Thread: Setting my scope

Originally Posted by Wirehunt

It does matter though Neckshot.

And I can also tell you my rifles are .5 inch low at 50.

it matters to the individual and were he zeroes it to suit him yes? thats my point. I lived by the 100m zero and it works perfect but then i borrowed a mates 243 and it was zeroed at 200. i took it goat slaying and on avg the goats were around the 240m t0 300 mark and all i had to do was aim at the shoulder and they dropped i didnt need hold over the scope didnt dail and i didnt need to change my point of aim for the odd goat under 100 either.I also practiced with my mates rifle the day before to get familier with it.My 260ai with vx3 cds is zeroed at 100m and i know were it shoots under 300m.

Originally Posted by Wirehunt

Ok Tussock and gimp, your both long rangers. What range are you meant to be sighted in for to begin with?

Whatever works for you

I zero at 100 and if walking round open country will have 2moa on it so effectively zeroed at 200.
This means for me if something is "close" i can get a quick rest and a shot off without thinking about it.

Sent from my GT-S5360T using Tapatalk 2

Originally Posted by Tussock

100m

I do believe that was what Thomas said at the first LR thing..... That is your datum.

He said start sighted in at 100.

I added that's your datum, now you being a geo will know exactly what that is.

I zero at 200 so 1.4" high at 100. Hold dead on for anything out to just over 200 and dial for anything further.

Whatever you do, you must practice and check that you can actually hit things. A rangefinder or some better method of range estimation than "well it's way over there so" is really useful as well.

Range estimations are just that...estimates!
Estimates are ok, but can put your bullet WAY off elevation wise past about 250 meters, depending on caliber and loading.
A good rangefinder that gives True Ballistic Range rather than just Line Of Sight readings is just about the best thing since sliced bread in my opinion, and has helped put a lot of meat in the freezer that might otherwise not have been shot.
I'm not just talking about long range either...there have been a few occasions that I have ranged animals where there haven't been objects to get perspective of range from, such as a featureless flat or over the opposite side of a valley or spotlighting foxes in the UK at night. On those occasions, the shot has actually been quite a bit closer than I had thought and a shot was taken that might have been passed up on otherwise.

Jesus Tussock, sometimes I'm amazed you hit anything! What's your scope set to now?

I prefer the holdover method with the 223, fuck I'd wear a scope out in a week dialling and it's way to slow for the rabbits.

It is. At 25 or closer hold high, if you don't you'll miss, on to about 170 then start heading up. Easy as. 250 top of ears. This is all rabbits of course.
Same goes for wind, steady breeze on the cheek hold on that side of the rabbit but not off it. Hair not air.

Interesting thing here to, same rules for the .22 with subs but you start climbing at 50. If you have a 25 zero it's on again at 50 and is four inches low at 75. So if you zero for 75 as a lot do you'll struggle to hit anything close.

Originally Posted by Wirehunt

It does matter though Neckshot.

And I can also tell you my rifles are .5 inch low at 50.

That makes sense as the projectile is still on the up at this point. My 7mm08 is about and inch low at around 25y and around 1-2" high at 100y. Seems to smoke anything I haven't missed due to poor aim lol.