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I've been using the Federal app on my phone when hunting however thinking I'll make laminated chart rather than use it as takes a while to grab phone, access app, check numbers, etc. Slow and bright screen in low light.
But what do I put on the drop card? A single set of range and MOA or clicks?
Or do I have a few sets of data for altitude, temperature, wind, etc?
I usually do distance at 50 yard intervals, MOA value and clicks value.
This will be a personal preference so your likely to get a million different opinions.
I rarely use it though it's just there as a back up, if my phone dies.
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And use strelok for everything else
Phone is only there to use my ballistics app (digital drop chart if you like, it's important if your dialing) and record memories with the camera, also handy if you get in the shit :ORLY:Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil_H
It's not for anything else, when I'm hunting that is my sole focus :O_O:
Generally speaking when shooting at distance you've got a bit of time but I never trust apps. I use 25yd increments from 100 (my zero) out to 600yds. Have a bigger Dope sheet that goes to 1000 in the bino bag. Moa/mil up rounded up or down as required. Wind full value at 10mph in moa/mil, easy to halve or add as required, rounded to nearest value. My Binos give me TBR so no need for an angle conversion table. All created on Microsoft excel, laminated, then taped to my rifle.
Extra info: Have bagged plenty of bunnies with 22 however I’m a venison virgin using factory Federal 150 grain blue box ammo in T3X Superlite 7mm rem mag with gunworks suppressor and 3-15 Nikon Monarch 5 scope.
Don’t know actual speed so reliant on what it says on box, hence using the Federal app as basis for drop chart.
Got zero at 200m so approx. 40-45mm high at 100m.
I’m tending towards Keep It Simple Stupid and just write down drop and click values in 50m increments for altitude of hunt area, 15deg temp, no wind. Seems reasonable?
Have set a self imposed 400m limit. Kind of look like it’s don’t even need to think about it if 250m or less, but need to in range 300-400m
Attachment 156620
What it says on my dial, i cant be arsed counting clicks when its all there in moa
Attachment 156622
Dont bother with writing the clicks down, just use Moa less info and less confusion. Velocity values are always slower than what's on the box, try to borrow a chronograph or, shoot out to you required distances and record the drop and corrections made to get you central on target.
Missed again!Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan_Songhurst
Die ya bugger!
I was aiming for the other one!
Would have hit that if I had more ammo!
Same as Gibo, except I do one column for wind in MOA (10mph) and one for it in inches in case I need to hold for wind.
Moa covers the distance quicker and quarters yr counting until the last inch.
I modify ballistics print-out and reduce size. Then I attach to rifle stock .Attachment 156644
I use double sided rego labels and on top use cellophane sealed with wifeys fingernail polish.
Interesting mix. MOA only because scope says so. Others distance or clicks. Some combos of these. Then there's wind, if I can guesstimate wind in first place. Nothing about temp or altitude, or uphill, downhill. Starting to think it's all too complicated and I should take up duck shooting ;-)
Rangefinders with adaptive ballistic functions (varies with conditions) have nearly negated drop charts (fixed data), but always good to have a backup.
I write what load/ammo I have zeroed the rifle with onto the synthetic stock with a waterproof paint pen.
Wipe off with a solvent later if load changes, simple!
For someone relatively new to the whole hunting scene, this is what I have found works for me so far...
Attachment 156653
Admittedly I have actually only had to dial up for 1 deer out of 6 shot so far this year, a 6pt Red stag shot at 325m in the Ruahines back in October.
I originally had a more complicated version but soon discovered that I had a significant variation in recommended dial up using different ballistic apps without using a chronograph first. I now only use those as I have been able to check physical drop by shooting a fair amount of targets at those distances from 200-600yds. I've also found that my accuracy drops jumping from 500 to 600 out of my 18.5" barrel Tikka .308
I am confident of securing game cleanly at 500 so that's my own self imposed limit for the rifle using that particular ammo at the present
Run the calcs at 3000ft alt ... cos that's where I do most hunting & 1000ft either side seems to seem to make sfwa different to numbers. Most scopes are moa, 200 yd zero's so drop card has ranges in 25 yrd intervals out to predicted terminal velocity of 1800fps. (my self imposed limit) Most cases this get out to 800 yards plus. Like to record drop in inches as well as moa, and wind @ 10mph/90 deg in moa and inches. I like to include the inches as well as moa - it helps me confirm the set up. And for 300 - 350 yards if you dont have time to dial you've got a pretty good idea of hold overs. Practice a bit with hold over on gongs - really does help your confidence.
@Pav am I reading this correctly?Quote:
Originally Posted by Pav
200m is 0.2m drop, or 1 click
300m 0.5m drop, or 2 click
400m 0.9m drop
500m ?
@uk_exile sorry my bad, I didn't make that very clear... my scope is a Weaver Super Slam in 1/4moa with pop up turrets which I rate very highly (particularly as I've been hunting with guys who were all using leupolds with exposed turrets and having major problems with them getting bumped and turning while bush stalking).Quote:
Originally Posted by uk_exile
In my case the M stands for moa and the C being clicks... so basically 200yds = 2 1/4 Moa but on my scope it is easier to pop the turret, turn straight to the desired Moa and then count the clicks.
Eg
200yds - 2.25 moa / 2M + 1C (click)
300yds - 5.5moa / 5M + 2C
Etc
Attachment 156669
This above
I use Zeiss RF with ballistics inbuilt - and have applied ballistics in my phone for others or just running some figures
Backup - app if binos fail; or just get closer
Windplex ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by outdoorlad
Just gone away for Christmas so can’t show a photo of mine sorry but I custom produce my own in microsoft excel using a template I created. Title just covers what load/rifle it’s for so to not get mixed up then I detail what atmospherics the chart is for. I normally choose the altitude i’m expecting to hunt at and then an average of everything else like temp, pressure etc. I then have range increments in 10 yard intervals with the dope to be applied for that range in MOA filled in by getting the info from my app or kestrel.
I obviously only produce a dope chart once I have trued the load so know the data is correct. Then it’s laminated and stuck onto the off side of my rifle butt.
I also range in TBR so no need for angle on the chart. Have an old template I used to use when ranging in line of sight and retrieving the angle.
I use a .270 and dont shoot past 350ish...and dont own a rangefinder....so sight in 2-3" high at hundy....she near enough to dead on at funnily enough 270 yards.... backbone hold gets me out to the 350 Im prepared to shoot to.... DONT AIM OFF THE MEAT was something I was told years back...its worked well enough up to now.
I've got a slightly different way of looking at it. For me, deer don't tend to stand at convenient distances away, so range increments are arbitrary. I've set mine up per half MOA / 2 clicks, and worked out the range for each setting. Range increments decrease the further out you go, which makes sense to me as that reflects the trajectory. I add hold for the closer ranges in case I don't have time to dial. Call me crazy and I don't have hours of range time to back up this method, but I thought I'd chuck it out there.
Attachment 156707
I like the "killing window" that @Norway used in his longe range presentation well worth reading if you can get someone to send you the file. its useful on a drop chart, some ballistic apps have it.
Attachment 156771
Like this
Could I have the file please if anyone is willing to email? Would really appreciate it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuidog
I think I have it in a zip file but someone a bit more techy may have a better formatQuote:
Originally Posted by caberslash
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