andyanimal31

I'm running a standard 20 inch on my 362 and don't feel the need to go light on that.
Mind you it would be really light with a light bar on it!
I'm thinking I might move on my 880 as getting to bloody heavy for me to lug around.
Not even a light bar could help that beast.
Replace with the 900! When it turns up.
It might even get 7mmsaum to change brands!


Sent from my SM-A556E using Tapatalk

The only reason I tried a light bar on the 361 is to stop it planting itself when you put the saw down (not that it's a problem). I actually preferred the normal bar for weight in the cut, it made the saw feel weird and powerhead heavy like it needed another 10" (she yelled). I run an Oregon 22" bar (which is a couple of drive links shorter than the equivalent Stihl offering being not so fat) and that's about perfect for the standard oiler. If the chain is sharp it will pull more teeth but it will likely be short for lube!

I have seen and handled an 880, but never used one in a cut. I can understand about the heavy to lug around thing, they are a beast and an absolute weapon of a saw.