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Hi, I’m asking for what peoples processes are for cleaning their barrels.
Iv been told a lot of different things and getting a bit lost.
I have Bore Tech Cu+ copper and Eliminator.
After barrel break in should I not be using a brush? just patches? what Chem?
Thanks
Hardy & Truflight barrels. used for 500yrd plus culling on goats and targets.
A friend got a borescope recently so we've had a good look at all the rifles we own. We inspected them thoroughly prior to doing any cleaning then kept rechecking to see what changed.
He used the Boretech Eliminator and it appears to remove carbon fouling very effectively when you follow the instructions (the instructions recommend applying it with a nylon brush, leave for a period then swab out with patches). It also removed moderate copper fouling during that same process. In my rifle barrels I used Collings #90 solvent as a comparison. This also appeared to be effective on the carbon fouling.
One of my friends barrels had a significant area of copper fouling - the Boretech Cu remover was able to remove this after a few applications of the solvent. All of the 'regular' copper we could see in the bore of the other barrels was removed entirely by one application of the Boretech Cu remover - it seems to do exactly what is claims to based on what we saw.
Grabs comfy chair and popcorn :)
Yep exactly on the money.....cannot clean properly without a borescope. Carbon is very difficult to remove and may need a wire brush to completely remove it.
3rd on the bore scope, great tool to have. teslong ones are good value.
Buy a bore scope, the teslong ones are cheap and save a lot of time. Plus you can send them through second hand rifles and discover "safe queen, only done a packet of ammo" is actually a pitted mess on the inside as it's shot 20 rounds at the range and then never cleaner and stored in a damp safe. However, don't stress too much on what you see with a bore scope, all bores I've looked through have the odd strange machining mark, pit, or other things that you can't see with the naked eye. They don't affect accuracy worth worrying about and I've cleaned up some old military rifle bores that look more like gravel than metal on the inside and they've shot with functional hunting accuracy. With one particularly bad Swedish Mauser still maintaining about 1.5" @ 100m with a bore I would of said is absolutely toast.
For cleaning I use JB bore paste and clean properly about every 100 rounds, maybe 200 on some rifles depending on how they foul. Only using a bore snake with Eezox before and after each use for corrosion protection and to get the odd bit of crud that finds it's way in there.
My experience is the chemical solutions are good at colouring patches but using a bore scope they take way too long and far to many applications to actually remove copper and carbon. I have Boretech eliminator and their coper remover. They'll take hours to do what JB bore paste does in 5 mins.
30 passes with a bronze bore brush with a cloth wrapped around it with JB bore paste and Eezox for lube followed by a couple of patches soaked in isopropyl alcohol then a dry patch takes a grubby barrel down to bright steel on most rifles, maybe a quick back and forward scrub in the first 6" of the barrel the clean the throat up a bit for some. Throw the bore brush away after this, it's now below bore size and useless for further use, buy the brushes in bulk from AliExpress.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Makros
The above system is effective and close to my own cleaning procedure but with different products.
If I start shooting from the point of having a cleaned barrel I'll finish my hunt / session then push two to four dry patches through to remove loose carbon residue then run a patch suturated with CLP through three or four times to thoroughly coat the bore. Then, store the rifle barrel down as CLP will trickle down with gravity. Before shooting again a couple of passes with a dry patch to dry the bore. Then after about 100 or 150 shots I'll run patches through ( as above ) to remove loose residue then patch three or four times with KG1 ( Carbon remover ) and leave overnight. This is followed with a stiff nylon brush saturated with KG1 for 100 passes ( once through the bore and back = 2 passes ). Then patch dry. If it looks good, patch with CLP and put into the safe. If copper is building up and I decide to remove it I run a patch saturated with KG12 ( Copper Remover ) through three or four times and leave overnight. This is followed with the stiff nylon brush saturated with KG12. Copper is usually more stubborn requiring more than 100 passes usually to get it all. Sometime I will wet patch the bore again to leave for a second night before nylon brushing again next day. If this is insufficient to get the most stubborn copper I wet a worn bronze brush ( without any patch on it ) with KG12 ( Copper Remover ) and run this for up to 50 passes. This is very effective getting rid of the most stubborn copper and gets the bore down to clean, shiny metal. I can see this result by using the Teslong Bore Scope which is a great little tool. Then, CLP and into the gun safe.
