What's the go with this stuff? Do you use the same breaking strain as the main line? I'm confused, I haven't used it at all and it now seems to be the go compared to ten years ago when I was last into fishing...
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What's the go with this stuff? Do you use the same breaking strain as the main line? I'm confused, I haven't used it at all and it now seems to be the go compared to ten years ago when I was last into fishing...
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I think its supposed to be invisible under water. Maybe some other properties like abrasion resistance. I just use it as a leader.
What are you using it for? If for softbaiting 20lb is typical
Stiffer, more abrasion-resistant and less visible in water than mono. Use the same breaking strain as mono.
And it's got no stretch as opposed to mono which has truckloads, mainly used as a leader, especially with braid when softbaiting, the lack of stretch gives you a lot more feel and feedback.Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyBoosh
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Whats the application? Im totally over flurocarbon for freshwater fishing.
It is smaller diameter and tougher but, I find its fiddly has no real world difference for me as far as hook up ratios go and knots are much more fragile.
I've tossed every spool I had in weights 12lb and under for fresh water.
Im using old school 2kg and 3kg Maxima Green with better success for about 15% the cost.
If its low stretch and straight out castability I'd go braid with a nylon leader.
Very slippery that is why some nylon knots simply don't work on the fluorocarbon. I use it for soft baiting.
I use 9lb for trout jigging, don't many catch Trout so it's probably useless.
Flurocarbon is for leaders/traces. Refractive index is close to water making it less visible under water so in theory you can use heavier trace with no disadvantage.
Don't know about stretch as you will only ever use short lengths of it so irrelevant really. I use it on all my light gear (up to about 20lb bs) combined with much stronger braid mainline. I buy it off Ali express
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/SeaK...311.0.0.xv3DOm
for a fraction of the price you can get it here. It does vary brand to brand but you have to try it to find out. The only bad one I have tried was Berkley Vanish (crap knot strength) and that was a long time ago.
In the smaller diameters, and in my experience I disagree. Its not a supple as nylon I've found and knots when being pulled up feel as though they chatter their way down the line. I use spit with most knots to lube when pulling tight. Par for the course for the fishos I know. I like to test every knot and I find fluro has a very high failure rate so re-ties are common. Last week first up I dug out a spool of Stroft 6lb and was back to Maxima within the first 5 minutes. Gear lost in a tree via knot failure. Same snags with mono pulled free easy for the rest of the day. I even lifted a large branch from a deepish pool when I got snagged up with 2kg Maxima Green mono.Quote:
Originally Posted by Friwi
I've used pretty much every premium brand and have yet to find one that outperforms plain Jane Maxima. I've used a number of knots too but always go back to a Uni. YMMV as I am talking mainly for flurocarbon in light weights.
Uni knot is king
Fishing isn’t science and it’s hard to prove that one product is better than another when it comes down to actual fish catching. Maybe the fluorocarbon thing is all hype. Maybe it really is better. I suspect the truth lies somewhere in between and it depends on your specific circumstances.
Yes to a well tied uni knot for mono and fluoro. My attempts at crimping fluorocarbon just don’t stand up to test, so I’m sticking with mono for game fishing.
Yes. Yes it is.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shearer
I use it for leaders on my softbait and kingi gear for the abrasion resistance and invisibility in 20p and 120p respectively.
I have never had a knot fail yet but the 120 can be tricky to get to cinch down nice.
Drag some fluro over a bait knife and then some mono and the difference will be immediately obvious.
Bottom fishing gear I dont bother unless the rod happens to have some on it as I will be attaching to a ledger or strayline rig anyway.
Yeah sorry should have said it was for soft baiting and traces for Kingy stuff, stickbaits, poppers etc. Straylines too... I think there is some good info here, will keep reading though.
Unless its very snaggy ground I would doubt fluro would add much real world advantage.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildman
When I did a lot of sea fishing I would tie poppers straight to the mainline with a bimini or spider hitch.
From there I'd go an albright to 50-80lb leader for strayline. No swivel. KISS fishing for me.
Same. Bimini in the braid and the double tied straight to the leader with a double uni. Then a uni to attach lure/hooks or whatever.
Yeah so I'm using braid which I thought is quite visible, especially with the doubled bit. So essentially using it as tippet... Im just use to using say 60lb mono trace for a 20lb main line.... Seems strange using 20lb fluro for trace...
If you have 60lb mono just use that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildman
I have 37kg braid and use 100-120lb mono for trace as i find it is softer and easier to tie with thick lines. For softbaiting i have 6kg braid and 20lb fluro trace
I wouldn't use 20 lb for a kingi trace. If you want to use fluro carbon just treat it as you would mono. If you use 60lb mono trace then use 60lb FC. As has been said, the advantage is that for the same size/breaking strain it is less visible in the water.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildman
And much more abrasion resistant!Quote:
Originally Posted by Shearer
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I use Black Magic Fluorocarbon for my sea traces and Double XX for fresh water
I'm considering grabbing 300m of Dragon flurocarbon from complete angler for my Canals/ big water setup.
I've been told it's smaller diameter and it has breaking strain around 5pound above the line weight ( I stand to be corrected)?
Caught this jigging over the weekend in ToePaw- 6lb flouro traces on the flies/8lb backbone
Brown was 3.4kg
https://vgy.me/Kl7flW.jpg
Mono and FC vary a lot in diameter (for a given breaking strain) depending on brand. Almost all non IGFA rated lines break above their advertised weight unless the manufacturer is deliberately going for "super thin" bragging rights.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock river arms hunter
Some FC is stiffer than other brands, some are more abrasion resistant, some are softer and some have better knot strength. Difficult to know exactly what is best for you until you try a few.
Cheers for the information :-)