Thread: Just Zeroed

So just recently went from a standard bush scope to a Burris 3-15 to be able to stretch the legs when given the opportunity.

Now it's fitted to my Tikka 308 as I couldn't justify buying a long range rig alongside the 308 (well I could however the missus is another story but i'm sure i'm preaching to the converted here). I had zeroed my VX Freedom for 50/200yrds, and just done the same with the Burris without really thinking being that most of my hunting will still be bush and that I would order the custom dials to be able to dial when needed.

Was this the right move or should I have zeroed at 100yrds you think? I know talking to others it's horses for courses but thought I'd get some of your expert opinions before I try and stretch the legs for real.

Zeroed at 50-200yds ok for Bush hunting.Just remember have yr scope on the lowest x magnification.Good luck.

Originally Posted by Trout

Zeroed at 50-200yds ok for Bush hunting.Just remember have yr scope on the lowest x magnification.Good luck.

Yeah for sure! If only I was brave enough to ask forgiveness, I wouldn't have this dilemma...

Why?

Each person is different with where they zero scopes. I keep it simple and every set up I have done has always been 100mtrs. Unless you have access to a 200mtr range then you really haven't zeroed the rifle at all. Sure 1-1.5in high at 100mtrs might be close but it's not accurate.

Originally Posted by ShortStuff

So just recently went from a standard bush scope to a Burris 3-15 to be able to stretch the legs when given the opportunity.

Now it's fitted to my Tikka 308 as I couldn't justify buying a long range rig alongside the 308 (well I could however the missus is another story but i'm sure i'm preaching to the converted here). I had zeroed my VX Freedom for 50/200yrds, and just done the same with the Burris without really thinking being that most of my hunting will still be bush and that I would order the custom dials to be able to dial when needed.

Was this the right move or should I have zeroed at 100yrds you think? I know talking to others it's horses for courses but thought I'd get some of your expert opinions before I try and stretch the legs for real.

Its a 308. If you are zero at 200 (and 50m ish) then you should be prtty close to an inch high at 100 and peak around 125 not much higher than that. Now out to 250m all you need to do is aim inside a 5 inch circle (125mm - think saucer sized) on the animal you intend to kill and you wont need to allow for range as anyhere from the muzzle to 250m will be inside that circle. And if you cannot clearly find a spot on the animal that will drop it that exceeds that saucer sized circle then you probably cannot see enough animal to verify beyond all doubt that it i one you want to drop....

Just remember to leave the scope at 3x when stalking. You will have time to wind it up to 'zoom' in on a longer shot but you wont have time to find a close animal at 15x ....

Originally Posted by timattalon

Its a 308. If you are zero at 200 (and 50m ish) then you should be prtty close to an inch high at 100 and peak around 125 not much higher than that. Now out to 250m all you need to do is aim inside a 5 inch circle (125mm - think saucer sized) on the animal you intend to kill and you wont need to allow for range as anyhere from the muzzle to 250m will be inside that circle. And if you cannot clearly find a spot on the animal that will drop it that exceeds that saucer sized circle then you probably cannot see enough animal to verify beyond all doubt that it i one you want to drop....

Just remember to leave the scope at 3x when stalking. You will have time to wind it up to 'zoom' in on a longer shot but you wont have time to find a close animal at 15x ....

Yeah my take exactly. Thanks guys, appreciate it.

For me i would make use of the scopes dial I have the same scope on my .223 and they dial real well.
So for me I zero at 100 yards make yourself a chart and if you are bush hunting you could dial for a 50yard zero if wanted or even a 200 zero if hunting somewhere with maybe longer ranges.
I would just use the 100 zero and dial for most things over 200 best of both worlds.

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Greetings @ShortStuff,
Without knowing the projectile and velocity you are working with it is hard to give much advice but in my .308 with a 150 grain projectile chronographed at 2,750 fps I zero at 170 metres This works out to a little under 50mm high at 100 metres and the same low at 200 metres. I mostly work in metric after the building industry converted to it in the middle 1970's. It is important to actually zero at your chosen zero range as my rifle would be around 25mm high at 50 metres. My .308 M700 mostly gets used on the rifle range these days so I can dial for zero for both range and the load I am using at the time. .308 rifles tend to shoot different projectiles and loads to different places so it is important to zero with your hunting ammo.
Regards Grandpamac.

I wouldn't trust something that was zeroed at 50m. If you validate at longer distance, then OK, but I wouldn't zero at 50 then go try to shoot stuff at longer distances and just expect it to work properly.

If your using for longrange dialing the accepted best practice is perfect zero at 100m or yards and then validate to your desired longest range.
The reason for a 100m zero is then atmospherics are not a problem mucking up your solutions further out but still giving you good resolution.
There lots of other bits and pieces but that's the crux of it.
No matter how you zero make sure you can accurately hit your target ethically

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