After KG12 I find the first couple of shots can be off by an inch or two until settling again and shooting as sighted.
I bloody reckon haha.Quote:
Originally Posted by blip
Definitely have the popcorn ready just in case.
There are many many different ideas on cleaning, and everyone has their own method and their own "expert" they get advise from.
I basically just use patches and Boretech C4 carbon remove with patches only, then run an oily patch through for storage.
My method ended up very similar to what Bartlein barrels recommends. For rimfire barrels I add the step of soaking the chamber area for remove the carbon build up then leave out the oily patch step.
https://www.bartleinbarrels.com/how-to-clean-a-barrel
It'd be interesting to hear what Hardy and TF recommend, see if it differs from Bartlein.
Bartlein barrels have unoffically become the best barrel marker in the USA and therefor arguably the planet.
If you are bored and what to read up on things relating to rifle barrels search for Frank G or Frank Green on a variety of different forums, hes the owner of Bartlein and puts out a lot of information.
Bartlein supply barrels blanks to many high end gun smiths, rifle manufactures, and ammuntion maufacturers.
So as far as expert opinions go they should be fairly reliable.
All I can say from what I've learnt over the years is pay attention to your rifle, It will tell you what it likes. some like to be spotlessly clean and others dont to put it in its simplest form....
The easy way would be to just google any of the barrel manufacturers and follow their suggested procedure.
There is, to be honest, as many cleaning procedures as there are firearms owners - and everyone beliefs his way is the right way. That's also why some members wants get popcorn - because they know, someone will make the mistake of sharing what he/she does(and it most probably works 100% for them) only to get ripped to shreds by some of our own. We've been through it many a time.
The long and the short - as soon as you start shooting & cleaning more often, you'll develop a procedure that works for you. Boretech Eliminator is a great product for carbon and copper removal, get a good oil and a decent one piece cleaning rod for cleaning. (Bore-snakes are great for the bush, but does not replace a cleaning rod, you need a bore-snake in your pack, steer clear of ammonia, wipe your cleaning rods before sticking it down your firearms barrel, get a bore guide - accept that a barrel is a consumable, it will wear and it will need replacement at some stage).
If you know a TR shooter in your area - go visit, you'll learn a lot from them, they clean their barrels more than most, they've learned what to use to clean quickly and effectively - and they really want their barrels to last.
If your referring to me, sorry to rain on your parade I couldn't give i shit how you clean your rifle. Its your rifle do whatever you like with it:thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaco Goosen
Simple... IMMEDIATELY after EVERY shoot a basic clean is done with some hoppes, some oil and a few patches, nothing major, just to get the (corrosive) stuff out.
every once in a while a depper clean. For this boretec has shown itself to be very good. Both carbon and copper remover work wonders compared to other products, and clean the barrel down to bare metal.
The by far strongest carbon remover I know about is CLR, not using it on the barrel but it works wonders on the DPT stainless baffle...
I do not use wire brushes or abrasives, no need to.
One thing that always makes me giggle is the amount of people that moan about how much good cleaning gear costs then basically write it off the first time they use it. Aluminium threaded multi-sectioned cleaning rods are great for an emergency use item and if you use them gently, but for tight patches or heavy cleaning they are no good. If you have heavy carbon fouling, it does pay to clean your rod before each pass through the barrel so you don't end up dragging crap into places where it shouldn't be - bore guides are good for helping with this. Having the wrong thing getting into your bedding or trigger group can create a few problems that need a trip to a gun doctor to sort...
Some actions like certain mauser-derived designs have a ejector blade that sticks into the middle of the action and makes short work of your shiny new coated one piece cleaning rod, it pays to check for this as it can be an expensive learning. Bore guides are a must here, and I actually prefer uncoated solid steel rods although they can be dearer. I knew a guy who made his own cleaning rods specific to the caliber and out of stainless. Nice and shiny!
