Messing around with the .22 on paper at 50 metres again today. Something I noticed, if I was aiming for a 10mm target, my groups were consistently good. Groups were no where near not as good with a 24mm target. Anyone else find this?
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Messing around with the .22 on paper at 50 metres again today. Something I noticed, if I was aiming for a 10mm target, my groups were consistently good. Groups were no where near not as good with a 24mm target. Anyone else find this?
yeah I find the same thing. I use a bit of black insulation tape, cut to a square and placed on an angle like a diamond. the cross hairs line up with the points of the tilted square nicely!
Its all relative to the range/magnification/recticle size.
I can just center on a 12mm dot at 100m with 12x zoom, with iron battle sights on the 303 I need at least a 5 inch solid black dot to even hit a A4 sheet.
Although it is nice to shoot small targets to get small groups, it is equally challenging to have good size circles or disks and divide them in 4 equal quarters with your reticule and try to shoot small groups .
The eye very naturally centers a cross on a circle...better than you can measure with a rule at least....but I am no longer talking about shooting.Quote:
Originally Posted by Friwi
As you were.
It's a question of fitting your crosshairs into the aiming mark with a good amount of white or whatever colour around it. Too tight and you can't see what you're doing, specially you can get diffraction deforming the target shape. A lot of thought went into this with aperture foresights sights for smallbore and fullbore shooting. By equalising the white ring around a circular target they can shoot right up to the limit of what the retina can resolve.
Always used insulation tape in a basic cross.
All my scopes are a duplex type and works well to align the cross-I find the eye self centres the stadia to the tape.
Agree with @berg243 aim small miss small. Aim for a part of a target not just for the target. Tightens up.
do you mean a cross like the letter x or like a letter t cross?Quote:
Originally Posted by csmiffy
I like a dot that I can centre on. I find it easy enough to equally section a 24mm dot at 100m. At 50m with the 22 and a fixed 4x scope I found that the centre of the cross hair neatly covered the entire dot when centred. Basically it varies with distance and scope, but I like to aim as small as I can.
Ill try that, but have a go at a square (tilted like a diamond) of insulation tape, iv found the points of the diamond are helpful to line up the cross hairs on for really accurate shooting. Im no expert but that works for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cordite
More things to consider in this thread:
https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....ign-why-25207/
As Bagheera mentions, in theory more precise alignment should be possible by creating a sight picture that makes use of fine gaps of a contrasting colour between the reticle and the shape of the target, or alternatively the reticle splits the target into four congruent shapes, again of a colour that contrasts with the black of the reticle.
The problem with a solid black diamond is that the width of the reticle - regardless of how thin - must necessarily obscure the vertices of the diamond. Within that width no further refinement may be possible. Try adding a second method of alignment to this same shape by instead using a black outline of a diamond leaving the centre white instead of solid. The reticle quarters this contrasting centre into 4 triangles. As in your original post the target design can then be reduced down in size - to the minimum usable for the width of reticle at the scopes maximum usable power setting. If a solid diamond is already a contrasting colour then you have the same thing.
Cross like a + not X.Quote:
Originally Posted by 40mm
The + hairs (see what I did there) line up very well against the reticule. At best they are only 3/4" wide tape so as mentioned it naturally centres well.
Cheap, quick and yes @Cordite no stuffing around with print outs. as long as it sticks you are away.