Thread: What do you write on drop chart?

I've been using the Federal app on my phone when hunting however thinking I'll make laminated chart rather than use it as takes a while to grab phone, access app, check numbers, etc. Slow and bright screen in low light.
But what do I put on the drop card? A single set of range and MOA or clicks?
Or do I have a few sets of data for altitude, temperature, wind, etc?

I usually do distance at 50 yard intervals, MOA value and clicks value.
This will be a personal preference so your likely to get a million different opinions.
I rarely use it though it's just there as a back up, if my phone dies.

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And use strelok for everything else

Originally Posted by Phil_H

Haven't done one yet but with developing two loads, both of which I can load up with equal ease in the field as I have a single shot, I will be creating one soon.

Basically I will set my primary load to zero at Point Blank Range and record the the drop at 50 meter increments thereafter to 400 meters - my self imposed limit.

My secondary load I will record the drop in 50 meters increments past its Point Blank Range with a note of any variation left or right of the centre aim-point.....hopefully going well it won't be excessive.

I don't at this time do the dial-up-twiddle stuff and only use hold over. I accept that I might need to consider such things in the future but for now, I like to keep it simple.

I watch this thread with interest to see what others do and what I can learn.

An as to @dannyb's comment....in case my phone dies......phone in the field???? Anathema to my ears.....but I accept I am probably just an old Curmudgeon Luddite......

Cheers
Phil

Phone is only there to use my ballistics app (digital drop chart if you like, it's important if your dialing) and record memories with the camera, also handy if you get in the shit
It's not for anything else, when I'm hunting that is my sole focus

Generally speaking when shooting at distance you've got a bit of time but I never trust apps. I use 25yd increments from 100 (my zero) out to 600yds. Have a bigger Dope sheet that goes to 1000 in the bino bag. Moa/mil up rounded up or down as required. Wind full value at 10mph in moa/mil, easy to halve or add as required, rounded to nearest value. My Binos give me TBR so no need for an angle conversion table. All created on Microsoft excel, laminated, then taped to my rifle.

Extra info: Have bagged plenty of bunnies with 22 however I’m a venison virgin using factory Federal 150 grain blue box ammo in T3X Superlite 7mm rem mag with gunworks suppressor and 3-15 Nikon Monarch 5 scope.
Don’t know actual speed so reliant on what it says on box, hence using the Federal app as basis for drop chart.
Got zero at 200m so approx. 40-45mm high at 100m.
I’m tending towards Keep It Simple Stupid and just write down drop and click values in 50m increments for altitude of hunt area, 15deg temp, no wind. Seems reasonable?
Have set a self imposed 400m limit. Kind of look like it’s don’t even need to think about it if 250m or less, but need to in range 300-400m

What it says on my dial, i cant be arsed counting clicks when its all there in moa

Dont bother with writing the clicks down, just use Moa less info and less confusion. Velocity values are always slower than what's on the box, try to borrow a chronograph or, shoot out to you required distances and record the drop and corrections made to get you central on target.

Originally Posted by Ryan_Songhurst

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And use strelok for everything else

Missed again!
Die ya bugger!
I was aiming for the other one!
Would have hit that if I had more ammo!

Same as Gibo, except I do one column for wind in MOA (10mph) and one for it in inches in case I need to hold for wind.

Moa covers the distance quicker and quarters yr counting until the last inch.

I modify ballistics print-out and reduce size. Then I attach to rifle stock .
I use double sided rego labels and on top use cellophane sealed with wifeys fingernail polish.

Interesting mix. MOA only because scope says so. Others distance or clicks. Some combos of these. Then there's wind, if I can guesstimate wind in first place. Nothing about temp or altitude, or uphill, downhill. Starting to think it's all too complicated and I should take up duck shooting ;-)

Rangefinders with adaptive ballistic functions (varies with conditions) have nearly negated drop charts (fixed data), but always good to have a backup.

I write what load/ammo I have zeroed the rifle with onto the synthetic stock with a waterproof paint pen.

Wipe off with a solvent later if load changes, simple!

For someone relatively new to the whole hunting scene, this is what I have found works for me so far...

Admittedly I have actually only had to dial up for 1 deer out of 6 shot so far this year, a 6pt Red stag shot at 325m in the Ruahines back in October.

I originally had a more complicated version but soon discovered that I had a significant variation in recommended dial up using different ballistic apps without using a chronograph first. I now only use those as I have been able to check physical drop by shooting a fair amount of targets at those distances from 200-600yds. I've also found that my accuracy drops jumping from 500 to 600 out of my 18.5" barrel Tikka .308
I am confident of securing game cleanly at 500 so that's my own self imposed limit for the rifle using that particular ammo at the present