@Barry the hunter. I suspect I know who you’re talking about from early 2000’s. An idiot who got far too much air time. Has to be said though that we’ve got the same scenario with idiots on YouTube these days.
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@Barry the hunter. I suspect I know who you’re talking about from early 2000’s. An idiot who got far too much air time. Has to be said though that we’ve got the same scenario with idiots on YouTube these days.
Another thought. Was the 2,700 fps chronographed in your rifle? It seems high for an 18 inch barrel.
Great advice per your previous post, thanks, will do. Almost makes me question the value of shooting at the range on sand bags other than measuring velocity and grouping, and confirming scope is still aligned.
It’s Hornady SST 165, says 2840 on the box, guessing 22 or 24 inch test barrel so I figured 2700 was probably correct?
I get 2712ft/s out of a 20" using Hornady ssts 165gr.Forget the box numbers.
Yup.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trout
You did the right thing by shooting a group at long range and measuring the actual drop to get velocity (BC is negligible at hunting ranges, don't alter it from factory specs). The resulting velocity given by the app will be very close, but it will change a bit from the addition of a can/extra baffles etc. - probably not enough to make a hunting scenario difference under 400m. If you can chronograph the actual set up that's very nice but not essential.
I'd reiterate that these light rifles require absolute consistency of hold to shoot well, which tends to compound out on the hill where you're never shooting from a nice flat place. A different shoulder pressure or fore-end hold will move a shot at least 3-4 moa - so quite a bit at 300M +. Practise is your friend, at home dry firing is far, far better than none at all.
PS
My recently acquired 308 Kimber shoots very well if I do my part, and I'm getting 2730 fps from a 17" barrel with a DPT braked can. That's a very snotty load that is significantly faster than the factory ammo I tried.
After shooting tikkas 308s for 15yrs using the same ammo.You get to know their habits and how to be accurate with them.
The 2700 was based on a Garmin chronograph, average of about 10 shots ��
“I’d reiterate that these light rifles require absolute consistency of hold to shoot well, which tends to compound out on the hill where you're never shooting from a nice flat place. A different shoulder pressure or fore-end hold will move a shot at least 3-4 moa - so quite a bit at 300M +. Practise is your friend, at home dry firing is far, far better than none at all.”
Great points. That’s partly why I wasn’t too hesitant to put a heavier scope on it (upgraded from a VX3 4.5-14 to a VX5 3-15, maybe 6 ounces heavier), as well as the extra DPT baffles and brake, especially since I shoot probably half my animals offhand, say 30-100m.
For what it’s worth, I picked up one of these thingies for dry firing practice, it’s quite fun to use. It slips over the barrel and connects to an app via blue tooth. I records barrel movement before and after trigger squeeze, and gives you a trace and score of 0-100. There are different exercises, timed drills, etc. and you can make notes for each 10 round group. My son and I like to compete, and we’ll mix it up by adding 5 pushups before each shot, etc.
One thing I’ve quickly found was that pulling the rifle in to the shoulder firmly really improves my score, while utilising the sling doesn’t help (or hurt). Can’t say for certain that it translates into real world accuracy but a 50 round session the night before a hunt can’t hurt anything.
https://mantisx.com/
And with that aid you will perfect follow thru which is extremey important.
[/QUOTE]"One thing I’ve quickly found was that pulling the rifle in to the shoulder firmly really improves my score"[/QUOTE]
This is one of the most important things for shooting hunting rifles, especially lightweight rifles. This will help with shot consistency through all postions. Pull the rifle into your shoulder with the lower 3 fingers of your trigger hand. Doesn't matter if your style is holding the forend or two hands on the butt bipod style.
The barely hold the rifle style of shooting is bullshit with hunting weight rifles.
With my new GWs suppresser, I checked my 3" high at a hundy for 300yds dial up,even tho 4"high is my 300yd dial up for zero.I fired 5 shots,windy but only after elevation for 300yds.Elevation centre of group was 3-1/4" low at 300yds.4 clks is 3/4"×4=3".
So dial 4"up at a hundy up give me a result of 1/4"low zero at
300yds.Drop chart ballistics app spot on.
2.5"- 3" high at a 100yds is good for a 308 shooting out to 300yds
point n shoot deer.
Attachment 273186
400yds similar results,7 " dial up.Not good grouping in the NW wind,but deer have a big sholder broad side.
Attachment 273187
All my shooting off the bonnet of truck at the range n out on the river beds.Using a cheap $320 nikko stirling scope 2-10×50 and a very expensive Infiray CHV2 50 Clip on.Contessa 6 screws rings dont let anything move either,very good rings.
Attachment 273188
Yesterday while at the range I tried a wee experiment with my Kimber 84M 308, it's a pretty reliable 1.0 MOA or a tad better rifle WHEN it's treated with consistency in hold. Target is 3 different holds on the same aiming point. This rifle doesn't change POI when it gets hot, but in any case I stomped up the 100M to check each individual group to get some cooling.
Attachment 273190
95mm of vertical at 100M, that's gonna punish ya at 300M+. All individual groups 35mm or under. After this I went back to 300Y and sent 3 rounds into 85mm nicely centred over my point of aim.
Oops - photo tipped over, don't ya hate that!
