If you know your trajectory, 40m will get you usefully zeroed.
For example, my .260 should be 20mm high at 40m for a 220m zero. Of course you need to be spot on in your measurements, but short ranges have big advantages in that they are easier to find, and less affected by any wind that may be about.
The big issue is parallax - you need to be aware of it and shoot accordingly, by either using a scope with adjustable objective or being super careful about a consistent head position behind the scope.
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