100m target

After spending a bit more time at the range with load development lately, I've been through a few different targets. While they all work, I found that those which offer a more precise aim point seem to work better. As my scope reticle features a small central black dot, I also found that it often gets lost on some targets, especially with a bit of mirage thrown in.

I've attached the latest iteration of my 100m target. It was intended to have good contrast around the central dot, with the outer ring being around 1 inch for a quick reference. I included a 50mm ref scale for analysing in the apps. Anyway - thought it might be useful to someone else.

Attachment 265221

nice, thanks bro!

Best I’ve found is buying a reel of black dot stickers (Avery), then fix them on a blank A4 sheet or Corflute.
They do a bunch if sizes and colours appropriate to your rifle scopes resolution. No printers required.

Yes
Circles or squares with a white or bright centre work well, you want to be able to see the crosshairs and ideally divide the target into quarters.

I have found that Red and Black work best but the best of the two depends on the lighting. I always take both and am therefore prepared for whichever conditions most favour one of the two colours.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Moutere

Best I’ve found is buying a reel of black dot stickers (Avery), then fix them on a blank A4 sheet or Corflute.
They do a bunch if sizes and colours appropriate to your rifle scopes resolution. No printers required.

---

Yes that works well, and is also what I've done. I've started keeping targets during load development for reference, so just liked having a consistent template. It's interesting how that "1/2 moa load" is not quite as good as you remember when you combine all the targets!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by earplay

After spending a bit more time at the range with load development lately, I've been through a few different targets. While they all work, I found that those which offer a more precise aim point seem to work better. As my scope reticle features a small central black dot, I also found that it often gets lost on some targets, especially with a bit of mirage thrown in.

I've attached the latest iteration of my 100m target. It was intended to have good contrast around the central dot, with the outer ring being around 1 inch for a quick reference. I included a 50mm ref scale for analysing in the apps. Anyway - thought it might be useful to someone else.

Attachment 265221

---

Greetings @earplay,
For some time I have used the NZDA standard 50 metre target at 100 metres and the NXDA 100 metre target at 200 metres. It is important to have enough of the white inside the red ring showing so that it can be quartered by the cross hairs. With some of my low power scopes I need to use the 100 metre target at 100 metres etc. I think that the biggest problem with aiming marks is when they are too small and masked by the cross hairs. The same problem shows up when the same target is used at different ranges often resulting in scattered shots at the longer ranges.
Regards Grandpamac.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by grandpamac

Greetings @earplay,
For some time I have used the NZDA standard 50 metre target at 100 metres and the NXDA 100 metre target at 200 metres. It is important to have enough of the white inside the red ring showing so that it can be quartered by the cross hairs. With some of my low power scopes I need to use the 100 metre target at 100 metres etc. I think that the biggest problem with aiming marks is when they are too small and masked by the cross hairs. The same problem shows up when the same target is used at different ranges often resulting in scattered shots at the longer ranges.
Regards Grandpamac.

---

As my scope has a central black dot and an area of blank space before the cross hair starts, it's a little harder to quarter a small target, so I find a nice small white dot seems to work best (well as good as my aim anyway!). On small dark coloured targets, I often lose sight of the dot altogether. I can imagine what works best for anyone maybe depends a bit on the reticle design.

Question @earplay how do you get on in the field with this scope where conditions are less than favourable? Cheers BB

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by earplay

As my scope has a central black dot and an area of blank space before the cross hair starts, it's a little harder to quarter a small target, so I find a nice small white dot seems to work best (well as good as my aim anyway!). On small dark coloured targets, I often lose sight of the dot altogether. I can imagine what works best for anyone maybe depends a bit on the reticle design.

---

You’re on to it, if you can’t 1/4 a circle, putting a circle inside a circle is the next best (if not better) option. Small bore shooting sights are usually a hollow circle at the front and a circle at the back. The target being a solid black circle that the shooter centres in the hollow circle of the front sight. Your effectively doing the same, it’s just that the dot and circle are on different planes, although since you are looking through a scope, rather than open sights, in a sense they are in the same plane.

Accurately centring a circle inside a circle is easier to do than most people would think.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bent Barrel

Question @earplay how do you get on in the field with this scope where conditions are less than favourable? Cheers BB

---

Not quite sure I follow your question. Scope works great, although FFP makes reticle very fine at low mag. Does also have illumination which I haven't really needed.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by longshot

You’re on to it, if you can’t 1/4 a circle, putting a circle inside a circle is the next best (if not better) option.

Accurately centring a circle inside a circle is easier to do than most people would think.

---

Absolutely on the money, and with "cross hairs" diamonds work well too. It's about working to the strengths of your senses, in this case the human eye is very good at "centering". A lot of people get sucked in by the "aim small" thing trying to shoot groups on small aiming points. The problem with it is when you try to do this for enough shots to get meaningfully statistical results (10 + rounds) your eye becomes tired and accurate holding is compromised. Or the aiming point is damaged by impacts during the group.

I've used the following two targets for many years now, they allow old eyes to still shoot to a 0.25 MOA hold or less with just about any reticle, and in less than ideal light. The big 3x one is good for lower powered scopes, the other 6x works at both 50 and 100M. If there's interest I'll pdf them.

Attachment 265272

Attachment 265273

Cheers

@Tentman

I would be keen on a pdf of the 3x target

@Tentman

I'd also be keen for a copy of the top target. Looks the right size for the 200m range with my setup.

Just a 1" red sticker from office works on a piece of A4

Here are my targets, I've added another "open centre" aiming point, this one is good for group testing where you want to put 10-30 shots on paper, I use it for lot testing 22 ammo at 100M

Gave the @Tentman target a go at range this afternoon - worked well. Decided to try a 10 shot group at 200m (after watching too many Hornady podcasts), to see how this load actually groups. Around a 10-15kph cross wind.

Interestingly I checked the target after first 3 shots, and they were well under an inch (sub 1/2 moa). Good reminder that three shots are only a rough guide to how a load actually shoots.

Attachment 265327

Good shooting there, you have the elevation nailed and a MR of 0.36 is actually pretty good.

Once you have your head around the problems 3 shot groups cause with accuracy expectations, if you use the ATZ of the group you shot to adjust on you'll have a rock solid zero that will considerably improve your first round hit rate

Call it 3 fliers and you’re still a half moa tikka shooter :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is a somewhat refined version of Tentman's second one.

Attachment 265343

The overlaid 1" grid helps with the zeroing. I have other variations with bigger and smaller diamonds.
As you can see on it, I used the free utility on Shootershed.com to make it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 6x47

This is a somewhat refined version of Tentman's second one.

Attachment 265343

The overlaid 1" grid helps with the zeroing. I have other variations with bigger and smaller diamonds.
As you can see on it, I used the free utility on Shootershed.com to make it.

---

Nice! If you want a really solid zero don't be tempted to use the 1" squares to estimate and make your fnal adjustment, it's much better to use an app which can precisely determine the exact centre of the group and adjust on that. The picture of @earplay 's group illustrates this nicely, he's at 200M, clicks are 14mm with most scopes, the ATZ called for is 5mm up and 5mm right . . . . Don't touch it even though my initial intuitive look would call for at least a full click of adjustment.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dicko

Call it 3 fliers and you’re still a half moa tikka shooter :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

Technically a Howa, but yes - should have stopped at 3 shots to prove my "1/2 moa all day" shooter :)

Earplay, what is your group measurement app?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dicko

Earplay, what is your group measurement app?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

---

It's called Range Buddy (android)

https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...buddy&hl=en_NZ

I've used the Hornady 4DOF app as well but found RB a little better setup (and free).