Torque specs for tikka rings?? Scope sliding backwards

Suspected my scope has been sliding backwards so scored a line on scope against rings and went to the range. After about 20 rounds I could clearly see that scope is creeping towards muzzle about 1mm over the day at the range. Rifle is tikka t3x and came from h and f with burris Fullfield 2 and tikka 1 inch rings (I think)

Does anyone know the torque specs for these rings? Can’t seem to find any online? Are they an h and f special cheap job and they just call them tikka rings?

Rifle still shot factory ammo MOA but I will run into trouble eventually I’m sure

Any knowledge appreciated Attachment 251139

If it's moving it ain't good... Especially if one ring decides to hold and starts canting and gives the tube a bite.

I'd replace them, dunno what they are but they aren't helping your cause.

Just bought a t3x from Gun Supplies in Rotorua. He says it's silly that tikka sell the bush hunter without a weaver rail as this is what happens.

I guess he was right.

Yip they do that. I found out after 3 years of shooting my 338 federal i was struggling for eye relief. I went back through my dead things photos and noticed it had definitely slipped.
The best thing Beretta did was to stop giving away free rubbish rings.
Although a bit heavy, optilocks are the way to go or the lighter and cheaper Talleys

short answer is ..tighter than they are now...suggest a drop of locktite on the end thats being forced INTO rings.... fair bugs me that rifles leave shops NOT set up right.

Doesn't one ring have a recoil lug in the bottom of it, that sits in a hole in the top of the action? That will stop the ring sliding forward.
If its the top screws, then I suspect lapping the rings might give more surface area gripping the scope tube..

Scope is sliding in rings. Rings to action seems fine

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Originally Posted by quentin

Doesn't one ring have a recoil lug in the bottom of it, that sits in a hole in the top of the action? That will stop the ring sliding forward.
If its the top screws, then I suspect lapping the rings might give more surface area gripping the scope tube..

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I keep saying this, if you need to lap you need to buy better rings, period. If you have decent rings, you won't have any slipping of marking issues...

The rings look cheapish to me. Get some talleys, all my rifles have them and never had a problem.

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Originally Posted by irishyounglad

Just bought a t3x from Gun Supplies in Rotorua. He says it's silly that tikka sell the bush hunter without a weaver rail as this is what happens.

I guess he was right.

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That wouldn't make any difference to the OP problem.

With reference to your point, as others have said, quality rings are designed so that they can't slip. If you need/want a rail, then fair enough, but it's not necessary for most of us. Personally, I wouldn't want the added weight, scope height and additional attachment point.

Most quality rings have four screws per ring but there are exceptions. Other than my competition guns, I tend to favour Burris Signature rings with the floating inserts. They DEF grip the scope with no risk of garking the tube. You also can optically centre the scope if needed, which does away with the need for a sloped rail in most cases.

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Originally Posted by MB

That wouldn't make any difference to the OP problem.

With reference to your point, as others have said, quality rings are designed so that they can't slip. If you need/want a rail, then fair enough, but it's not necessary for most of us. Personally, I wouldn't want the added weight, scope height and additional attachment point.

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Against that, a quality rail generally isn't any higher than rings as the driving factor in scope height is objective clearance followed by occular/power ring clearance over the bolt. Not a hell of a lot heavier either, no idea about an additional attachment point as the rail is generally a hell of a lot more secure and in better alignment than separate bases and rings. If you are meaning one piece bases and rings, that may be so but there are plenty more weaker points than the attachment of rings to rail with quality bits. Now, if you had said clearance over the top of the receiver ejection port, that is sometimes an issue with rails and one piece base/ring setups...

Fit some Tikka Optilocks or a securely mounted rail and quality rings torqued to correct specs will solve your problem.

Make up some rosin solution (rosin in meths) and paint the inside of the scope rings (after cleaning the rings inside and the scope
surface with meths). This will stop the scope slipping. Or, stick a layer of sellophane inside the scope rings (or around the scope)
which will also stop the scope slipping.

This is what I use for Burris bases and rings. May help.
Attachment 251191

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Originally Posted by Micky Duck

short answer is ..tighter than they are now...suggest a drop of locktite on the end thats being forced INTO rings.... fair bugs me that rifles leave shops NOT set up right.

