Hi,
Who would you recommend to sort out a primary extraction issue on a Remington 700 with the dreaded RR serial?
Cheers
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Hi,
Who would you recommend to sort out a primary extraction issue on a Remington 700 with the dreaded RR serial?
Cheers
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What's thr problem with the RR serial ?
Poor primary extractionQuote:
Originally Posted by turtleSO
They range from 30 thou to 128 thou depending on Remingtons manufacturing lottery and if modified -who has cleaned up the bolt face.
I have fixed plenty of them
Plenty of NZ gunsmiths can sort it
Google lead me to this
https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....raction-82539/
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7mmsaum
How is it fixed?
And I can tell you who not to send it too unless of course you want to end up buying a new bolt elsewhere, AFTER they have finished dicking with your one and run away.Quote:
Originally Posted by 7mmsaum
Retiming the bolt handle to engage the camming surface on the rear bridge of the action. There's a specific jig that sets the correct angle for the handle to be soldered back on with a heat sink screwed up the arse of the bolt...Quote:
Originally Posted by 6x47
Proper way to do it is replace the handle (the remington bolts are three pieces welded together). The bolt handle on the later variants are not attached that strongly. It is possible to just remove and re-solder it on to advance the timing by moving it foward.Quote:
Originally Posted by 6x47
However, the reccomended fix is replacing the handle entirely, as the newer handles were designed in a way that reduced primary extraction due to the cam position angle. There are literal pages of info on this to be found on the Snipershide forum, Chad Dixon at Long Rifles Inc or the Accu Tig man specialise in this work.
If you wanted to be real lazy, you could use solder to increase or build up the area in front of the cam, and file it back down in the desired angle. Not one to advise this as your bolt's heat treatment could be compromised. But I've also seen a solution involving and bent and shaped beer can and epoxy...
Also, a scrap bolt from an old rifle might just work. YYMV and at your own risk. Good luck!
Is this some sort of AI bot?Quote:
Originally Posted by caberslash
So does anybody know who can sort this out? Jaco Goosen is not tooled for the job. Mitch does not do postage so I can get the rifle to him. I am in Tauranga. Dean Maisy seems to not do it either. Any other ideas?
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I've done a few using the old bolt handle. Usually remove it, or sometimes its fallen off already, then build the cam up with some hard tig wire, tig it back on in the right place to get rid of the "clunk".
Can you stick a cleaning rod in from the muzzle, put a little rearward pressure on the bolt and take a photo of it where the bolt handle should be engaging the cam? Interested to see how far out it is. One of the side issues with this design, is that if the chamber is not damaged or suffering from an issue, there isn't any crap fouling things up and the brass is fine (no hot reloads) the cam actually engages after it's needed to do it's work i.e. the brass is already moving in the chamber as you rotate the bolt handle. The 'primary extraction' phase as already been and done - the only time the cam comes into play is symptomatic of other issues that also need sorting. One check for this is if you have a heap of brass shavings in the area of the extractor claw and if your cases are scratched up or lightly grooved in a short line in the case's rim groove. Usually that's a sign that the case is sticking in the chamber and not rotating with the bolt as it is unlocked, which is where the lack of primary extraction becomes obvious.Quote:
Originally Posted by Redaxler
Yeah, apparently in the old days the people assembling the bolts to the receivers tried them one by one until they found 'the' fit - the goldilocks just right bolt for each receiver. They were then serial numbered together.Quote:
Originally Posted by 7mmsaum
With the RR's the CNC machining parts swappers chucked the next off each line into each other and made sure they went together and that was the limit of the check. From there they were serialled up and away they went regardless of if they actually properly worked together and the timing was correct!
As I said I got lucky with the RR one I had, it worked fine. One of the G-prefix ones was a shocker though, but it still extracted despite air-camming.
I will do the cleaning rod trick when I get home this afternoon and post some pictures. I have not seen any shavings, but I have not been paying close attention to that.
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You could try Mike Collings in Whakatane.Quote:
Originally Posted by Redaxler
https://youtube.com/watch?v=szy4HBg3...aN19wvTq3DE6De
I found this helpful when trying to sort my.
RR serial numbers have reputation for primary extraction issues especially in wsm calibres.
Short fat cases with almost no body taper...