Thread: Shooting with one of those long range scope thingamies...

I just have a common old rem 700 in common old 7mm-08. On top I have a 4 - 16 Nikon scope. The idea of shooting "Out there" is a bit foreign to me and previously 300 yards was considered a long shot. I would at least like to get to 400. Well my Nikon scope has got these circles below the cross hairs to held with hold over etc but which one was right for which distance etc and I had no bloody idea! So I hatched a cunning plan....

Instead of firing lots of rounds off to see which one was closest I set up a target at 400 yards. I then went and fired 3 shots and went back to check the target. I was rapt with the group as it was better than my usual 200 yard group, anyway all 3 shots were within 9cm of each other about 25 inches low and about 20cm off to the right. Anyway I marked the distance where they were below the bulls eye and went back to my rifle. When I put my crosshairs back on the bull I could see exactly what dot was bang on for the 400 yard range. I'm away now! Is that the usual way of doing things for non-flash harry scopes?

I didn't think to adjust the scope back to the left as there was a bit of wind about and I was shooting across a gully, and I know its bang on so 20cm out to one side seemed to be acceptable.

you gonna have trouble with that inch/cm stuff,like moa/milrad

Sounds good. What I did was fired a shot off each hash mark at 100 yds, and then ran each elevation at 100 yds through a ballistic program. Your method would be more real world than mine.

Cheers

If it works, then it works!

Philipo shoots amazing well with the drop marks on his scope on his 308 Browning... rapidfire hits at 600yds

I got a ballistic reticle but it only works on one power. the idea at the time was reticle quick shot out to 400 and dial when had time.
Guess what dont use the reticule at all now.
As spanners said whatever works for you.But eventually you will end up dialing

Originally Posted by veitnamcam

I got a ballistic reticle but it only works on one power. the idea at the time was reticle quick shot out to 400 and dial when had time.
Guess what dont use the reticule at all now.
As spanners said whatever works for you.But eventually you will end up dialing

I am resisting dialing up as I have heard that Nikon's are not that reliable. Plus I have a memory like a goldfish. I'd be to worried that after taking a long shot i'd forget to return it to zero and miss something close in the bush!
The way I checked the drop was only on Max power so probably won't be as accurate on any other power, but any longer range shot I'll be using the highest power anyway.

thats a similar system that leupold use except you do what you did at 400 and then go back to your rifle and set it up so the cross hair is on the aiming point and then adjust the maagnification so it 400 yard hash mark on the reticle corresponds to the point of impact at 400.this is simple and real world and the other hash marks are pretty close out to 500 on my setup.ifi
dont forget to mark or write down exactly where that power settins is as that is the magncation you will have to shoot on for it to work

Originally Posted by andyanimal31

thats a similar system that leupold use except you do what you did at 400 and then go back to your rifle and set it up so the cross hair is on the aiming point and then adjust the maagnification so it 400 yard hash mark on the reticle corresponds to the point of impact at 400.this is simple and real world and the other hash marks are pretty close out to 500 on my setup.ifi
dont forget to mark or write down exactly where that power settins is as that is the magncation you will have to shoot on for it to work

Cheers for that. That is why I did all this on the maximum power as I figured any long range stuff I'll be using the highest power anyway. That way I won't forget it.

The Nikon and Leupold LR are set up to work on max power with standard calibres, but need some checking and refining. Instead of coming off the max power to get it right, I adjust the elevation to get the best match. Like Kudu did
I've been to the dial thing and given up on it. The LR reticle works just fine for me. Out to 525 yds if need be.

Originally Posted by Tahr

The Nikon and Leupold LR are set up to work on max power with standard calibres, but need some checking and refining. Instead of coming off the max power to get it right, I adjust the elevation to get the best match. Like Kudu did
I've been to the dial thing and given up on it. The LR reticle works just fine for me. Out to 525 yds if need be.

You may end up dialling when your shot angles change from horizontal to 20-30 degrees, there's potential to shoot over a few using the reticle only.

Originally Posted by Kudu

I am resisting dialing up as I have heard that Nikon's are not that reliable. Plus I have a memory like a goldfish. I'd be to worried that after taking a long shot i'd forget to return it to zero and miss something close in the bush!
The way I checked the drop was only on Max power so probably won't be as accurate on any other power, but any longer range shot I'll be using the highest power anyway.

I started dialing with what I had at the time, a weaver classic budget dont go out in the rain scope. It worked fine as long as i went up past what I needed a couple of MOA and back down to the setting. It probably was not true MOA adjustments(never checked) but it dident matter as long as MOA were validated at the ranges I wanted to shoot.