260 Improved

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Originally Posted by Toby

Going off my logic load them down and they should be ok

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Use a moderate cartridge to begin with and they're fine

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Originally Posted by Toby

I want to use them cause they are cheap. Might just suck it up and use the partitions

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You will probably get the gmx cheaper.
They do like to go fast tho.

Hi greg who did the work on the action?

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Originally Posted by Toby

I'm not Greg but I'll give my answer which may be wrong but yes and that is why people like them for long range as they are going slower. That's my guess anyway

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Originally Posted by Neckshot

Oh pigs, well in havnt used them on pigs from what ive heard they are trickier to hit down.Do you think the speed is a factor Greg? as in do you think the amax prefer less speed (sub 3000).

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The Amax is well known a fragile target projectile with a thin jacket & plastic tip to increase BC which as a side effect increases expansion.

As projectiles slow down their expansion generally decreases, which is a good thing if they are fragile, this is why the Amax is a NZ favourite for LR hunting, especially the 162.

If the 140 Amax is driven at a more moderate speed, say 6.5x55, it will probably be fine.

When projectiles are launched hard/fast they get "hurt" as they go through the throat, the rougher the throat the more they get damaged to the point where they lose accuracy.

This is accentuated by faster twists, velocity & heat.

A lot of the target bullets have thicker jackets to try to mitigate this which can/does make them less than ideal for hunting, the Lapua Scenars for instance.

Solid copper projectiles, like the Barnes, Etip & GMX don't have this problem, they have other problems instead, like possibly more fouling, although this has been helped with relief grooves in the GMX & Barnes, these also reduce pressure & help with velocity increases, also they need to have a higher impact velocity to maintain acceptable terminal performance.

Fantastic up close but not so much further out at LR.

Generally if you push a projectile faster or slower than it would normally be with the regular calibres it was designed for, there will be "issues".

It is the same old story, there are no free lunches

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Originally Posted by scoped

Hi greg who did the work on the action?

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I lightened the Action & bolt, except fluting.

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Originally Posted by Kiwi Greg

The Amax is well known a fragile target projectile with a thin jacket & plastic tip to increase BC which as a side effect increases expansion.

As projectiles slow down their expansion generally decreases, which is a good thing if they are fragile, this is why the Amax is a NZ favourite for LR hunting, especially the 162.

If the 140 Amax is driven at a more moderate speed, say 6.5x55, it will probably be fine.

When projectiles are launched hard/fast they get "hurt" as they go through the throat, the rougher the throat the more they get damaged to the point where they lose accuracy.

This is accentuated by faster twists, velocity & heat.

A lot of the target bullets have thicker jackets to try to mitigate this which can/does make them less than ideal for hunting, the Lapua Scenars for instance.

Solid copper projectiles, like the Barnes, Etip & GMX don't have this problem, they have other problems instead, like possibly more fouling, although this has been helped with relief grooves in the GMX & Barnes, these also reduce pressure & help with velocity increases, also they need to have a higher impact velocity to maintain acceptable terminal performance.

Fantastic up close but not so much further out at LR.

Generally if you push a projectile faster or slower than it would normally be with the regular calibres it was designed for, there will be "issues".

It is the same old story, there are no free lunches

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Perfect answer right there.

Built a light weight stock for the Model 7 to replace the horrible plastic fantastic.

The stock is pretty light at 500 grams with the Limbsaver recoil pad :)

The rifle as pictured with the VX3 4.5-14 x 40 CDS is 4.96lbs :cool:

http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9cc6bb1d.jpg

http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/...ps26304436.jpg

http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0f7c6cd6.jpg

The wood is quite soft, nowhere near as strong as Carbon Fibre & it will get damaged but such is life, it's there to be used :)

Real light! How does the balance feel with pretty much nothing in the back end?

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Originally Posted by GravelBen

Real light! How does the balance feel with pretty much nothing in the back end?

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I don't find it too bad, was going to take it for a walk tomorrow but this wind looks like its here to stay for a day or two :oh noes:

Woow so the rifle on its own weighs in at just under 4 pounds I,ve got to get one for myself makes the much loved kimber look heavy:XD:

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Originally Posted by Terminator

Woow so the rifle on its own weighs in at just under 4 pounds I,ve got to get one for myself makes the much loved kimber look heavy:XD:

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Opps, just checked the numbers again the bare rifle with Talleys is 4.7lbs, with the scope & Alumina caps it is 5.55lbs, I transposed a couple of number in the converter :oh noes:

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Originally Posted by Kiwi Greg

Opps, just checked the numbers again the bare rifle with Talleys is 4.7lbs, with the scope & Alumina caps it is 5.55lbs, I transposed a couple of number in the converter :oh noes:

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wheew!!! that extra .75 of a pound would come back to haunt you on a real hunt;):ORLY:

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Originally Posted by Neckshot

wheew!!! that extra .75 of a pound would come back to haunt you on a real hunt;):ORLY:

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Only 0.58 extra ;)

Got an even lighter one in the works :)

When you get sick of it give me a call :thumbsup:

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Originally Posted by Kiwi Greg

Only 0.58 extra ;)

Got an even lighter one in the works :)

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Im a mathmaticle genius:Dwho also could rewrite the oxford:ORLY:.whats the rig spitting and do you find it shoots well being quite light out of intrest.