Thread: Ruger 10/22 wont cycle

Hi team

Ok so stupid me sold my 1997 Ruger 10/22 a few years back

An not too long ago i decided that was a dumb idea and purchased another one off here, although the new one is one of the "stainless Hogue" models, so after chopping the barrel as short as is allowed to facilitate shooting from the Ute (think its about 12-13") with the suppressor on, i have run into a problem. It wont reliably cycle subsonic ammo, it jams about 2-3 rounds per 10 shot magazine, either the bolt does not go back far enough to eject, or it will eject and chamber a round but the extractor wont clip over the rim of the case (i can make it clip over by smacking the charging handle forward). I've cleaned the crap out of it, and I've also polished the receiver body on the inside (the finish was rough as guts compared to my old one), but still same issue. My thinking is that i need to get a charging handle with a weaker spring so the bolt can go back all the way.

Has anyone done this on theirs and how did it work? any make/model you would recommend?

Ammo ive tried, CCI standard velocity, eley club, eley hunting subs, sk standard, fiocci official 300, . It works perfectly fine with CCI velocitors

I didn't shoot it with the full length barrel so not sure if that made any diffrence

Cheers

Also, people. Dont sell your old rugers.
The new ones are crap by comparison, i learned the hard way

Does it have a plastic buffer pin fitted? Are you using the rotary mags?

If it sometimes ejects the round and then chambers but the extractor doesn't clip over the rim then a weaker charging handle spring probably isn't going to help at all.
A .22lr burns its powder in about 16" so you've taken a bit of the pressure used to cycle the action away.
I think you're going to have to find a way to reduce the weight of your bolt.

What suppressor have you got on it? If it is a Dpt, we could try adding a few baffles extra and see if it does increase the blow back enough to cycle normally with your standard rounds.

My semi (not a pooger) did the same thing when I chopped the barrel. There's not enough barrel length to get the pressure to cycle it properly tried mucking around with suppressors as well. I had to slowly trim the recoil spring to make it reliable again..

Originally Posted by PadLo

Does it have a plastic buffer pin fitted? Are you using the rotary mags?

yes to both, the rotary mags are OEM ruger ones

Originally Posted by Friwi

What suppressor have you got on it? If it is a Dpt, we could try adding a few baffles extra and see if it does increase the blow back enough to cycle normally with your standard rounds.

Gunworks one

Originally Posted by Makros

If it sometimes ejects the round and then chambers but the extractor doesn't clip over the rim then a weaker charging handle spring probably isn't going to help at all.
A .22lr burns its powder in about 16" so you've taken a bit of the pressure used to cycle the action away.
I think you're going to have to find a way to reduce the weight of your bolt.

Hmmmm, i do have access to a milling machine. ive done this with a Voere to make it cycle subs

Originally Posted by PadLo

Does it have a plastic buffer pin fitted? Are you using the rotary mags?

Actually I need to check, I cant remember now if it has one of the fully rubber/plastic ones or one or the I think Kidd ones that is a metal pin with a rubber sleeve

Your issue will be insufficient inertia to properly cycle. A longer barrel would rectify but if that is not an option then a weaker spring May also solve the issue.

The answer is in your cocking handle spring. I bought a Kidd kit with 3 different weight springs to solve the very same problem. Also the Volquatsen exact edge extractor can help too. I wouldn't like to remove metal from the bolt, never heard any success stories with that.

I did the same as you when getting mine a few years back and luckily it ran on subs like a dream right from day one

Id be wearing it in with a few boxes of supers and then checking back to see if its just takes a bit of cycling to sort it out before starting the replacing parts or modifying route

I have the same model and it's been excellent, super reliable and very accurate. Mine hasn't been shortened so is the standard barrel length. Mine has been tweaked and one of the mods was cutting the spring down a fraction on the charging handle.
I didn't do the work but I was present when it got a few little refinements made , sorry but I don't remember how many coils were removed from the spring but I do remember it was done to aid using subsonic ammo and make it cycle reliably... works perfect.

10/22's are picky on what ammo you use. CCI Subs in general work best for the majority. Others will be individual firearm specific in my experience.

Tweaking the recoil/charging spring as suggested would be where i'd look if you're wanting to modify the firearm. I also don't like using wet lube on them and use dry graphite based and find it better. Though full stop, regularly stripping them down and cleaning all residue carbon is a must to keep it ticking over.