Another is the bronze brushes, they don't actually like going forwards and backwards through the bore. Pick one direction and stick with it, as the bronze bristles are longer than the inside diameter of the barrel so flex to fit through the bore. Flexing them back and forwards just wears them out quicker. The other is using a copper solvent with bronze brushes, you'll never get the bore clean of copper traces doing that haha. Nylon bore brushes are a lot more forgiving and don't seem to mind back and forwards and are recommended for applying copper solvents. Chamber cleaning mops are useful too although most people seem to skip this step.
Nah mate, no issues with you having a good time watching the fun coming. It was directed towards those those that would do the ripping.
And because of this way of getting ripped apart, no one wants to answer a fairly easy question.
Once upon a time we had thick skin dunno what's happened there. I could offer a couple of things I do but Ill see how the thread goes.(been reading a bit on here so know how some roll)
oh well..seems I must have a thick skin...or just be thick.
here goes.
after shooting rifle will get a patch on spear jag with breakfree CLP on it pushed through bore,patch turned over and through again...will do this twice..then dry patch or two then a light coated one to finish...thats it 90% of the time.
5% of time no shot fired so just a light coated patch pushed through
last 5% is about once a year or two will get stuck in and use bronze brush...and/or solvent on nylon brush..then cleaned out and lightly oiled before putting it away.
my old model 70s last group is just on inch after 30 years of that treatment.....
dont overthink it..its a bit of steel with a hole through it....get crap out and stick light coat of something to protect it..end of story.
There's only a handful of people on here with enough skill to read what you're seeing on a borescope correctly....I think saying someone needs that in their cleaning kit is a bit over the top.
The op you have some boretech eliminator already buy yourself a high end cleaning rod and your done.
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Just learn to read the patches for a start, people have been doing that for decades. Ill rarely use a bronze brush but when I have I've just done a couple of dry passes and then a wet patch of solvent and let it soak for a bit.
My 20cents worth
Hoppies no9 patch till clean, if to be used in the next week, just put a wet patch of hoppies, leave muzzle down, sometimes a bit of blue comes out when dry patch it ready to use. Longer term storage put a wet pach of oil down.
Know a guy that didn't use his rifles for a couple of years, wet patch hoppies, hoppies again to clean out, dry patch and shot every bit as good as when he left them. Every now and then when the rifle goes off use bore tec, and once in a blue moon use Kroil & JBs. Over 3000 shots and still does an lazy half inch.
Cleaning barrels is far overrated, especially on a hunting rifle.
Yes like everything depends on, rifle - barrel type, number of shots, weather conditions blar blar blar
I hate cleaning guns so "GOD BLESS G96 & THE HOP'S BORE SNAKE"
Yea I'm a bit like that philipo about the only time any of mine will get a good clean is if I've bought it second hand other than that the bare minimum.
Or there's the artillery approach, wipe out foaming bore cleaner and a dry patch or two or until it's clear... If it works for large calibre naval and land artillery!
Some good reading here.
https://www.ssaa.org.au/stories/hints-tips.html
To be fair I have a shelf load of cleaners but the most effective is wipe out used with accelerator.Quote:
Originally Posted by No.3
I shoot my rifles till accuracy bleeds of then deep clean with above.
In between is bore snake with rem oil sprayed on the first bit.
The purpose of that is to take out powder residue which attracts moisture and leaves a very slight protective layer in the bore.
I have used wipe out on rifles with bad carbon rings showing pressure and I accuracy with previous good ammo.
It does work!
Sent from my SM-A226B using Tapatalk
I don’t get too dog knotted on it. My stainless barrels I clean properly maybe a couple of times a year using carbon and copper remover and bronze brushes. My summer hunting rifle (deer) might get 5-10 rounds a month so only clean it if it gets wet, I have some spectacular bomb up or I’m putting it away for a month or two.
You could go mad worrying about it.
Borescopes certainly have their place.
Especially when buying used guns that have "cleaning" regimes like some people...
You guys aware that "stainless" does not mean that powder residue and moisture will not cause pitting inside your barrels?
Also they dont stop rust either
I've found this stuff is great at removing carbon crap. It is mostly toluene and acetone.
I love shooting Molycoated bullets - I know al lot of shooters feels its wrong, but I love it. I found that Carb/brake cleaner does a great job at removing moly.
