.303 iron sights, Sporterized Long Tom.

I have been through this a few times with different .303s.

Your solutions are in order of preference and likely success (Apart from just finding the right sized taller front sight blade):

1. - File down the top of the sight base directly underneath the bottom of the hinged rear sight, so that it sits lower. Do this judiciously and test shoot it with the load you intend to use, a little goes a long way. Get it shooting three inches high at 100 yards.

2. - Build up the top of the front sight blade with solder, and then file it into shape. There is a calculation for how the front sight should be based on the distance between the front and rear sights and you can then judge how higher it should be. Its on the net if you goggle it, that will give you a rough idea how high, then file it down a bit when you test shoot.)*

3. You have to file the top of the rear sight down, and then deepen the V. (I do not recommend this one as you cant replace the rear sight, and if you ever take the rear stock off the rifle, it will shoot to a different place and may be eight inches low for example, and then you have a different problem.)

*Grandpa has just given you this in the post above I see.

@grandpamac and @JohnDuxbury.

Thanks for your input team. Much appreciated.

I’ll try a combination of what you suggested.

It seems that someone has had a crack at the rear sight method before me going by the marks on the base.

Attachment 212536

With regards the foresight. I have a Broad Arrow (issue)marked 0.060 blade, taller than that fitted. Problem is the dovetail is too small for the cutout in the ramp fitted. The ramp is marked thus :

Attachment 212537

No other markings on the ramp or blade.

So a combination of a smidgen off the rear base and solder on the front should see me right, provided the ammo used is a constant.

B

Also try some 150gr, they may cut the distance in half, then a bit here, a bit there...

JNT peep sight was on TM last week at $90, was not sold and may appear again. Problem solved for easy windage/elevation on these rifles.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shift14

@grandpamac and @JohnDuxbury.

Thanks for your input team. Much appreciated.

I’ll try a combination of what you suggested.

It seems that someone has had a crack at the rear sight method before me going by the marks on the base.

Attachment 212536

With regards the foresight. I have a Broad Arrow (issue)marked 0.060 blade, taller than that fitted. Problem is the dovetail is too small for the cutout in the ramp fitted. The ramp is marked thus :

Attachment 212537

No other markings on the ramp or blade.

So a combination of a smidgen off the rear base and solder on the front should see me right, provided the ammo used is a constant.

B

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"Provided the ammo used is constant". You nailed the biggest problem right there. Buying a box here and a box there will probably give you trouble. Handloading can get over most of the problems but not the slap it together kind. I will put some notes together and post them tomorrow.
GPM.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shift14

@grandpamac and @JohnDuxbury.

Thanks for your input team. Much appreciated.

I’ll try a combination of what you suggested.

It seems that someone has had a crack at the rear sight method before me going by the marks on the base.

Attachment 212536

With regards the foresight. I have a Broad Arrow (issue)marked 0.060 blade, taller than that fitted. Problem is the dovetail is too small for the cutout in the ramp fitted. The ramp is marked thus :

Attachment 212537

No other markings on the ramp or blade.

So a combination of a smidgen off the rear base and solder on the front should see me right, provided the ammo used is a constant.

B

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I note your MLE barrel is stamped 'HV' behind the sight, meaning it got sighted in for .303 Mk VII use.

@shift14

Just a thought, you do know you can raise the rear sight ramp and there are TWO notches to choose between then? The lower notch is for short range and may be what you need. A pain to have to raise the ladder out of the way, but hey.

Attachment 212547

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cordite

@shift14

Just a thought, you do know you can raise the rear sight ramp and there are TWO notches to choose between then? The lower notch is for short range and may be what you need. A pain to have to raise the ladder out of the way, but hey.

Attachment 212547

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Yeah nah. Tried that. No good.

Attachment 212551

B

that muzzle looks to have been docked at some point in time.
keep playing with rear sight...Cordite might be onto something.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Micky Duck

that muzzle looks to have been docked at some point in time.
keep playing with rear sight...Cordite might be onto something.

