Thread: Torque specs for tikka rings?? Scope sliding backwards

Suspected my scope has been sliding backwards so scored a line on scope against rings and went to the range. After about 20 rounds I could clearly see that scope is creeping towards muzzle about 1mm over the day at the range. Rifle is tikka t3x and came from h and f with burris Fullfield 2 and tikka 1 inch rings (I think)

Does anyone know the torque specs for these rings? Can’t seem to find any online? Are they an h and f special cheap job and they just call them tikka rings?

Rifle still shot factory ammo MOA but I will run into trouble eventually I’m sure

Any knowledge appreciated

If it's moving it ain't good... Especially if one ring decides to hold and starts canting and gives the tube a bite.

I'd replace them, dunno what they are but they aren't helping your cause.

Just bought a t3x from Gun Supplies in Rotorua. He says it's silly that tikka sell the bush hunter without a weaver rail as this is what happens.

I guess he was right.

Yip they do that. I found out after 3 years of shooting my 338 federal i was struggling for eye relief. I went back through my dead things photos and noticed it had definitely slipped.
The best thing Beretta did was to stop giving away free rubbish rings.
Although a bit heavy, optilocks are the way to go or the lighter and cheaper Talleys

short answer is ..tighter than they are now...suggest a drop of locktite on the end thats being forced INTO rings.... fair bugs me that rifles leave shops NOT set up right.

Doesn't one ring have a recoil lug in the bottom of it, that sits in a hole in the top of the action? That will stop the ring sliding forward.
If its the top screws, then I suspect lapping the rings might give more surface area gripping the scope tube..

Scope is sliding in rings. Rings to action seems fine

Originally Posted by quentin

Doesn't one ring have a recoil lug in the bottom of it, that sits in a hole in the top of the action? That will stop the ring sliding forward.
If its the top screws, then I suspect lapping the rings might give more surface area gripping the scope tube..

I keep saying this, if you need to lap you need to buy better rings, period. If you have decent rings, you won't have any slipping of marking issues...

The rings look cheapish to me. Get some talleys, all my rifles have them and never had a problem.

Originally Posted by irishyounglad

Just bought a t3x from Gun Supplies in Rotorua. He says it's silly that tikka sell the bush hunter without a weaver rail as this is what happens.

I guess he was right.

That wouldn't make any difference to the OP problem.

With reference to your point, as others have said, quality rings are designed so that they can't slip. If you need/want a rail, then fair enough, but it's not necessary for most of us. Personally, I wouldn't want the added weight, scope height and additional attachment point.

Most quality rings have four screws per ring but there are exceptions. Other than my competition guns, I tend to favour Burris Signature rings with the floating inserts. They DEF grip the scope with no risk of garking the tube. You also can optically centre the scope if needed, which does away with the need for a sloped rail in most cases.

Originally Posted by MB

That wouldn't make any difference to the OP problem.

With reference to your point, as others have said, quality rings are designed so that they can't slip. If you need/want a rail, then fair enough, but it's not necessary for most of us. Personally, I wouldn't want the added weight, scope height and additional attachment point.

Against that, a quality rail generally isn't any higher than rings as the driving factor in scope height is objective clearance followed by occular/power ring clearance over the bolt. Not a hell of a lot heavier either, no idea about an additional attachment point as the rail is generally a hell of a lot more secure and in better alignment than separate bases and rings. If you are meaning one piece bases and rings, that may be so but there are plenty more weaker points than the attachment of rings to rail with quality bits. Now, if you had said clearance over the top of the receiver ejection port, that is sometimes an issue with rails and one piece base/ring setups...

Fit some Tikka Optilocks or a securely mounted rail and quality rings torqued to correct specs will solve your problem.

Make up some rosin solution (rosin in meths) and paint the inside of the scope rings (after cleaning the rings inside and the scope
surface with meths). This will stop the scope slipping. Or, stick a layer of sellophane inside the scope rings (or around the scope)
which will also stop the scope slipping.

This is what I use for Burris bases and rings. May help.