I know one guy that just uses kerosine
Sounds like a barrel burnerQuote:
Originally Posted by blip
Diesel know what he is doing,?
Few wet hoppys patchs till cleanish,few dry patchs till drynclean.Go hunting.Do this after every box of ammo.
Been shooting 40+ years and doing it so if it works for him who cares. Cant see a problem as long as you patch barrel before shooting as you should anyway. Its probably more accepted than what I do...Quote:
Originally Posted by norsk
White spirits.
(1) Saturate bore with fluffy soaked in white spirits
(2) Scrub bore with nylon or similar soaked in white spirits
(3) Dry bore with cotton cloth wrapped around Parker Hale brass jag (The cotton cloth I use is a from a pair of old winter pyjamas!)
(4) Inspect - Hold receiver end up to bright white LED light (or sunshine)
(5) If the bore is still dirty repeat step 1 - 4 until it GLEAMS!
(6) Apply a thin layer of gun oil to a bronzes bush and do a couple of passes. Apply more for long term storage
*NOTE TO SELF: Run a cloth swab on bronze jag before firing
**NOTES on Economy: 67mls of Gun Cleaner $19. 1000mls of White Spirits $17
***NOTES ON CLEANING SUPPRESSORS: At the end of a shoot, drop your suppressor (whole or disassembled) into a jar of white spirits, by the time you get home the gun powder will have turned to paste and you just wipe it off. Poor mans ultrasonic cleaner. DPT recommend WD40 for cleaning suppressors, but white spirits is cheaper.
NOTES ON CLEANING MAGAZINES: The same as for suppressors. I find the big peanut butter jars fit the number of mags I have and the jar fits under my ute seat. When you get home the bottom of the jar will show signs of grit, especially if you have been hunting in sand dunes. Blow out magazines with compressed air, soak in WD40, blow out again.
Job done!
Truth is sometimes stranger than fiction; A client employed me for a tutorial on rifle cleaning and offered up his kit, Accu something? I said, "No thanks I'm used to my own." At the end, I demonstrated that my 40 year old Parker Hale cleaning rod was made out of spring steel, by curving it in an arc and letting it spring back. He was so impressed he grabbed his own aluminium Accu something rod and bent that in an arc! SNAP! Not a great outcome, but he did say, "Today I learnt something!"
Two piece of plywood in your engineer vice will hold the barrel safely whist cleaning. Point is downhill towards the muzzle so the dirty cleaning fluid flows out the muzzle, not back into your magazine housing. Compressed air for blowing out detritus.
Yea I just get the loose chunks out with a dry patch or two and if it’s sitting for a bit then it gets another patch with some oil or some form of protective coating to protect the bore. Other then that I only use solvent or do a deep clean if something happens where I need to, such as deterioration of accuracy. That’s just my hunting rifles that stretch a bit from time to time.
Actually the last time one of my rifles got the full treatment was after I rechambered it. And here's a horror story for some of you. I use ammonia to get copper out they tell me it will ruin your rifle but I've been using it for 35 years and haven't had a ruined rifle yet, what am I doing wrong? All you have to do is dont leave it in there and clean it out properly which is what your doing when you do a full clean anyway...probably no different to shooting corrosive ammo
I run a bore snake through every now and then and aslong as grouping good dont touch it
Try this for a sensible approach.
https://www.ssaa.org.au/stories/hint...a-firearm.html
Really feeling for AlphaDelta. Probably whole new levels of lost...Quote:
Originally Posted by alphaDelta
The common theme from 3 pages so far seems to be:
1. Remove detritus/moisture after use (whether fired or not)
2. Prevent corrosion when putting away
3. Run a patch through before firing.
Seems pretty straightforward.
Other notes:
A. Push/pull patches one way - chamber to muzzle
B. Doesn't seem to matter a great deal what product you use - ranging from "reassuringly expensive" to dirt cheap.
C. Listen to your rifle over other people - if it's shooting well, why change.
Just thinking about the cost of lots of high-end cleaning products and hours of barrel cleaning in comparison to the cost of a re-barrel?
Interested to know if anyone here has actually ruined a barrel from over or under cleaning?