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In regards to zeroing a rifle and practicing to dial out to 500m what sort of rest are you guys using or would recommend?
Is a bipod sufficient or is a dedicated shooting rest needed? I'm just dipping the toes into learning how to dial whilst also getting more accurate at shooting in general
The rifle is a suppressed 7mm RM
Cheers
Oh dear...can of worms just been opened here.....
I use my bipod as I want everything to be as close to a hunting scenario as I can get, hence why if no one else is at the range I use I'll shoot prone with some sort of rear rest rather than off the bench.
My little green pillow,takes the bounce out of the recoil.
Attachment 273407
Funny enough,I hardly ever use the bipod shooting deer either.
Just like me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trout
Up hill shots over the bonnet (although out the ute window saves getting out) so it's a down hill drag to the road. Wouldn't dream of shooting one on the bottom side of the track.
Bipod and rear bag will see you right. The 5 guys that have replied so far have a combined age of 485. Just look at the bipod on a pillow, I mean make up ya mind :P
I am not sure bmait I would get to hung up on one method being the B all and end all of steadying a rifle for a longer shot - yes a bi pod is really good - but will you have time to set it up if your big stag had 30 metres to go and out of sight - then maybe its just your back pack and bang - much more important that your rifle is absolutely zeroed - you have practiced with it and know what its like to shoot- have confidence in its ability - 7mmrm are a big caliber and take some practice to shoot well in short the recoil is up there - practice practice
Down in the river bed and out the Nissan window :) Wise man.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trout
Once one gets to a certain age you discover the benefit of always having a pillow to handQuote:
Originally Posted by Gibo
On the bonnect,on the cushion.Right hand on pistal grip finger trigger,left hand against right hand.Hardly ever use forhand up front.19 deer and 1 pig havnt liked my procedure so far this summer,2 trips to go.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tahr
That's my sleeping pillow at night too,nice.Us oldish old farts are allowed a pillow under the stars.lols
For a old fart,I zero ok tho. Attachment 273414
We all do it a bit different.Quote:
Originally Posted by bmait
Personal preference for me is... get your self a nice light rear bag . Can be hard to find ...
And a good solid bipod
I like to target shoot how I shoot on the hill so I try copy that as best as I can
Tip of the day from me is get yourself a nice light trigger you feel safe using and let some time in using it ! Good luck!
My advice is that initial zero and practice are sequential and separate exercises.Quote:
Originally Posted by bmait
You want as solid, and as precise zero as you can achieve. Front support of your choice, along with solid rear support as well. We’re focussing on the rifle here, so you want as little shooter generated error here as possible. Errors at close range will only be amplified when you step out to your desired 500m and beyond.
Once zeroed, practice as you mean to hunt to build proficiency between your shooting fundamentals and the rifles potential.
It amazing some of the average zeros that I’ve seen satisfy some of the hunters I have hosted up at the range. I can’t decide if they’re just that rough, or they’re not willing to invest in the ammunition to do it properly.
Cheers for all the responses so far guys, great info. Thought I better branch out after a few years of banging over deer through a thermal atop a .308 around the glorious WC river flats
With yr 7mm RM,you wont have much dial up to 300yds.Just divide yr dialing up into 1/3rds to 400yds and and 1/4s to 500yds.Try to round off to the closes inch.Not sure the drops for yr 7mm Rm.Quote:
Originally Posted by bmait
Heres what I do for my 308.
4inch's=300yds
5inchs =333yds
6inchs =366yds
7inchs =400yds
8inchs =425yds
9inchs =450yds
10nchs=475yds
11nchs=500yds.
Theres a bit of drop between distances,but not enough to miss deer.Iv practice and shot at all the above diatance over the yrs.I know the 308 very well.Im no crack shot but deer don't no the difference.Enjoy yr canon and good hunting.
Yr 7mmRm will close the dial up distance abit better than the 308. I'm using Hornady SSTs 150gr at 2900ft/s.
My version of the pillow on the bonnet for zeroing used to be a pillow on the spare wheel on the bonnet of my Landrover. Much more stable.
GPM.
Ok to make this easy,above calculations give you high shots above zero from zero up to about 6''H at 500yds.Now allow say 3-4'' low and 3-4'' high at a given distance at a deer size target,8''-10'' circle.You cut the dialing up numbers out by half using yr ballistices app.Then you gota to shoot them to prove it at the range.
3'' high at a 100yds takes me to 300yds
5'' high =300yds to 380yds
7'' high =380yds to 450yds
9'' high =450yds to 500yds.
All this on level ground not mountains and hills,i only shoot on the flats now.
Get the idea bmait,now you sort yr canon out.Have good scope rings to hold scope secure.Dont be scared to use a bit of ammo at the range.You might only use one shot out on a hunting trip.