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I’ve assumed all along the barrel has been shortened.

Look at my picture, physically impossible to use the ‘second notch’, at least on my rifle., and when put to shoulder, the back end of the bolt obscures everything.

B

I seem to recall..somewhere in the mists of time...one kiwi whos name is lost to me...had a coin on rear of bolt with hole drilled through it as an aperture...... dont give up on the old gal..there will be a way.
master Duxbury seems to have a way of getting opens to work better than most....between you it will get sorted.

Peep sight would be way better..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shift14

Yeah nah. Tried that. No good.

Attachment 212551

B

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Hi @shift14,
Hmm, went and dug mine out of the safe. Yep. As you found. My slider goes to 200, but the notch bottoms out when you get down to 250yd mark as in the picture. These evil tools were indeed made for two-legged deer, aim for the gut and you'd be right.

I had it at the range, it shot at point of aim at 100m, with a dinner plate target and 6 o clock hold off my elbows. No tumblers, so I thought it worth it to thoroughly clean the barrel since. Here's hoping.

The rear diopter sight is a really good idea, think it's what we both need. But you'd still need to build that front post up unless you remove the open rear sight.

Attachment 212571

Greetings again,
Some notes on loading for the .303.
From my experience quite small changes in loads can result in large differences in point of impact with lower velocity loads shooting considerably lower so a constant supply of ammo is needed before sights can be adjusted. Handloading the .303 is not for the faint hearted. Chambers are often roomy and full length sizing the cases with the die set down hard on the shell holder can result in case head separations as early as the third firing. This can be got around by neck sizing using loads around the start loads in the Hodgdon data. Cases may still need to be full length sized and trimmed if they are from once fired factory ammo but the full length sizing should be just enough to allow them to chamber freely. Many .303 rifles have long throats due to erosion from the hot burning Cordite in the military ammo. My experience is that these shoot best with round nose projectiles of 174 or 180 grains. Load data for the .303 varies widely but I have found that the Hodgden data is reasonably close to results from my two .303 rifles, both with excellent bores. My current load is 32 grains of AR2206H behind the 174 grain round nose Hornady projectile. This load chronographs around 2,050 fps and is accurate. At some point I will test 34 grains which should deliver around 2,150 fps. Either would be more than adequate for most hunting that would be done with an iron sighted rifle.
Regards Grandpamac.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by grandpamac

Greetings again,
Some notes on loading for the .303.
From my experience quite small changes in loads can result in large differences in point of impact with lower velocity loads shooting considerably lower so a constant supply of ammo is needed before sights can be adjusted. Handloading the .303 is not for the faint hearted. Chambers are often roomy and full length sizing the cases with the die set down hard on the shell holder can result in case head separations as early as the third firing. This can be got around by neck sizing using loads around the start loads in the Hodgdon data. Cases may still need to be full length sized and trimmed if they are from once fired factory ammo but the full length sizing should be just enough to allow them to chamber freely. Many .303 rifles have long throats due to erosion from the hot burning Cordite in the military ammo. My experience is that these shoot best with round nose projectiles of 174 or 180 grains. Load data for the .303 varies widely but I have found that the Hodgden data is reasonably close to results from my two .303 rifles, both with excellent bores. My current load is 32 grains of AR2206H behind the 174 grain round nose Hornady projectile. This load chronographs around 2,050 fps and is accurate. At some point I will test 34 grains which should deliver around 2,150 fps. Either would be more than adequate for most hunting that would be done with an iron sighted rifle.
Regards Grandpamac.

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Thank you Sir.

I have no intention of reloading for this ‘gem’., and perhaps introducing more variables.

4-5 boxes of the ammunition pictured will suffice.

For a 200 zero I’ll do the solder on the foresight method, build up at least 2mm and take some fine cut files out with me later this summer, once I’m over weddings in Ireland.

I wish 787’s were this easy hahahaha.

B