Thread: 10/22 cycling issues

My 10/22 seems to be having a few cycling issues where it ejects and loads the next round, but wont always set the hammer back, this occurs when I use super or subs and the only thing that always cycles is 1 brand of cheap target ammo. The rifles got a Timney trigger and an after market bolt buffer and had the barrel cut down to 12 inches.


I am current thinking of putting it back to original ( trigger /buffer) and replacing them one at a time to see if its one of those that's caused it

Any idea's of what the problem might be?

Cheers

1) Have you cleaned it?
2) Have you cleaned the magazines?
3) Cut some bits off some springs
4) You don't have an aftermarket charging handle, do you?

Originally Posted by gimp

1) Have you cleaned it?
2) Have you cleaned the magazines?
3) Cut some bits off some springs
4) You don't have an aftermarket charging handle, do you?

Cleaned it a while ago, lubed it with a bit of kroil oil after
Mags new and I have not cut the spring ( someone did tell me to do it though)
No after market handle but I do have an Automatic Bolt Stop Kit currently removed due to timney trigger

You can use a spring balance to measure the force required at the cocking handle to cock the action with the Timney trigger group and then the standard group fitted. If the Timney requires significantly more effort, you may have to run a weaker recoil spring to compensate, Wolf might do them. You can cut it down to reduce pre-load, one coil at a time, and keep testing after each coil is removed. Do not remove more coils than are required to hold the bolt firmly in battery at rest. Have yourself a spare spring handy. You might also champfer the lower rear of the bolt and polish it so it is rolls the hammer down more smoothly when cocking. A trio of 3mm holes drilled through the left side of the receiver under the serial number oposite the ejection port will assist with clearing crud when fired and will keep it cycling longer between cleaning sessions.

Ray.

My standard no mods done 10/22 does this as well but i only ever use subs through it. I had always put it down to iffy winchester subby ammo which quite often goes !POP! and then doesnt cycle at all or even ejects then chambers but doesnt set the hammer. You say you are having this issue with full power rounds? Hmmmmmm..

Originally Posted by Towely

You say you are having this issue with full power rounds? Hmmmmmm..

I started thinking the after market bolt buffer was causing a bounce with the full power rounds

If the bolt is going right back to the buffer, then the hammer should be cocking. If it's not, then perhaps the trigger adjustments are too fine and it's not catching the sear and is following the bolt forward. But given the setup works OK with one type of ammo, I suspect it's not cycling far enough to cock with other types.

Ray.

Its a very fine line between being able to chuck a round and pick another up without the trigger resetting!

Originally Posted by Towely

Its a very fine line between being able to chuck a round and pick another up without the trigger resetting!

It really depends on the geometry of the trigger group. Aftermarket groups may not replicate the geometry and therefore timing of the factory item.

I found the cycling issue has been caused by the Timney trigger, where is cycled to hard it wont hold as the hammer bounces and releases, I added a stronger recoil spring and will see how it goes on the weekend

I have a brand new clear magazine you can have for free DAF.

I had it as a spare for my volqartsen but never needed it.

Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

I have a brand new clear magazine you can have for free DAF.

I had it as a spare for my volqartsen but never needed it.

Thanks Andrew, That very kind of you

I had the exact same issue with my Timney trigger in my 10/22.
Just adjusted it a little heavier and it came right. Still only around 2 pounds.

Would you happen to have any instructions for that?



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Originally Posted by DAF

Would you happen to have any instructions for that?
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Well mine had the original trigger housing, I just dropped a little unit into that and re-assembled everything else out around.
I could wind it up and down with a little allen key. The adjustment was just behind the hammer.

This was the one I had.