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As Micky says a small drop of loctite

Those are just the new copies of the old cheap alloy rings that Tikka used to give you in the box. I would recommend getting better rings. Whether you go for Optilocks or a rail and any other good brand it's up to you, both ways will cost about the same. Optilocks are about $300-$400 depending on where you get them from and stainless vs blued. A rail will be about $100 and then good weaver/picatinny rings for it will be about $200 or so.

self amalgamating rubber tape, peel the back off put it inside the rings ang tighten, they wont move again. but better rings is the way to go

You’ve actually got to do tikka rings up pretty tight, I normally use a 1” socket set with a 1 meter cheater bar and use my foot to nip it up about three turns past tight, when the tube changes shape I back it off a quarter turn, job done.

Talleys..job done.

Thanks for the input everyone. Will try the loctite/cheaper remedies first and failing that will
Be on the lookout for some talleys

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Originally Posted by 308Neil

Thanks for the input everyone. Will try the loctite/cheaper remedies first and failing that will
Be on the lookout for some talleys

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Ditch those rings they are crap before you mark your scope more.
Some used to use double sided tape inside the rings to stop slipping.

Sent from my CPH2531 using Tapatalk

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Originally Posted by 25/08 IMP

Ditch those rings they are crap before you mark your scope more.
Some used to use double sided tape inside the rings to stop slipping.

Sent from my CPH2531 using Tapatalk

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Looks too late for the marking

Sent from my SM-S916B using Tapatalk

Another cheap option is to use castor sugar (it needs the tiniest amount) instead of rosin, which no one has anymore. I used this on a 7x64 that had beaten everything else and it worked.

I use nail polish and assemble before it dries when Ive had that happen. Got a dnz onepiece on my tikka, never had a prob with it

On my tikka 308,pic rail,6 scew contessa rings.Nothing moves,no loctite needed.Buy good rings other wise you use more ammo than the cost of good scope rings over time.

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Originally Posted by Sakoswarosorted

You’ve actually got to do tikka rings up pretty tight, I normally use a 1” socket set with a 1 meter cheater bar and use my foot to nip it up about three turns past tight, when the tube changes shape I back it off a quarter turn, job done.

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Clearly the technique used by many sellers of scopes with "barely noticeable" ring marks. I just hate seeing nice scopes ruined by dumb gorillas.

+1 for talleys.
Buy once cry once and all that rubbish.

I used Sportsmatch. Great rings, good price.

https://www.gunworks.co.nz/shop/item...-type-of-rifle

The Signature Burris rings with the insert are good too, but I can't find them in NZ for the Tikka dovetail. Maybe someone with better googlefoo could

I used 18 inch/pound on the rng screws and 25 inch/pound on the screws holding the rings onto the action. Seems to work OK>

Those are ranger rings, a copy of the Tikka ones. I had a set of those on my PRC, what a balls up. Throw them in the bin, far away from your rifle. They caused me nothing but problems, each time I went to the range I had to re zero. I couldn't figure out what the heck was going on, went to take the rings off and the screws were loose. They were torqued to 18 inch pounds with blue locktite, still came loose.

Throw them in the bin and get something else, I replaced mine with a second hand set of Talley's and never looked back, no more re zeroing just happy shooting and confidence that when I finally get the time to get out for a hunt, my rifle will be on point. It may seem like an extra cost buying replacement rings, but for all the mucking around and ammo you'll use during the process of trying cheap fixes, you're better off replacing them, sighting in one last time and then being happy. Let us know how you get on :thumbsup:

@308Neil any progress report?

@308Neil I have a pair of stainless finish tikka optilocks with locking lug, all parts there 25mm rings $200 good condition pm me if you like. Cheers

No updates yet. Rifle is good enough for the bush as is and not doing too much hunting at the moment. Will let you know when I change something and go to the range!

Update. Got some Talley lows. Torqued bases to 25 in/lb and rings to 20 in/lb with some loctite. Went to the range today and once I was zeroed again, managed to get three shots on point of aim. Even got two shots touching which I’m pretty happy with. A few flyers but I’ll put that down to my ability. Much better than with the old rings (when I removed old rings, the screws were not very tight and could see they didn’t have much purchase on scope tube. Overall very happy Attachment 261886

Thank fuck its just a burris and you didn't scratch a decent scope:wtfsmilie: ...... a piece of tape would have done .
Now having said that I would check that there is a gap between the ring tops and the bottoms then I would do around 25in-lb and go from there.