We see it often. A guy brings his hunting rig out to have a play at just 300yds. "So you've got a good zero for this?" I ask. Yup they go, then proceed to barely clip the outer edge of the big target frame, and sometimes no hit at all. And yet they still bring home animals. I think this just shows how many animals are shot at close range.Quote:
Originally Posted by Moutere
As guys have said on here,get yr 100yds or 200yds zero spot on.Walk before you run they reckn.Watch "Panhandle Precision"Cold Bore shots,the Perfect Zero" on utube.
A few moons ago I went down the bipod rabbit hole. No expert but learned a few things about what worked for me.
1. A bipod sucks in the bush. Catches everything
2. A bipod sucks in tall grass, weeds or rushes. Have to take a scythe to clear a view path
3. A bipod sucks on a synthetic stock with a free floated barrel and a flexible fore-end, if the fore-end touches the barrel under the pressure of your hold bearing down on a bipod mount your shot is buggered.
4. A bipod sucks if you need to snap a shot, just cant deploy it so it's a useless encumbrance underneath the front of the rifle.
5. cheap bipods, ex GC, really suck. Bits break and fall off.
6. Bipods that rattle as you move or zing when bumped really suck
7. A bipod is good when you want to put your gun down but keep the metal off the ground, like when you want a midday snooze and yer pack is yer pillow.
8..bipods make you look seriously cool, or something...
PS, bipods add weight....
PPS if you only have a short window to take the shot, but more than a snap shot, setting up on a bipod is still too slow. Best offhand, off a tree trunk or quicker prone resting on dropped pack.
And that is why most that use them only put them on and carry with it on if they know the area and what to expect, or carry them and put them on if a suitable shot is presented.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jhon
Number 7 is my 99% use of a bipod.Yrs ago on long walks id leave it at home most of the time,400grams less weight.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jhon
Yep get the idea cheers heaps for that. Rifles got a greystone guns pic rail on top, night force rings and a Zeiss conquest v4 4-16x44. Time to put some ammo through it
There are slings out there that give as stable a hold as a bipod, but have less weight and are quicker and quieter to set up. Need more skill to be able to use them to potential though, and the stock and sling swivel mounts need to be tickety boo. Best thing is they can be used from the seated or standing positions, a bipod is type limited to either prone, or behind something suitably solid...
That shows your age! Not many Landrovers around now, let alone with spare wheels on their bonnets,:thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by grandpamac
The best "Bipod" I've found is my day pack.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jhon
I generally zero off my bipod with solid rear support. I have two socks filled with rice or sand etc. Alternate to the bipod I have a simple caldwell rest for the front of the rifle and I still use the socks for rear support. I generally tend to use caldwell rest when i’m doing load development shooting off a bench or something. Regardless of what exact system you use, the key is being absolutely solid. If you are not steady and wavering off your point of aim during the zero then you need to adjust and get it right and solid. Minimise shooter error as much as possible.
Crack up. LOL.Quote:
Originally Posted by Baz036
The shooting system you use at the range,you should use out on the field.Replacate everything you do,then yr rifle will repeat the same results or very near it.
Solid hold,na yr recoil will fight you.Relaxed hold and youll absorb some recoil.
Pretty much my thoughts also.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jhon
I did buy one a while back and tried it at the range. Take it on trips sometimes but yet to use it on game.
DIY folding shooting stixs made out of carbon arrows. Light as a feather. Use them heaps. Never leave home without them.
With one caveat.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trout
For initial zeroing, ammo testing, load development, there's no reason so not get the best shooting position as possible, a stable rest/bipod+rear bag will net better results than some junky shooting sticks or shooting off your pack.
After zeroed/ammo selected/load development is complete, by all means only practice with the setup you intend to use in the feild.
Many people can shoot well with a bipod and sand bags, but if you aren't going to use them in the feild then you shouldn't train yourself to rely on them.
IMO a shooting sling + pack is the best solution for hunting/field shooting. There are some nifty bipod out there now that are very good (but expensive), downside to the sling is you need to practice with it.
Even if just practicing getting into a shooting position without actually shooting will help a lot, but you will still need to do some practice with it
You obviously havnt tried them in the field. And good luck shooting prone with a pack in long grass or when uou need swing left or right. Sticks are surprisingly versatile and steady if used correctly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Beetroot
Agree with the caveat. The purpose at that point is to test the rifle/load and to eliminate as much of the shooter's adverse input as possible.
Yes, do your final check zero using your most likely field position, otherewise, practise practise practise. Particularly offhand. Out in the sticks you may get to shoot off a pack but also maybe standing on tip toes to see over long grass, around the right side of a tree, around the left side of a tree (right handed hold but sometimes lefthanded out of necessity), steeply up hill or downhill (your millimeter correct cheekweld goes out the window in those situations) and so on.
I'm an old school bush hunter. We never had fancy bi-pods back then. The most we had was rifle slings and they are not that practical nowadays if using a flexy plastic stock.
Good to see Norway’s long range course information put to use with the brackets. A great resource that we don’t see much of now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trout
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hmm I didn't know he did a long range course,il have to look it up.Theres allways something to learn.Cheers Tuidog.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuidog
